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Message: [QUOTE="TyCorr, post: 1009282, member: 1451"] To clear this up, the grey bottle of power services additive in a grey (its actually silver) bottle contains ZERO cold weather protection and will not preclude your diesel from gelling up. Not one bit. Ive never had my fuel gel when I was doing what I should be. I have when I stop and get fuel just any old place. I used to carry 90 different bottles of crap, buy fuel wherever, and constantly fight things. First and foremost, find a place that has good fuel. Run a tank and see what you think. If the truck gets piss poor mileage, move on. If you find water in your fuel water seperator, dont go back. Common sense really. I have access to a good supply of diesel stations. Most of them have crappy fuel. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Anyway, do your research on this step and the rest is easy ***kin cheese. As already stated, get new gp's, get new uvch, and a relay for the gp's. Install them as instructed. Pretty straightforward. If your injectors are old or need new orings, none of this other maintenance is going to help. Check your battery cables. The terminals are obvious but check the cable. Corrosion at either end usually means the cable is waxed. Corrosion "swims" up inside them. If you have issues at the starter or battery and messing with the connection "fixes" the issue, there is probably breaks in the strands. MAKE (not buy) new ones. Fords cables, if you can even get a replacement will be crazy expensive, to the tune of 300$+, and will be cost cutting, cheap ass bs. Make some with 3-0 cable. Buy cast copper terminals that are cadmium plated, aka, tinned. Have them hydraulically crimped. Solder the end of the cable to seal the cables grain. If you dont want to solder them use an appropriate epoxy and smooth it flush with the terminal or sand it off when it dries. If it looks clean it probably works better. That applies to everything you do. Now you should be prepared for the parts that are out of your control initially. If you feel the need repair your block heater cord, knock yourself out. Ill tell you this, its not macho to choose to exclude its use. You literally do NOT need it. At. ALL. If your glow plugs and batteries dont do their job that thing isnt going to tip the scale in your favor. Sorry but its about as relevant as the radio. Its a comfort option not a function enhancement tool. Dont be debated on that. It will HELP (not really) make heat faster. You will be able to slice roast beef on your electric meter, lol, which is actually macho. Keep it type A. Next, you've selected, for example, Jon's big diesel station, and its getting down around 30 degrees at night. You need to get your a $$ in to your chosen fuel shop and ASK them SPECIFICALLY what they put in the fuel for cold weather flow guarantee. If they say "its blended" and stop there. Get the ***k out and go somewhere else. They dont know which means you dont know. Heres the deal, kerosene works. Its cheaper. Now stop and think a minute. If you can even buy a gallon of WHITE power services diesel additive, its going to be 25 bucks or more. Probably a lot more. A gallon of kerosene will treat alot of diesel. Thats up to you. If you opt for additives please stick with power services WHITE or Stanadyne. Ford does make an anti gel but its too expensive in my opinion and offers nothing over the two other options. If you want to switch to a synthetic you can but as the old tale goes it may make small oil leaks more pronounced. Given the trouble youve already had, Id recommend sticking to a conventional oil in some 30 weight. 10w30 or 5w30. If this sounds odd, dont fret, its in the damn owners manual. I dont do it, never have done it, nor will I but its perfectly acceptable and a ***kload cheaper than 20$/gal synthetic. Or do what many people do everyday, stick with your 15-40 and maintained starting system and fire it up. It'll run. It'll smooth out. It'll work. If my truck is alive after the first ten years of its life with pennzoil 15w40 anybodies can handle it. To summarize: Make sure your gp/starting system is up to snuff. Replace any or all components if you are in doubt of their condition or operation. Its not worth skimping. Find good fuel close to where you live. The most important step in my opinion. Get some Power Services diesel additive in the white bottle. I got next years suply last week at menards for 8 bucks for the bottle that treats 5k gals. Its usually about 20. Last but not least, letting a diesel run for long periods is flat out, stupid and a waste of money. They are giant airpumps that are throttled with fuel. That "let er idle til she warm" bs your grandpa told you as a kid doesnt apply here. If it did, the cool down procedure for a diesel wouldnt be to let it sit, idling for a minute or two. Start it, do what you need to to leave, get in and drive away. Take it easy. Driving easy until oil temps come up to 160 degrees if they ever do is probably great advice. If its real cold the last thing on your mind should be heavy throttle runs anyway. More of that damn common sense. Dont overthink it. It all boils down to maintenance and thinking ahead. Select your fuel source carefully, the parts that allow ignition to happen, injectors up to snuff, and fire that bitsh up. That 911 stuff didnt work the one time I did try to use it. I know it works or whatever but I use straight #1, kerosene to do the same thing. Its your call. [/QUOTE]