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Message: [QUOTE="2000wa250, post: 648074, member: 3399"] Out of the three times I've swapped injectors in my truck, and 2 other times in other trucks, only once did I have an issue. It was the first swap, and I had pulled the PCM to install the chip. Cranked and cranked, hooked up a buddies tow truck to the batteries and cranked and cranked, no joy. Double and triple checked all electrical connections, pulled valve covers and checked everything, had oil in the res. Still nothing. Bought AE and hooked it up and tried to run a buzz test and it came back as unable to communicate with the IDM. Turns out when I put the PCM back in, I had bent 4 of the pins. 2 werent connected to anything, but the other 2 were controlling the IDM and the IPR. Straightened and pulled the pins back out, cranked it once and it fired right up like there hadnt been a single thing done to it. All the other swaps started immediately, which I believe is because after putting the injectors in, I crank it over by hand a few times, then bump the starter for about 5-10 seconds usually 4 times to not only clear the cylinders, but also to prime the entire system. Works every time. Just did mine yesterday, and after sitting with no injectors in it for 2 weeks and the system completely open, it fired up within 5 seconds of turning the key. You have an issue somewhere, and its most likely something you touched or worked on while you were in there. You said you have a chip, did you just install it? Did you remove the PCM to install it? If you did my money's on you either having a loose connector to the PCM, a loose 52 pin connector, or bent/pushed in pins on the PCM. Like Joe said, these things are pretty basic as far as starting goes. Oil pressure, voltage, fuel, and air. If its cranking and sounding normal, you should have enough RPM to trigger the IDM to fire, if your voltage while cranking isnt dropping below 10.5 you have enough voltage to fire the injectors, and if you have oil in the res, chances are you are generating enough pressure for the PCM to send the fire signal. If you have down time, try cracking one of the plugs in the oil rail. If you do this and oil starts seeping out, you have oil pressure in the rails. DO NOT TRY THIS WHILE CRANKING UNLESS YOU WANT TO ADD A COAT OF RUST PREVENTION TO ANYTHING WITHIN 10 FEET OF YOUR MOTOR. Like said, you really should get an AE or scangauge hooked up to it while cranking to verify that you are building pressure. One more thing....are all the lights on the dash coming on and turning off normally? Do you have a no start position on your TS chip? If so which position is it? Have you tried starting it without the chip? [/QUOTE]