Engine removal with 5 spd
- Thread starter rpm-inc
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Oh good. 95 f250. Bought it with a REAL bad oil leak. Previous owner changed rear main, and it still leaked. I got it and 2 blown orings on hpop. Wasn't gonna pull it, but now I see it needs uppipe donuts and driver side exhaust manifold has a broken bolt. So I want to pull it to fix that stuff and clean it up real good. Its pretty grimy.
Turbo is off now, but can I put it back on before I reinstall?
Turbo is off now, but can I put it back on before I reinstall?
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91turbogsx
Active member
I've put one in with the turbo on. But I installed it with the tranny attached and the front end apart if that makes a difference. I'm sure having the tranny attached didn't matter but having the front end apart definitely makes it feasible.
The turbo I have had on and off twice. Thats not a big deal. Sure is easier on a van, though! So I don't have to screw with the uppipes in the truck, can I do this-
Get it all together with the engine out, then remove the turbo and reinstall once its in the truck? I don't see why not.... When I removed it the first time, I removed the uppipe bolts at the manifold for some wiggle room. Not sure if I had to do that.
Get it all together with the engine out, then remove the turbo and reinstall once its in the truck? I don't see why not.... When I removed it the first time, I removed the uppipe bolts at the manifold for some wiggle room. Not sure if I had to do that.
rusty1161
Member
I think it would be easier to pull the transmission. IMO
Rusty
Rusty
Because its a manual? I have had no problems getting an auto lined back up.
rusty1161
Member
It just sounds like less work than pulling the engine. The uppipes and rear main seal are super easy to access with the trans out. Might be more challenging to line it all up, you're right.
Rusty
Rusty
I understand that. But after seeing a broken exhaust manifold bolt (which I could probably get out with engine in), that was the last straw. This thing is caked with sludge from leaking everywhere. I want to clean it bad.
The good, though....it is an absolute rust free 95 with 196k. Pretty banged up, but rust free. Thats a big deal up here in the salt belt.
The good, though....it is an absolute rust free 95 with 196k. Pretty banged up, but rust free. Thats a big deal up here in the salt belt.
rusty1161
Member
And as far as aligning the engine/trans, the trans would be easier to manipulate and line up to the engine.
Fixing leaks is a pet peeve of mine, too. Good luck with your project. Take some pics, too.
Rusty
Fixing leaks is a pet peeve of mine, too. Good luck with your project. Take some pics, too.
Rusty
Charles
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I don't see how you got the input shaft out of the clutch without banging the oilpan into the crossmember first. Maybe the 5 speed is different than the 6.
When I had the manual, I always just threw the trans on the ground first, or later I started pulling them together and then swinging the whole thing into the truck at once, engine + trans.
I would hate to try and line up the input shaft while bringing the engine to the trans instead of vice versa.
When I had the manual, I always just threw the trans on the ground first, or later I started pulling them together and then swinging the whole thing into the truck at once, engine + trans.
I would hate to try and line up the input shaft while bringing the engine to the trans instead of vice versa.
Charles
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The crossmember vs oilpan may be your undoing. Best start would be to get the back of the trans as low as possible and lean the engine back like crazy.
Probably going to be a whore, and likely end up with broken pilot bearing needles.
02BigD
New member
That's what happened when I pulled the motor with the ZF-6 still in the truck. It was a crazy angle, and had to get a new clutch.
My friend couldn't make it and I ended up cleaning the thing and redoing the rear main all day. For whatever reason the previous owner removed the engine back plate. He also put a new main seal on the old worn wear sleeve. Took the back plate off and it wasn't cleaned very well when he put it back together, lots of the original grey sealer.
Pretty sure I got it sealed well, but I want to fire it outside of the truck and make sure. I have an extension harness I made a while back with an injector breakout box. Will my superduty van computer fire this 95? I know my van will run with a dpc-422 computer. And I know an 01 truck will run on an early 99 computer. I guess I can hook it up and see if the injectors buzz.
Pretty sure I got it sealed well, but I want to fire it outside of the truck and make sure. I have an extension harness I made a while back with an injector breakout box. Will my superduty van computer fire this 95? I know my van will run with a dpc-422 computer. And I know an 01 truck will run on an early 99 computer. I guess I can hook it up and see if the injectors buzz.
It does indeed run off a superduty van pcm. Had it running on the ground for a few minutes. Put some fuel in the bowl and oil in the hpo reservoir and it fired off in 2 cranks with a shot of ether. Glow plug relay wasn't hooked up.
Getting it back in the truck was a chore with the core support and condenser in place and all the ac stuff hooked up. No way it was gonna happen with the trans in place. I dont know how I even got it out. Had to drop it in with the water pump facing the passenger fender and then lower and spin it in. Hopefully there is not a next time, but if there is, I am getting the ac evacuated.
Here is what i did while it was out.
Cleaned it.
Rebuilt fuel bowl.
Resealed hpop and new longer service plug.
Cut worn section off one of the uppipes, flipped it, and welded it.
Gutted pedestal and ebpv
New carquest 17250 donuts.
Removed and resealed backplate, new rear main and wear sleeve.
Resealed dipstick flange with dieselorings kit.
Repaired engine harness (replacement valve cover pigtails were wire nutted)
Removed exhaust manifold and broken bolt, and replaced with gasket and new bolts.
Getting it back in the truck was a chore with the core support and condenser in place and all the ac stuff hooked up. No way it was gonna happen with the trans in place. I dont know how I even got it out. Had to drop it in with the water pump facing the passenger fender and then lower and spin it in. Hopefully there is not a next time, but if there is, I am getting the ac evacuated.
Here is what i did while it was out.
Cleaned it.
Rebuilt fuel bowl.
Resealed hpop and new longer service plug.
Cut worn section off one of the uppipes, flipped it, and welded it.
Gutted pedestal and ebpv
New carquest 17250 donuts.
Removed and resealed backplate, new rear main and wear sleeve.
Resealed dipstick flange with dieselorings kit.
Repaired engine harness (replacement valve cover pigtails were wire nutted)
Removed exhaust manifold and broken bolt, and replaced with gasket and new bolts.
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