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Message: [QUOTE="KCTurbos, post: 1203578, member: 13852"] I found the thread LOL Well there are a lot of things that could be causing your issue. Sorry but this might get long Who's tunes are you running? Are you running an egr delete tune? Are all of these cruising numbers while empty or loaded with a trailer? Are you seeing 6-7psi of boost at 1500rpms with the high egts? Those boost numbers actually seem a little high for that low of rpm and cruising... maybe accelerating. Are you sure the egt probe is good? It could have gone bad or be going bad. It could be the brakes but unlikely to start immediately after a turbo swap. You could check that with a temp gun. Go for a little drive and use the brakes as little as possible. Pull over and see if any of the brake rotors are WAY hotter than the rest. Another quick check I have seen people perform is to put the truck in neutral while going 45mph and see if you feel any real "drag" on the truck... it should just coast like normal. Do a quick check for exhaust leaks. Pop the hood and stand to the side of the truck. Then have someone inside the truck powerbrake the truck. Just put the truck in gear, hold the brake, and floor it for about 1-2 seconds and then let off... then repeat... then let off... the goal is to build up black smoke and ebp... BUT... without spinning the tires or lunging forward. The person standing to the side of the truck near the passenger wheel well needs to be looking for smoke. You should see no smoke under the hood. If you see any smoke then I would start looking for pre-turbo exhaust leaks. There is a possibility that you need a new tune. The vane strategy is completely different for the 13 blade turbines and the 10 blade turbines. I would not think it could cause 925 cruising empty... but maybe about 100 degrees hotter than before. The 10 blade turbine will also run a little hotter down low and cooler up top... but not to the extent that you are describing. You could also have a bad/clogged ebp tube or sensor. The early trucks actually use the ebp sensor to operate the vanes. They don't really look at the boost table when it comes to operating the vanes, only ebp. So if you ebp tube was clogged or your sensor was shorting out then your sensor might be reading low and your vanes would become more aggressive to try and raise up your ebp to normal ranges. But what could actually be happening is your vanes are too aggressive and you are running SUPER high ebp which cause excessive egts. Also if you have your egr deleted and your valve still plugged in AND you are not running an egr delete tune then your vanes might be running overly aggressive trying to increase ebp, thus increasing egr flow. Also make sure there is nothing wrong with the turbo. Pull in the intake boot and check for excessive play and/or rubbing issues. If you can please post a picture of the billet wheel inside the housing. A couple years ago I sent someone the wrong comp wheel and he had high egts (too small of a comp wheel... sorry but mistakes can happen). If it is my fault I will make sure to get you taken care of. The best thing you could do to help us is to get a video of your monitor while driving around. If you don't have a monitor then that would be the first thing I would add to your list of things to do. Go on a short 5 min drive and try to get a couple light accelerations, WOT runs, cruising at 65 and cruising at 75. Make sure we can see the monitor and get the following PIDs. Also if possible keep all the windows open a little so we can hear the motor/exhaust... but try no to make it too windy MAF Boost EBP VGT duty cycle ICPv IPR/ICP duty cycle RPM Speed [/QUOTE]