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Message: [QUOTE="GreenF350, post: 890207, member: 7731"] Back at it....I'm going to continue along in here since it's still the same problem. It has now been driven over 600 miles. Plenty of full throttle runs. I used both my Scangauge and AE to run the buzz test and cylinder contribution test. Results are as follows.... Buzz Test: P1668 IDM/PCM Communication Fault I've had that code forever...as in, since I first ran a buzz test on my truck....I think it was something like 2009, LONG before any of the current issues arose. I was told not to worry about it because it isn't causing any problems and no one knew what was causing it. Cylinder Contribution: P0266 Cylinder 2, P0281 Cylinder 7. These are new. To the best of my knowledge I never had these before I did the work listed above, although I hadn't run a cylinder contribution test in awhile either since the truck was running fine. (Aside from the symptoms of tired injectors..262,000mi on them). It also now periodically turns on the "check engine" light for a few seconds randomly....usually either right about 10 miles from my house or when I really start to get into the "meat" of the pedal on a hard accelleration. When it does this, it is for P1316 IDM Codes Detected. I assume that's the cylinder contribution codes right? Anyway, so I figure that the UVCH is probably not seated all the way on both sides since it is cyl. 7 & 2 (both on the end of the bank) and today I tore into it to see. Everything looked ok under the passenger side valve cover. I disconnected and reconnected the injectors and made sure that both sides of the valve cover plugs were installed good just for ****s and grins. Reassembled and since the other side was a PITA to get to, I figured I would put it together and see what (if anything) changed. The answer was nothing had changed. Still have the light smoke at startup and a rough idle once it is warm. Still getting cylinder 2 and 7 on the contribution tests, although I did get one run of the test that only gave me cylinder 7. (The side I messed with). Since everthing was the same I figured I would check the wiring from the IDM to the injectors. Pulled the fender liner out (that is a miserable job if you try and be nice to the paint and fender) and unplugged the IDM. Pinned them out per the instructions floating around (I can tell you what pins to what pins if anyone would think it would help to know) and every injector was 2.8 or 2.9 ohms, well within limits and the rest were open as required. At this point I am leaning toward possibly having gotten some bad injectors, but the place I got them from has a good reputation so I have been trying to rule out everything else first. I was very careful with the cleaning of injector bore, installation of injectors, etc. They all went in level, torqued to spec, copper washers installed (old ones out) etc. Is there anything I am missing? What else do you guys recommend to look at before I get ahold of the vendor that I got these from? I thought at one point it might be the tunes, but with what I am seeing I am thinking more hardware than software. Thoughts? -Aaron [/QUOTE]