Bunch of stuff.

Brad.S.19

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
580
Reaction score
0
Location
Maine
Well failed inspection need parts and ideas, I am just doing one thread this time.

-Diamond Eye 4" TBE T-409 W/ muff
-Firestone airbags, spring plates and u-bolts
-Steering stabilizers
-Poss wheel tire set up if I bent the wheel(s) I will need some LOL
-Head Lights and third brake
-Water In fuel every three days drain it need a fix or better solution.
-EBPS sensor and tube
-Coolant filter and Oil drain plug
-Guages and pod

I would like to support as many vendors as possible on here if you can PM me prices and shipping/times that would be greatly appreciated.
 

A/Ox4

New member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Failed what, a safety inspection? What part did you fail?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

TARM

New member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
1
Your Post is sort of vague. You have a list of somethings a number of which do not have to do with, at least, saftey inspections. Give us a list of the specific things that failed.

As for your list:


-Diamond Eye 4" TBE T-409 W/ muff: I got mine from KT Performance ( not sure if they are or were a vendor on here ever) I think Swamps carries the Diamond Eye line. Do not think Dennis does at Stictly does so you will need to see on that.

-Firestone airbags, spring plates and u-bolts: Why do you need air bags? Leaf springs sagging under light load or is this for heavy towing leveling. If its the prior I suggest getting some salvage yard leaf springs off another 250/350. If not do some searches on the various vendors sites. IF you do end up needing them I would say talk to Cary @ CT about it while you are discussing the steering stablizers

-Steering stabilizers: I got a number of my suspension parts such as those form Cary@ CT Performance. Great CS was my personal experience.

-Poss wheel tire set up if I bent the wheel(s) I will need some

-Head Lights and third brake : IMO salvage yard will be cheapest unless you are looking for aftermarket look

-Water In fuel every three days drain it need a fix or better solution.: Drain you tank if you are getting that much water in your current tank of fuel. Water does not just show up unless its a very old tank of fuel with a open cap. It comes from the filling station tank being contaminated or very old. If you have gone thru a few tanks then I suggest you switch filling stations. Also change your fuel filter with every oil change if you are using the standard factory fuel bowl setup is my recommendation i.e every 5K Mail order Donaldson filters if you can nto get that brand locally. They are by far the best in terms of micro rating and water sep. If not second is the factory Racor brand. Stay away from all NAPA and WIX

Donaldson P550437
Racor PFF4596


-EBPS sensor and tube: For the tube and a nice cover plate http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2674-driven-diesel-hpop-gear-access-cover-kit.aspx For the sensor I strongly recommend only Ford or IH parts for all sensors and electronics on this engines such as UVCH ICP IPR etc.. Same for this sensor although it a bit less critical over all.

-Coolant filter: Either the add on filter kit from Diesel site or if the water pump is going take care of two in and one with less crap under the hood and get their IH water pump conversion kit which is about the same price as a factory water pump and the filter kit. All can be found on this page http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfiltration.aspx

-Oil drain plug: standard plug Auto parts store or get the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain our engine part number is I believe F-111

-Gauges and pod : If you can afford it and want good accurate readings its hard to go wrong with ISSO Pro. I would shoot Joey (Screenname: CSIPSD) a PM if you have questions etc as he is the resident expert on them and I can not tell you how helpful he had been to me as I get my IIsso Pro Performax gauges and system all setup. Otherwise autometer and you will have to check with which vendor has what you want and who you go with.
 
Last edited:

Brad.S.19

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
580
Reaction score
0
Location
Maine
Your Post is sort of vague. You have a list of somethings a number of which do not have to do with, at least, saftey inspections. Give us a list of the specific things that failed.

As for your list:


-Diamond Eye 4" TBE T-409 W/ muff: I got mine from KT Performance ( not sure if they are or were a vendor on here ever) I think Swamps carries the Diamond Eye line. Do not think Dennis does at Stictly does so you will need to see on that.

-Firestone airbags, spring plates and u-bolts: Why do you need air bags? Leaf springs sagging under light load or is this for heavy towing leveling. If its the prior I suggest getting some salvage yard leaf springs off another 250/350. If not do some searches on the various vendors sites. IF you do end up needing them I would say talk to Cary @ CT about it while you are discussing the steering stablizers

-Steering stabilizers: I got a number of my suspension parts such as those form Cary@ CT Performance. Great CS was my personal experience.

-Poss wheel tire set up if I bent the wheel(s) I will need some

-Head Lights and third brake : IMO salvage yard will be cheapest unless you are looking for aftermarket look

-Water In fuel every three days drain it need a fix or better solution.: Drain you tank if you are getting that much water in your current tank of fuel. Water does not just show up unless its a very old tank of fuel with a open cap. It comes from the filling station tank being contaminated or very old. If you have gone thru a few tanks then I suggest you switch filling stations. Also change your fuel filter with every oil change if you are using the standard factory fuel bowl setup is my recommendation i.e every 5K Mail order Donaldson filters if you can nto get that brand locally. They are by far the best in terms of micro rating and water sep. If not second is the factory Racor brand. Stay away from all NAPA and WIX

Donaldson P550437
Racor PFF4596


-EBPS sensor and tube: For the tube and a nice cover plate http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2674-driven-diesel-hpop-gear-access-cover-kit.aspx For the sensor I strongly recommend only Ford or IH parts for all sensors and electronics on this engines such as UVCH ICP IPR etc.. Same for this sensor although it a bit less critical over all.

