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[QUOTE="TyCorr, post: 1167653, member: 1451"] My nerves are a bit raw, admit it, but im giving no bs honest advice. I have a 00 fr motor truck with upgraded cylinder geads, a comp fuel system,billet wheeled 38r, 250/200 from pis(had ff 250/200 that ate srp hpop guts and ruined). Truck had a twisted stg 2 euth the upgraded input shaft(billet or 300m) and its sitting on 35x12.5 with 3.73...its great but seems like at this point its going to be something that has a list of repairs at each oil change. It probably needs a swamps, built billet rod motor and have them go through the electronics. But now you're talking another 25k$. I could have a 700hp 6.4 for what ive got into this. Or at least a very nice condition 08 kr that is tuned. This is not the same as it was with some 175/80s. Easily another 150hp, if not more...hell id bet it picked up 50 by going to pis injectors of thecsame size. And the idle quality is incomparable with these injectors. Buttery smooth. Better than stock. Im not a downer but realistically unless I learn to yune, this truck is borderline useless at 550hp. It does drive nice empty and is completely fierce even with a smallish charger...street setup that dreams are made of. But its an old rattley truck. You cant talk in it...its deafening... Just telling it like it really is. I daily drive a 14 dmax srw one ton. Tuned/deleted it would eat my "high performance" truck alive. For 50 grand. Yea, it is kinda dumb to try to make power when its doable electronically with a newer, nicer smoother truck. All im saying. Im a dyed in the wool 7.3 guy but c'mon. Half the aftermarket parts dont last and the others have poor support. If everyone ran their shop like swamps or pis it'd be fine. Ive had more setbacks and bad experiences than awesome ones. Oil.pumps injectors and electronics that were garbage. Im going to try to get my truck to a very reliable point with my setup but it wont take much struggle for me to drop back to some ac/30%, the 38r, and just enjoy a 400hp turnkey reliabke truck. [/QUOTE]
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