Taylor D
New member
Okay so back it all the way off and then go 3-4 turns clockwise what psi fid it bring yours to by doing this
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Wastegate Setup Tial WG ??
- Thread starter Taylor D
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Okay so back it all the way off and then go 3-4 turns clockwise what psi fid it bring yours to by doing this
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webb06
Active member
Ya start with 3 and see what EBP comes to. Are you on stock chargers? I've got tow power x chargers and I run about 58psi with EBP 84 actual
Charles
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Any of you with schemes involving pressure to the bottom of the gate being necessary to open the valve, you will lose control if you blow, rupture or in any way kill that line. Ask me how I know...
For this reason I recommend using a 4 port solenoid with a super light spring and shifting from full boost to the top port when below your desired boost, to then having some smaller amount of boost to the bottom port as the solenoid shifts the spool, automatically sending the top port to exhaust and bottom port to pressure. This is fail safe, in that losing the top line immediately makes the truck a dog around town. Losing the top line at full song changes absolutely nothing. When you come back down off of power the truck is a dog. Losing the bottom line means your boost will creep on you. Something you can see and the total creep won't be much if your spring is sized soft enough. The little bit of creep potential is worth the snappy response off a shift with full boost swinging from bottom to top, back to bottom again. Loads of valve control with this scheme.
In contrast.... if you run full boost to the bottom port, then regulate pressure to the top port and you blow that reference line to the bottom port get ready for stratospheric boost with compounds... It will jump so fast and so high that the motor is probably already hurt before you notice, unless you're spinning the wee out of small chargers that won't go stupid if left to their own devices.
If you don't have an electronic boost control, which is likely, then simply set the spring soft enough that with no lines connected to the gate the truck will undershoot your desired boost a bit. Then run regulated air to the top port and simply vent the bottom port to hit your target boost. This way it is failSAFE, in that a blown line means the truck lays over and boost returns to the sub-par number you set on spring only... The downside being that it will be a bit softer on shifts to hit back to desired boost. But not by much.
Words from someone who's lifted heads with a blown signal line as configured in a way that relied on a full manifold signal to the bottom port.
On Edit:
Besides... the damn things are much easier to assemble without all the cock diesel springs in them...
For this reason I recommend using a 4 port solenoid with a super light spring and shifting from full boost to the top port when below your desired boost, to then having some smaller amount of boost to the bottom port as the solenoid shifts the spool, automatically sending the top port to exhaust and bottom port to pressure. This is fail safe, in that losing the top line immediately makes the truck a dog around town. Losing the top line at full song changes absolutely nothing. When you come back down off of power the truck is a dog. Losing the bottom line means your boost will creep on you. Something you can see and the total creep won't be much if your spring is sized soft enough. The little bit of creep potential is worth the snappy response off a shift with full boost swinging from bottom to top, back to bottom again. Loads of valve control with this scheme.
In contrast.... if you run full boost to the bottom port, then regulate pressure to the top port and you blow that reference line to the bottom port get ready for stratospheric boost with compounds... It will jump so fast and so high that the motor is probably already hurt before you notice, unless you're spinning the wee out of small chargers that won't go stupid if left to their own devices.
If you don't have an electronic boost control, which is likely, then simply set the spring soft enough that with no lines connected to the gate the truck will undershoot your desired boost a bit. Then run regulated air to the top port and simply vent the bottom port to hit your target boost. This way it is failSAFE, in that a blown line means the truck lays over and boost returns to the sub-par number you set on spring only... The downside being that it will be a bit softer on shifts to hit back to desired boost. But not by much.
Words from someone who's lifted heads with a blown signal line as configured in a way that relied on a full manifold signal to the bottom port.
On Edit:
Besides... the damn things are much easier to assemble without all the cock diesel springs in them...
Last edited:
webb06
Active member
that just went WAY over my head haha:lookaround:
I assumed the gate was opening causing your issues, but guess I should confirm. What was your EBP at 23 psi boost and could you hear the gate open?
sootie
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great post. i have a simple way of achieving much the same. use the strongest spring combination (was roughly 35psi worth testing with shop air on mine), open side port and regulated boost to the top.
that way-if the regulated line fails, 35psi is enough to drive the truck but too low to wreck anything.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
I'm not a fan of unregulated boost to help open the gate. Actually I don't like any boost to help open the gate. Use spring pressure and the drive pressure will open it on its own. Then use regulated air to hold it closed. Done simple and fail proof.
I agree Charles, just a little complicated for most.
Nice to see you back.
I agree Charles, just a little complicated for most.
Nice to see you back.
Taylor D
New member
Taylor D
New member
Thanks for the response lots of knowledge sir
Remember u from the PSN days
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Any updates?
Taylor D
New member
Just getting over being sick since Saturday. Should have a chance tomorrow night to mess with it.
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Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
In regards to the regulated boost, does the regulator just provide a certain percentage of total boost which is always the same percentage regardless of the total boost coming in (ie is the boost coming out of the regulator directly proportional to the boost coming in)?
Another question, would his work? Install a heavy spring into the gate that is rated for whatever the desired max EBP is and don't run any type of boost to either port?
Another question, would his work? Install a heavy spring into the gate that is rated for whatever the desired max EBP is and don't run any type of boost to either port?
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Yes you can run it directly off spring pressure. It's more consistent. All the boost and regulator does is allow for adjustability without spring changes.
Correct me of I'm wrong but I would think the only time you need boost pressure to help open the gate is when gating inbetween stages. In that scenario you have pressure you are trying to relieve into an already pressurized area. With the small drive pressure differential using boost to keep the gate open as the drive pressure evens out would be beneficial right?
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Ideally where is how it works.
For starts let's say you want a max of 60ebp.
Scenario 1: you put the exact amount of springs to when the gate opens mechanically once 60 psi is reached.
(Perfect situation, except no adjustability without changing springs)
Scenario 2: you have too much spring and is makes 80 ebp and then you add boost pressure to help unload the spring pressure and open the gate. Unfortunately once the boost creeps up the more the gate opens and them then the less boost a ebp it makes. So them you add regulated boost back in the top to dial in and counteract some of the boost that's now opening it too soon. You tune it till you are able to repeatably reach 60ebp that you want.
(Most complicated and problematic)
Scenario 3: you have enough spring to where it will make 40 ebp. Then you add regulated boost to the top to hold the gate closed longer. Dial it in till it reaches 60 ebp that you desire. (The most desirable IMO)
With scenario 3 you can adjust ebp and if the adjustment fails it will stall make 40 ebp as a failsafe. Plus it is rock solid perfect every time. No fluctuation as you get with scenario 2 using two boost sources.
I think you just answered my previous question which I didn't word the best. The regulator always puts out the same PSI (no matter how much PSI is coming in to it)? If that is the case and the regulator puts out the same PSI all the time, that makes perfect sense to me (finally) why Senerio 3 would be the best option. Consistent opening pressure based on EBP with adjustability without removing springs.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Regulator only puts our what you set it at. If you regulate to 25psi it doesn't matter it you make 30 or 50 it's will only put out 25. If it is less than 25 input it will make less than 25 out put.
silverpsd_06
New member
Charles lives?? It's been quite awhile since I've seen you post. How is the truck doing or do you have other projects going on?
Thanks Morgan. I appreciate your explanation and this makes perfect sense to me. Senerio 3 it is.
