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Message: [QUOTE="The Butcher, post: 1185324, member: 17789"] You just need to set up your trailer and hitch for the right height. My 20' deck over has a bulldog coupler that I can raise or lower on it by changing the location where it is bolted. I moved it up when I raised the back with the traction blocks, and I have the most drop I can get for a 20K rating (I think it is about 4"). I towed 12K on it a couple of weeks ago and it rode great. The true test is going to be towing a full-size truck on it for 500 miles which I'll do in about a month, but I'm going to load it up next week and see how it does with some freeway driving just to make sure I've got it set up right. Buddy of mine brought back a Defender 90 on it last weekend from New Orleans behind his dually with the Carli pin top 4.5" and 37s, and he said it was fine. He did say he thought the trailer was much heavier dry than the claimed 3,500lbs. I think he just used to towing his 50' boat trailer, so the smaller trailer moved around more and he wasn't liking that. If you get your trailer leveled out right by matching your hitch and trailer height you'll be fine. I did swap out my factory hitch for 20K unit, and I have a 20K mount and ball as well. Not that it matters for road manners, but at least I'm legal as long as I keep it below the max of the trailer (15K). All of that being said, if you are for sure going to run 37s (and not 38s), then get the Icon 7", but get a set of blocks to replace the factory one. I think the factory block is 1-7/8", and you need at least an inch and half, but probably 2" more than factory. I got traction blocks (4.5" total height), but you don't have to go that route. I think my truck is actually more level now even after adding 2", but at first I thought it was maybe ass high. If you don't get a taller block your ass is going to be dragging big time when you hook up your trailer. [/QUOTE]