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Figured I'd update this: Update on truck, it's running well but white smoke is mixed in with the black exhaust smoke at WOT. I did switch from IDP tunes (too smoky for Orange County at WOT) to ******** tunes (why does it asterisk "Geearhead" out, some kind of beef with this forum and them? Are...

Anyone going? PM me if you are, I have a trailer, RZR and a group of people heading out.

Still have these?

Does anyone have one I can rent or buy from them? Do I need H&S tunes for this to work properly (I've seen someone suggest that I do). I can't find this available (back order or sold out) on any site. I can't stand this intermittent TPMS light! What are my alternative options? Buy new sensors...

What did you replace these with? I saw your 0-60 vid, my god...

I know HID's are old news, but it's not any easier finding a good brand online weeding through all the fakes / knock-offs and thought I'd share some research I've done since I've been spending more and more time here. I bought bi-xenon HID's on ebay first (also for $69.99), that was a mistake...

7c34 9h465-a is a Solenoid part # from (I think) previous years, but my 2010 F250 has part# 7c34 9h465-ac for the solenoid. Going to Ford right now to pick it up since I've had a hell of a time finding the "-ac" part # online. Amazon has the "-a" part # online for $65 + free shipping.

Ah thanks, I'm aware of that but my mistake if I said something misleading

renstdi, you literally need NO tools to do this, just a heads up for some motivation!

The video should be more than enough, but if you need more detail read here.

When you engage 4x4 on the dash does the truck not lock in? Well this will determine the problem, might be a quick patch/replacement of a vacuum line, or a solenoid replacement. I made a quick video that will only take a couple minutes for you to figure out what the problem is, and depending on...

Here is the Video. There is a part 2 I'm adding right now.

Ok found the problem! Found a very simple way to test your vacuum lines and your solenoid, all at once and in just a couple minutes! Assuming your vacuum pump is working (you'll hear it turn on as soon as you disconnect a "live" vacuum line), simply disconnect the vacuum line that comes...

Here is an updated video, found on which line the leak is happening -> Video. Will continue to check the vacuum lines from this point back to the hubs...I returned that tool thinking it was going to be no use but now wish I would have kept it. Might be able to use it to test if there are any...

DWhite, dammit...is this the vacuum line you were referring to, because I broke it trying to separate that elbow. It started hissing like crazy so I'd say it was holding vacuum. I'm going to try and repair it...

I think that is going to be my choice Sootie, waiting to see the prices first. Still waiting to hear from Twisted as well...in fact going to send another message to them...

Alright, I think it might be my vacuum pump? Here is a video of the noise it's making. I am having a tough time using this vacuum tool to tell if the pump is operating correctly since it doesn't gauge positive pressure. I'm going to try to feel for the pulse by hand...really need another person...

Thanks ckrueg, I'll keep that in mind, first time I've read that. DWhite, I bought a vacuum tester / brake bleeder to test this out, I don't think it's going to work right because it can only test negative pressure (vacuum) and not positive. Got the truck on jackstands in the garage now. What...

I PM'd him, thanks a lot. Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate you trying to give me the full scoop. I want to know the "catches" to a warranty, whether it's partial to his company or the industry standard...I just wanna know so thanks for that. Swinky, are you saying Morgan's top...

dammit, nobody rents a vacuum pump with gauge anymore, looks like I'm buying one. Just curious, wouldn't the defroster still kick on to indicate a vacuum leak even if it's at the hub or a leak anywhere else in the system?