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Message: [QUOTE="MorganY, post: 1003748, member: 3115"] I thought this may be of some help, since I haven't seen any actual repairs posted. Spoke to a few of you about this to see if you had seen this before. 2012 6.7 tuned and deleted with 56,000 miles was eating a little bit of coolant from the primary system only, and would steam intermittently at idle when cold for a few seconds. This eliminated the intercooler as a possible concern. Smelled like fuel. Also had an oil leak from the turbo oil fitting at the top. Pressure tested the system for external leaks, held 15psi for 2 hours without a drop. Visual inspection found some dry coolant trails throughout the oil trails on the back of the bell housing. Looked at the weep hole at the water pump, turbo outlet coolant fitting and front cover for possible leaks and found nothing. No surprise being that it held pressure. Then found this and initially thought it was oil, didn't taste sweet. Time to pull the charger to see if it is pre or post turbo. [ATTACH=full]136550[/ATTACH] Being that they are watercooled units, I wanted to narrow out the small chance of the turbo leaking internally from the center section and blowing out of the exhaust. [ATTACH=full]136551[/ATTACH] Found my answer. Wet inlet with coolant on the drivers side turbo inlet. Moving into a pre turbo problem. Got the approval to pull the cab and begin getting the heads off. [ATTACH=full]136552[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]136553[/ATTACH] At this point it was either a cracked wall, or head. [ATTACH=full]136554[/ATTACH] Drivers side. Coolant sitting in the intake port explaining the intermittent startup with steam. Depending on the valve position of that cylinder after the engine was turned off. [ATTACH=full]136555[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]136556[/ATTACH] (Note: truck is running spartan tuning) [ATTACH=full]136557[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]136558[/ATTACH] Ford was on international backorder for turbos (He wanted to replace it while it was apart) so No limit expedited a brand new one immediately. Elite shipped out a set of studs immediately as well. [ATTACH=full]136559[/ATTACH] Properly cleaned deck. Note you do not remove the block stains. [ATTACH=full]136560[/ATTACH] New heads going on. [ATTACH=full]136561[/ATTACH] Torquing the studs once to 50ft/lbs, loosen, another time to 50ft/lbs, loosen, and again to 50 ft/lbs, then 85ft/lbs, then 125ft/lbs. Freshly calibrated Snap On TW. [URL=http://s810.photobucket.com/user/hatrick5/media/20140522_214427_zpsuyy2djay.jpg.html][IMG]http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz29/hatrick5/20140522_214427_zpsuyy2djay.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Checking the valve train after install. This video does a good job of showing how the spray bars work, and their oil path. [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tvYKWojvrs&list=UU2wI4PYIqupCcV-shWZvRTw&feature=share[/url] [ATTACH=full]136562[/ATTACH] All back together, problem solved. At the very least, it is a good read. Haven't seen or heard of a cracked head until this point, let alone from an intake passage. Ran it by Morgan and Tadd to make sure I wasn't crazy. Something else, these heads from Ford run around $690 a piece list price. Pretty good price considering what 6.0/6.4 heads run. [/QUOTE]