Reply to thread

Message: [QUOTE="Black 02, post: 1015599, member: 6916"] So, without getting into a big drama filled ordeal, most who know me know that I've been in the process of having an engine built for my truck that had all the goodies I'd ever want. Basically, it's been a nightmare. It's taken far far far too long and I've had nothing but problems with the build and it's only been ran for a few minutes. That being said. Last weekend I got the engine in the truck and ran it. Only ran for about 30 min and puked a rear freeze plug. Improper install. It was barely drove in. Got everything back together and fired it up. Ran great. Took it for about a 5 mile drive. Up to operating temps. Good oil pressure. Came back, installed the hood and got ready to go to a family reunion about 30 miles away. Figured it would be a good time to drive and work on breaking it in. Had the truck idling in the driveway for about 5 min while I changed clothes. Came back out and the oil pressure gauge was at 0 and the "CHECK GAUGE" light was on. If you reved it up, it would register, then it would fall at idle. I pulled it back in the shop and turned it off. Turned back on and the gauge was working again. Free revved it to about 2700 RPM and back to idle and the gauge would drop then popped back to normal. I'm told the factory gauge is basically a glorified idiot light. Went to NAPA and got a new sending unit and a cheap mechanical gauge to plumb into the sending unit port for a temporary check. Swapped sending units and the gauge wouldn't register ever. Might have been the wrong one. Plumbed in the mechanical gauge on the top of the HPOP reservoir, there was like 2-5 PSI when the oil was hot. Rev it up to 2000 RPM and it had like 45 PSI. Being pissed off, I went in the house for awhile to cool down. Went back out and plumbed the gauge in by the oil filter housing. Engine was cold then. Fired it up Idle pressure was like 25-30 PSI cold and then as it warmed up, it kept falling to down around 5 PSI at an idle when warm. When the truck was fully warm, I revved it to 2000 RPM and the hot oil pressure was about 55-60 PSI at the filter. I put the ford sending unit back in and the gauge would drop to nothing when the engine was fully warm. Rev it slightly and the light would go off and the gauge would register. Truck doesn't die. Runs pretty well. It kind of romps a little when you come down to idle after revving it up on the "modified stock" tune of DP. I'm thinking the romps are a tuning issue. Mailed tunes can be difficult with all the mods I've done. Nothing to do with this issue though. Mods: Carillo Rods Swamps Girdle Coated and Machined Dyno Proven Pistons 350/200 FFD Injectors. Swamps IDM Twin 15 Degree Terminator Pumps Partial Block Fill DP Tuning Melling LPOP Ported Heads DI Headers Riff Raff Reservoir Spacer Irate Comp Fuel with Irate T4 and S468 I know most of that stuff doesn't have implications on oil pressure, but I'm just giving all the info. As you can see, I've spent too much money to walk away now, but I literally am ready to take it to the dealership and walk away. Too much heartache with this thing. Every time I have something good happen, something bad follows it up. :shrug: Anyone have any advice on the oil pressure? What's my next step? It's obviously pumping oil because it keeps the HPOP supplied. Truck never dies. 60 PSI when hot at 2000 RPM seems good for oil pressure. Very little haze comes out of the oil fill tube for blowby even with it being only a 60 min old engine. Any help is truly appreciated. Thanks, Ryan [/QUOTE]