-Coolant filter: Either the add on filter kit from Diesel site or if the water pump is going take care of two in and one with less crap under the hood and get their IH water pump conversion kit which is about the same price as a factory water pump and the filter kit. All can be found on this page http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfiltration.aspx

-Oil drain plug: standard plug Auto parts store or get the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain our engine part number is I believe F-111

-Gauges and pod : If you can afford it and want good accurate readings its hard to go wrong with ISSO Pro. I would shoot Joey (Screenname: CSIPSD) a PM if you have questions etc as he is the resident expert on them and I can not tell you how helpful he had been to me as I get my IIsso Pro Performax gauges and system all setup. Otherwise autometer and you will have to check with which vendor has what you want and who you go with.

My bump stops are to short for state standards it is either timbrens or air bags my current ones are trashed.

Hit two utility ditches in the road going 40 think I tore some stuff up getting a second opinion on monday. I am not the only one long story don't ask a fellow biker almost went down too.

For the fuel I need new filters and all got a really bad tank of fuel added type F atf drain it every three days.

headlights rock auto has factory for 20 bucks a piece and 04 harley for 90
 

TARM

New member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
1
Nope but if its the stock fuel bowl you have my recommendations. Unless its relabled Donaldson or Racor....... But if you want to find out details for your own edification look up the filtering perf spec. The micron rating. You want 95% rating. If you see nominal that means 50%. Absolute is alwayz in the mid to high 90s. Then look at the mic for that. Take napa/wix they have a nominal rating of 14 mic. Ghat means with each pass thru the cilter only 1/2 the partical 14 mic get trapped. IH/Ford spec is 7mic 92% IIRC or basically considered the absolute rating once in the 90s. That is what the Racor does. IMHO anything lower is unacceptabke and really if you want long life of your barrel and plunggers in the inj you want better. Donaldson is 5mic absolute. Just consider that with Napa/Wix @14mic nominal that would likely put them in the mid 20 mic for absolute. My oil filter has better performance @15 mic and think how dirty oil grts when you change it. Imagine what cohld get thru one of those.

I bazi ay only use and recommend two filter companies for all filters Donaldson and Luberfiner. The latter is the commercial outlet for Champion. IMO based on the perf specs of theose companies filters they rep the best in the industry.

Your leaf springs the issue is you do not meet the min clearance to the bumpstop? If that is the case you n shojld replace the springs not throw air bags in there. You can get good used springs for 200 if not less. I have a set of Fronts right now in my shop I picked up for $175 had 30k on them. Point is you should look around. You ould also add a leaf to your current leaf pack a d that would be the cheapest way to handle it.

If your headlights are juzt all oxidizex and cloudy you can usex polishing compound or wet sand them and get them perfectly clear. I have done this on numerous vehicles for people. Takes about 1hr to do the set.
 

Jomax

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
8,576
Reaction score
9
Location
Arizona
If this is for commercial inspection, can you show us the inspection form? Is your exhausr rotted out?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

Brad.S.19

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
580
Reaction score
0
Location
Maine
The inspection is for passenger vehicle safety less than 10,001 GVWR I am tagged 8,800 and my muffler split/pin holes so I pulled it off put a turn down on instead. The suspension specs are very convoluted how it is written I have 6+1 in the rear and T codes in the front. I currently have to much clearance between my bump stop and the bump stop tang very stupid I know yet it has the stock block. It is sitting with 3" of rake right now I am more concerned about the front.

Tarm where is a good location to get the filters I cannot find them locally?
 

TARM

New member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
1
The inspection is for passenger vehicle safety less than 10,001 GVWR I am tagged 8,800 and my muffler split/pin holes so I pulled it off put a turn down on instead. The suspension specs are very convoluted how it is written I have 6+1 in the rear and T codes in the front. I currently have to much clearance between my bump stop and the bump stop tang very stupid I know yet it has the stock block. It is sitting with 3" of rake right now I am more concerned about the front.

Tarm where is a good location to get the filters I cannot find them locally?

Well that sucks.

That is crazy. Again I do not understand this. You are saying that you have too much room meaning the leaf spring is holding the vehcile to high or the bump stop itself is too short correct? You have a 99-03 F-250 7.3 correct??

Here are the leaf spring ratings as I know them:

R = 1430
S = 1630
T = 1830
U = 2030
V = 2230
W = 2430
X = 2630

Most F250/F350 have V codes some W codes and those with factory snow plow kit X codes. You have T codes which are lower rated. That would mean it would still lower and the distance would be shorter. They are all 2 leaf packs from what I recall. Something is not adding up.

