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Message: [QUOTE="MAFoElffen, post: 956296, member: 14847"] I have AE on my laptop and Car Gauge Pro on my Android phone. On both I can run CCT's and a Buzz test. That code is usually either a bad injector coil or injector wiring. The wiring is usually the connectors under the valve covers, a corroded terminal at the outside of the vavle cover connector or a bad valve cover gasket (the connectors/wires go through them). You can check all that doing that resistance check with a VOM at the IDM connector: [url]https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gbreman.com%2Ftechbulletin_103.html&ei=6Y46U-PTDaby2QW17IFA&usg=AFQjCNEtdOpGefyejf-zZofSgZyks-dMJg&bvm=bv.63934634,d.aWc[/url] What is a little odd, is those codes usually go in adjacent pairs, for instance on the same side of the motor.. Like 1&3, 5&7, 2&4 or 6&8. But yours is on the third back on the passenger side (#5) and the furthest back on the driver's side (#8)... Any ways, that code says there is an open in the circuits for those two injectors. I doubt is is a diode in the IDM. If one of those goes, you usually lose a whole side and you would be complaining that it is very hard to start and runs with no power. If an injector coil is out of range (shorted or too much resistance) most people change out the injector. I usually just pop the coil off and change them out. You can confirm that it's bad and that it will function again by swapping a known good one on it (from another cyl.) and see if it comes back up. You should be able to pick a AA coil up at an injection shop for about $50 new, $20 used (tested). Lot's less than $240 for a replacement injector at Ford or $180 OEM. [/QUOTE]