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Message: [QUOTE="TARM, post: 424612, member: 578"] This is of course an after thought and basically me just bitching. Ford could have actually for the start designed a tank better for hard use. These are work trucks and 4x4. They should work at decent angles even with a 1/4 down to 1/8 tank. The tanks (in my mind all tanks) should have a sump area that the pick up tube drops into. An area of 6" in diameter and maybe 2-4" deep. That is the real fix for any PU issues. Next idea but I doubt most would do this as they thing sumps are so much better and lets face it they are simple and now you do not have to drop the tank if you do not want to but IMO its a safer choice and takes care negatives a sump has and has its benefits as well. Install a sump that has no ports or plug them. Then install the PU so it goes down into the sump. Obviously this is a bit costly. When you install the larger PU tube or for that matter any of the PU upgrade kits (hutch mod) you are doing away with the mixing valve. Doesn't this mixe returned fuel with fresh fuel from the tank? So if the Pu was uncovered for a second the PU would still have fuel coming into the PU via the mixing valve would it not? Unless I have this wrong I would say this would be the issue with anyone that does a "hutch" mod or does on the tank kits. Thru the process of rectifying one issue you possibly cause another it seems to me. After all the fuel coming back from a stock dead head system is no heated like that which comes back when you do a full RR. The chamber would likely create a flow issue as well given its port sizes. Regardless we end up with an issue. There is a fairly easy solution and could be mounted just like a fuel filter. A sealed container. Nothing big maybe a quart at most is all that would be needed. What it would become is one large mixing chamber. It would also do a decent job of sep vapor and free air as well. You would put in inline with both fuel lines the outlet and return side. It would be a zero pressure surge tank/mixing chamber. Fuel from the tank would enter it as would fuel returning from the engine. Then fuel would return from it to the tank as well as continue on to the fuel filters then pump and onto the engine. If the pu was uncovered you would have a full quart or what ever size you made it full of fuel there to keep fueling the pump and engine until the pu was covered again. We are talking a second or two here but it could handle longer. As only the fuel the engine actually used or consumed would be missing. The rest would continue back to that container. Now something I had considered doing before I went with my custom surge tank that allowed my Bosch 044 pump to be installed in it was using a filter base and filter as a surge tank/filter. You could also make it a dedicated surge tank only by using a empty filter body (no media). Let me explain: Many of the fuel filter bases have 4 ports do them now? 2 inlets and 2 outlets. I would have to check to be sure but I do not see why you could not simple make it do double duty. It would then filter fuel coming and going. Normally would plug the one inlet and one outlet. Instead take your return line and cut it. Put the hose coming from the engine and hook it up to the extra inlet port. Then take the hose length that is going on to the tank and hook that to the outlet port. Now what you have is a filter/surge tank. You want a filter that has a flow rate 2x what your pump flows as it will have the fuel going both ways. To take that one step further I could likely modify the filter head so that it would act as a vapor air separator that functions the exact same way a FASS sep does. If you do some thinking and understand how the surge tank works you can see what a big help it would be to fix many of the fuel issues people are having. It could also be done cheap. Under $50 HELL OF ALOT CHEAPER THAN A SUMP. You also will not be having a big hole cut in your tank. But alas you will have to drop your tank to do the PU so that may stop some LOL [/QUOTE]