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Message: [QUOTE="TARM, post: 443930, member: 578"] Was this thing running when you got it or was this the first time you started it? Did you keep the extra 3 quarts of oil in it the whole time after you added it? It could be that while you drained the oil all the oil drained out of the HPOP and then your cranking slowing brought it up and the startup just happened to come at the same time with the adding extra oil. When you say the Res drained over night were you sure to check it before and it was actually full and then it was empty the next morning or did you just check it in the morning when it would not start and found it empty? The point being it may have been mostly empty when you shut it down. Point is a PU tube issue would not cause a HPOP res to drain but it could keep it from filling up or refilling. Try putting oil in thru the port or the oil pressure sensor port on the top of the res and then check it in a few hours and see if the level has dropped more so the level is more than a inch below the top. How did the oil look in the res or on the dip stick after running it. Was it foamy? See if with the res filled and the oil at the proper filled level not over filled will it stay running. If its does not then again try it doing the oil PU tube test. (Over fill by 3 quarts and jack up the rear or having it sitting nose down hill or off a curb.) If it starts and runs I would think you have a PU tube issue. If it does end up being the PU tube you have to pull the engine to replace it. I would think long and hard the plans you have for this truck and do ANY AND ALL you can while its out. But before you do any work at all after the testing I would if you have not already run a compression test on all the cylinders. No reason to do any work at all on this engine if its got bad compression. Need to then decide if you would do better picking up used engine or doing a rebuild. If compression is fairly consistent for all cylinders and around 400 psi you know its worth putting some time into. Things to consider: if its up there in miles close to 200K I would pull the injectors if they are original send them off to be rebuilt or swap them for some stage Is. At the very least replace all the orings. Replacing the LPOP check the front cover where the LPOP mates. If there is scoring at all swap out for a cover thats in good shape. Its an 02 so its got PMR rods. If you plan to add any real power upgrades think about swapping rods to stock forged rods while its out. Replace the oil dipstick connector as they tend to be a point of oil leaks as these age. The pan itself. If its in bad condition (rust) replace it. Valve springs they have shown to get quite weak after a 100K. COmp Camps 910 are cheap. Add in a set of shims to bring them into spec would be a good move. Turbo up pipes. If they should any leaks etc replace while the engine is out is so much easier. If you plan for head studs now is the time. Same goes for a fuel system. You can get to those lower back inspection ports real easy with it out. Do a bit of reading on sealing the oil pan. Make sure not to get the bolt holes full of sealant as its been said the hydraulics from tightening down the bolt compressing the sealant can crack the block down there. For me I would do that compression test first as you need the starter to do it easily. See if the engine is worth the work then go from there. [/QUOTE]