extra cab setups

BK39 · May 18, 2015

bigrpowr said:
Yeah none of that sounds remotely cool , but moving on I'll get you guys some pics and feedback end of next week.

lol. So is this a work truck, you're going all out on that too?

Breaking Habits · May 18, 2015

Mike,

I did that mtx box in my 2011 w/ some JL audio 10's. Pretty crisp and snappy. I dig it

TyCorr · May 18, 2015

How do you keep these trucks straight? Do you ever go "shti, I haven't driven that truck for two months"?

ja_cain · May 18, 2015

Once you've been around super high end home audio equipment, you realize real quick how tricky/chitty mobile audio can be. I would find a very linear woofer with high xmax that works good in a small sealed enclosure and then eq the response flat. Poly fill can make a small enclosure seem like a much bigger enclosure to the speaker (as much as 40%). It's a no brainer. The mass/density of the material that the driver is mounted too makes a huge difference in the output. Make sure enclosures and mounts have enough mass to them. Make sure you have a really good high powered sub amp too. Factory speaker locations can suck if the driver selection has poor off axis response (not flat) especially on the driver side where the angle is steep. This is where aftermarket door panel and kick panel mounts help. Dynomat and foam can help dampen the back wave so the door doesn't sound like a rattling tin can. DSP hardware can help with time alignment and eq'ing the response flat at the listening position. Waveguides are great at directing sound over a narrow angle so you don't get too much going in the wrong directions from first order reflections. Cars have much smaller spaces so this may be more prevalent at higher frequencies than what you would deal with in a larger sound room. God I hate car audio. I've helped my best friend build so many enclosures/walls when I was younger. The worst was the eight vented enclosures we built for his Tahoe. It was loud alright, but he needed bags to keep the thing level with all of that stupid chit/mdf in there. There are some cool box/speaker modeling programs out there that you can play around with but you will never know what the response is going to be until you get it in the vehicle. You just need the theile small parameters.

Here is my audio Nirvana right here. These http://www.linkwitzlab.com/orion-photos.htm coupled with some IB subs like what AE makes http://www.aespeakers.com/products.php

Sorry for the slight derail there.

ja_cain · May 18, 2015

I think Dayton and Peerless make some good drivers that might work well. Here are the Dayton HO series. They need some serious power though. I am using some Dayton reference series mids and woofers in an open baffle dipole arrangement in my next build. The woofers are in a ported alignment. Would love to do a w or h baffle setup like the Orion one day.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462

Looks like these things might even work in a small ported alignment. Will find out specifics if anyone cares.

Btw Ty, I'm loving the Black Label Society stuff. Got a Pandora station on my phone that I listen too on the way to work in the mornings.

TyCorr · May 18, 2015

I love the driving, pulverizing sound of Overlord. The first two songs on that album are ***kin ass kickers!

bigrpowr · May 18, 2015

BK39 said:
lol. So is this a work truck, you're going all out on that too?

yeah its my parts runner. an ex cab longbed i scored for cheap. i think all out would be an overstatement as my 13' is FAR superior in the sound department , but i like what i like , and dropping a few grand to make it sound good is worth it to me.

Jared @ River City Diesel said:
Mike,

I did that mtx box in my 2011 w/ some JL audio 10's. Pretty crisp and snappy. I dig it

thanks buddy ! thats all i need. it wont be like my 6.7 thats for sure.

TyCorr said:
How do you keep these trucks straight? Do you ever go "shti, I haven't driven that truck for two months"?

i drive my 6.7 to work everyday , then drive the parts truck running around during the day. i need a 6.4 for parts fitment , etc ..

ja_cain said:
Once you've been around super high end home audio equipment, you realize real quick how tricky/chitty mobile audio can be. I would find a very linear woofer with high xmax that works good in a small sealed enclosure and then eq the response flat. Poly fill can make a small enclosure seem like a much bigger enclosure to the speaker (as much as 40%). It's a no brainer. The mass/density of the material that the driver is mounted too makes a huge difference in the output. Make sure enclosures and mounts have enough mass to them. Make sure you have a really good high powered sub amp too. Factory speaker locations can suck if the driver selection has poor off axis response (not flat) especially on the driver side where the angle is steep. This is where aftermarket door panel and kick panel mounts help. Dynomat and foam can help dampen the back wave so the door doesn't sound like a rattling tin can. DSP hardware can help with time alignment and eq'ing the response flat at the listening position. Waveguides are great at directing sound over a narrow angle so you don't get too much going in the wrong directions from first order reflections. Cars have much smaller spaces so this may be more prevalent at higher frequencies than what you would deal with in a larger sound room. God I hate car audio. I've helped my best friend build so many enclosures/walls when I was younger. The worst was the eight vented enclosures we built for his Tahoe. It was loud alright, but he needed bags to keep the thing level with all of that stupid chit/mdf in there. There are some cool box/speaker modeling programs out there that you can play around with but you will never know what the response is going to be until you get it in the vehicle. You just need the theile small parameters.

Here is my audio Nirvana right here. These http://www.linkwitzlab.com/orion-photos.htm coupled with some IB subs like what AE makes http://www.aespeakers.com/products.php

Sorry for the slight derail there.

thanks buddy. i'm not going that crazy by any means ! i'll leave that to richard who wins sound contests. i just want mine to sound clean and hit.

ja_cain · May 18, 2015

bigrpowr said:
yeah its my parts runner. an ex cab longbed i scored for cheap. i think all out would be an overstatement as my 13' is FAR superior in the sound department , but i like what i like , and dropping a few grand to make it sound good is worth it to me.

thanks buddy ! thats all i need. it wont be like my 6.7 thats for sure.

i drive my 6.7 to work everyday , then drive the parts truck running around during the day. i need a 6.4 for parts fitment , etc ..

thanks buddy. i'm not going that crazy by any means ! i'll leave that to richard who wins sound contests. i just want mine to sound clean and hit.

I hear ya. I have a lot of respect for people that can put together a cohesive system with good imaging and staging that sounds good with all kinds of music. Doing it in an auto just plain sucks relative to a room with both optimal and sub-optimal dimensions.