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7.3 Aftermarket
custon dual fuel question
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[QUOTE="TARM, post: 348664, member: 578"] As for wiring what I would do is this. First have each on its own relay. You can use a wiring bus to make it easy and clean for making multiple connections to single power leads. But what I would do is this. Use high strand 10 g wire all power and ground leads. Get your power and ground directly off the battery terminals. Have that go to each relay power and ground terminals. Take the factory wiring harness that goes to the factory pump and use that for the control wire connections on the pumps. I wanted to lay that out as the basics. So its easy and not confused by placing the in cab switch into the middle of it all. Now that you have that laided out lets add the switch. This will go into the wiring that you split off the factory pump harness. You want to take the control wire going to each relay and that is what you want to put the switch between. Cut each of those and extend them into the cab and to the correct terminals on the switch. That will do it. Now that you can see how it works you can do it all when you first install it rather than waiting and doing it as two separate steps. That is if you got a grasp on it. Otherwise do it in two steps and just deal with the extra splices from cutting the wires. Otherwise you can just run each from the stock harness and the control terminal of each relay into the cab to the switch and not have those extra splices. I could draw it out on a paper and scan it in if its still a bit confusing for you. Do yourself a favor: go to a stereos shop or place that sells good car systems and get the high quality gold connectors and ends for the wires as well as top quality wire. For the control wires you can use 12 g but for power you want 10g. The reason is not that 12 g can not handle the amps it can without a issue. The issue is volt drop and this gets you lower pump efficiency. Ideally you want to see zero volt change from what you test off the alt and battery vs what you get at the pump terminal. The closer to 14v the better IMO. This also goes for shrink heat tube to cover the connection you do make. You should also put a inline fuse between the battery or power source and the relay to help prevent burning up the relay or pump or wiring should there be a surge or large draw. A 30a fuse will work as you should be also using 30a relays. Also pick up some of the corrigated tube to put your wires in it. I would put EVERY single wire that is outside the cab into this tubing. To do this you will likely have some rather large groups so make sure to purchase some large tubing like 1" Then tape the wires together and tape the ends so you can push the thru the tube rather than use the cut opening to press then in the whole way as thats a PITA. Even a single wire should be covered just get a small tube to do it. Have them go from the terminal to terminal so there is nothing left uncovered. Take some time and plan out exactly where you plan to mount your relays in the engine bay or even possibly in the cab if you so choose. Take the time to pick a ideal location for the switch. Somewhere you can get to easily but not something else would easily see and want to fool with. Flipping your pumps off while driving does not do good things to your injectors. The reason for using the stock wiring harness for the control wiring as well as to the switch is you want the PCM to be able to cut off the power all together should the truck not start but if you still have a reason to have the key allowing other power items to run but with a engine off. Otherwise the pumps would stay on if the key is in the power on key. You also would then have to splice into the fuse box to a key on power supply. You could also pick up a connector to match the factory one this will allow you to keep the end connector and not have to use splices for that connection. I know it may sound confusing and a lot but it really is not in actual practice. Its quite basic with just a handful of connections. The most critical IMO is planning where you are going to mount things and how you route the wiring. [/QUOTE]
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