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Message: [QUOTE="Racer X, post: 473291, member: 1934"] Hmm, just some guesses at what's bad based on some of the symptoms you're describing. Vacuum pump wouldn't shut off - leak somewhere or check valve/release actuator sticking open. Vents only work on defrost - possible no vacuum or low vacuum signal reaching heater controls. By design, some vents work only in defrost mode w/o vacuum as a safety feature. This way the windshield can still be defogged/defrosted for clear visibility in all driving conditions when there isn't enough vacuum to run all controls/accessories. The conversion to manual locking hubs has always been the time tested solution. The first auto hubs came out in 1994 and either wouldn't engage at all, wouldn't stay engaged or didn't hold up very long in use. The driver usually found out after they were already stuck -:cursing: :) and needed a working 4 wheel drive. Those first auto locking hubs were pulled from production eventually, replacements and repair parts went obsolete very quickly afterward. That system was just to avoid getting out to lock hubs, no shift on the fly. If you're determined to keep the factory vacuum hubs/shift on the fly, an EVTM would be a valuable resource to buy for trouble shooting. We and most shops would charge by actual time in hours to repair these. Plus there is no longevity guarantee or repair warranty for how long they will work if parts of the system are obsolete from the OEM's. There maybe whatever warranty a guy like Guzzle would offer on the gaskets etc. he sells, should they leak within a certain time period. If offered, that's on the parts only. So it goes whenever any components or system on anything becomes obsolete, was trouble prone when new or is impractical to fix as it was made. Then it's either bear the cost and risk of repair or go with the aftermarket solution that works best to solve the problem long term. Good Luck - :toast: :thumbup: [/QUOTE]