I would be getting someone else to inspect it after I correct the real issues.

Still this just sounds crazy; so the state has an actually maximum allowable total compression travel of the front suspension for ALL passenger rated vehicles regardless of make or model? Hmmmm I wonder what the Raptors distance is for total compression. Not to mention if that with those kind of specs a person with a factory plow setup with the plow off would likely fail even though its 100% factory.

If you had to change something I would just add a block under the bump stop to make up the difference that is if another inspection place stated the same BS.

Are you tagged in Maine or New Hampshire as you have both on your location? No matter I will check both as I want to see this for myself. This sounds more like something I would expect from California or France.

I looked thru the Maine inspection manual and there is nothing at all about failure for any suspension travel distances or anything like this. Also for anything they do look at the revision states to go with factory specs and tolerances. NH as well has no where in the list of things specific did it mention that spec. The fact they allow vehicle specific aftermarket suspension kits would make this crazy to begin with.

You can look for yourself maybe I missed it: Here is Maine: http://www.maine.gov/dps/msp/licenses/documents/Rulerevision20128-29-13.pdf
NH: http://65.82.88.69/Gordon-Darby_New_Hampshire/newhampshire.htm

I know when I take my vehicles in but this is Va its a 5-10 min deal. Most of the time is spent pulling the wheels off to check brakes more so if their are drums. Love to watch them struggle with some worn drums LOL. But I do know it can vary wildly between places and the inspector. Once you get the stuff that is clearly needed such as holes in the exhaust and oxidized headlights I would take it somewhere else. Also maybe take a trip up to Ford and see if you have the proper bumpstops. Again this all hinges on that these are spec leaf springs.


I know this truck has been a headache for you as of late from your posts so I hope you get this all straighten out.
 

A/Ox4

New member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
You're state sounds like a sucky one...

You still haven't really told us everything that you failed, just parts you wanted to buy.

And FYI TARM, California doesn't give a crap when it comes to safety inspections on personal vehicles. So much so that we don't even have them:) I'll take my smog check every 2 years to avoid this nonsense. Easy smog check to pass anyway. Heck, half of California isnt even required to smog check ever.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

Arisley

Moderator
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
9,385
Reaction score
31
Location
Arlington, Texas
They pull wheels to check brakes in VA. Here in TX, they just accelerate and hit the brakes, if it stops in a certain distance with no hard pull or ugly sounds, you pass.

Forgot and left my chip in the high tune once. When the guy accelerated, he got a good bit sideways. You should have seen the look on his face.
 

ToMang07

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
6,566
Reaction score
178
Location
Mainah!
Maine they check brake and steering components, lights/mirrors/glass. As long as the suspension isn't broken or illegal(stacked blocks, etc) they really just check shocks. The only really stupid thing they do is body rust. If there is a hole, you fail. It's ***kin stupid. Generally they only really check the important stuff. Every inspection I have ever had took less than 10 minutes.

Brad....can you list specifically what they failed you for? I don't see them failing you for having air bags, as they are aftermarket parts. Even if they did, why not just remove them since they are broken anyway?

And have you gone to any other shops? I know a place in Windham that is pretty lenient, and if you need a muffler they are and exhaust shop.
 

Brad.S.19

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
580
Reaction score
0
Location
Maine
Maine they check brake and steering components, lights/mirrors/glass. As long as the suspension isn't broken or illegal(stacked blocks, etc) they really just check shocks. The only really stupid thing they do is body rust. If there is a hole, you fail. It's ***kin stupid. Generally they only really check the important stuff. Every inspection I have ever had took less than 10 minutes.

Brad....can you list specifically what they failed you for? I don't see them failing you for having air bags, as they are aftermarket parts. Even if they did, why not just remove them since they are broken anyway?

And have you gone to any other shops? I know a place in Windham that is pretty lenient, and if you need a muffler they are and exhaust shop.

Exhaust No muffler and rear suspension needs spring helpers.
Headlights thats It
 

ToMang07

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
6,566
Reaction score
178
Location
Mainah!
rear suspension needs spring helpers.

As already mentioned, try the DIY kit for the headlights, I have used it a couple times with great results. (Just follow directions.)

Not sure what you mean by "rear helpers." You talking about overload springs? Bump stops? The keepers? I don't remember seeing anything missing/broke on your truck on the springs....but I only looked at the drivers side, lol
 

Brad.S.19

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
580
Reaction score
0
Location
Maine

As already mentioned, try the DIY kit for the headlights, I have used it a couple times with great results. (Just follow directions.)

Not sure what you mean by "rear helpers." You talking about overload springs? Bump stops? The keepers? I don't remember seeing anything missing/broke on your truck on the springs....but I only looked at the drivers side, lol

HAHA I know right the rear helpers mean new air bags or timbrens for the rear I have no idea why I may just remove them now and call it good spend the money else where. Besides I can just use extended bump stops if need be.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Top