Arp head studs

Tncoalroller88

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Just purchased a set of brand new arp studs for an awesome deal and was reading the stud install thread in the library and was wanting to clear up something about it.. When rocking the motor to do the back studs do you take both motor mounts completely loose or just take loose the side that you are working on or the oposite side your working on? i know its prob a dumb question but im asking any way.. Also i should just go ahead and re oring my injectors too right? Even tho injectors are only bout 2 months old.
 
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Just purchased a set of brand new arp studs for an awesome deal and was reading the stud install thread in the library and was wanting to clear up something about it.. When rocking the motor to do the back studs do you take both motor mounts completely loose or just take loose the side that you are working on or the oposite side your working on? i know its prob a dumb question but im asking any way.. Also i should just go ahead and re oring my injectors too right? Even tho injectors are only bout 2 months old.

Are you getting new head gaskets as well?
As for the injectors, if it were my truck I would re-Oring them. Every time we touch them, they get re-Oringed. Just nice insurance.
 
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no im going to be doing it in truck so not removing the heads just replacing old bolts with new studs

Roger.
Well If you want it easy. You can unbolt the cab and lift it 3-4 inches and you will make it a whole lot easier on you instead of having to jack your motor around. And constantly be on the ground and in the engine bay, back to the ground, haha.
Good luck! Feel free to call us if you have any questions or need some guidance.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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Just loosen one side of the engine at a time... jacking the engine would be a LOT less of a headach...

And make shore you take one stud out then replace it before you move on to the next one...
 
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Everyone is going to have there "Easier" ways. IMO it takes no time at all to unbolt the cab and bring it up 3-4" and you have more room.
Or you can unbolt motor mounts and jack the motor around.
7.3's have twice the room, and doing a head stud job jacking the motor around is a pain, at least I think.
Just trying to help. Best of luck to witch ever you decide to do.
 

V-Ref

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The aft two bolts on the pax side are the only ones that I had a conflict with on my truck. Loosen both motor mounts, remove the nut completely on the side you need to raise. Loosen tranny crossmember. Lift using a floor jack, pushing a 2x6 against the exhaust manifold. That ought to do it. Nothing wrong with doing orings again, but if nothing is wrong now....
 

Diezel Dawg

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If you have a couple people helping you out, jacking the motor isn't that bad. That's how I.did my headstuds. If you have never unbolted the cab, I would think it would be a little more difficult, but if you have.done it several times, then yes it would be easier. Pick your way and go.with it.

Sent from my EVO 3D on the East Side
 

OSCS

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dont touch the cab.. you can do studs all by yourself by jacking up the motor. I never removed the AC box i never removed the AC compressor.. only thing i took off was the alternator bracket. It's easy just take your time.
 

OSCS

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alright man ill sure give it my best shot on doing it rocking the motor.. i sure hope i dont have to take the dang ac box off either im sure thats a headache lol

honestly the more i think about it.. I never even took the alternator bracket off. I only removed that to install my RR. I know your nervous i was too but im telling you its easy man youll look back at it afterwards and laugh..

those rear most bolts will give you trouble.. but just keep jacking the motor up. I had trouble with my trans dip stick bending and getting in the way.. I losened the bolt holding it to the trans and it was much easier for me.
 

Tncoalroller88

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honestly the more i think about it.. I never even took the alternator bracket off. I only removed that to install my RR. I know your nervous i was too but im telling you its easy man youll look back at it afterwards and laugh..

those rear most bolts will give you trouble.. but just keep jacking the motor up. I had trouble with my trans dip stick bending and getting in the way.. I losened the bolt holding it to the trans and it was much easier for me.

Hell ya man im nervous as crap about doing this, even tho iv already done the injectors and valve springs i still dont wanna mess anything up while doing this little job lol.. But as for a tranny dip stick getting in the way that wont be a prob as the old girl is a six speed lol.. hopefully the install goes smoothly.
 

OSCS

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Hell ya man im nervous as crap about doing this, even tho iv already done the injectors and valve springs i still dont wanna mess anything up while doing this little job lol.. But as for a tranny dip stick getting in the way that wont be a prob as the old girl is a six speed lol.. hopefully the install goes smoothly.


I was nervous as hell! Only time i had cracked a valve cover before that was to see what was inside lol! But it's strait forward, Old One comes out the new stud goes in. Literally just follow the instructions step by step and you'll be good. I'll PM you my cell incase you have any questions during the install. I had a fellow member do the same for me and it was a huge help.
 

Tncoalroller88

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I was nervous as hell! Only time i had cracked a valve cover before that was to see what was inside lol! But it's strait forward, Old One comes out the new stud goes in. Literally just follow the instructions step by step and you'll be good. I'll PM you my cell incase you have any questions during the install. I had a fellow member do the same for me and it was a huge help.

alright man thats would be awesome i really appreciate that.
 

Black 02

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Jack the engine up.

Remove both nuts on the motor mount on the side you are working on. Loosen the trans mount bolts so the tranny can roll. Place a block under the manifold and jack it up. Jack it up till the bellhousing almost hits the firewall. Go slow to and just watch to make sure nothing is binding too hard.

Just make sure you get the engine back down in the mount locations. You will be able to bolt the engine to the frame in a "rolled" condition. You may have to jack on one side or the other for the engine to drop all the way down in the mount slots. You'll see what I'm talking about when you dive into it. It's really easy. I also did it by myself.
 

TARM

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Make sure to do the proper tq sequence after you get them all swapped in and to stock bolt tq spec amount. Do not exceed the TQ amount listed for the ARPs IIRC 125ftlb. Run the engine and let it get good and warmed up and then go back thru and do a hot retq. Take your time and enjoy wrenching on your truck why you are at it.
 

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