Figured you had, if you were recommending it. Looks good, id never tried it.Yeah, it fits fine. I’ve done it on a number of 03 early 04’s.
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Figured you had, if you were recommending it. Looks good, id never tried it.Yeah, it fits fine. I’ve done it on a number of 03 early 04’s.
Figured you had, if you were recommending it. Looks good, id never tried it.
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Ive never seen one leak, but ive also never put one in the early spot. I always thought they leaked due to the heat/lack of a pressure drop at the rear of the motor, instead of where the late ones are mounted on the valve cover. Maybe it is just the early sensors are junk. Great tip though bud, never thought of doing that.They seem to hold up better. Don’t know if I’ve ever seen one leak like the early version does.
Ive never seen one leak, but ive also never put one in the early spot. I always thought they leaked due to the heat/lack of a pressure drop at the rear of the motor, instead of where the late ones are mounted on the valve cover. Maybe it is just the early sensors are junk. Great tip though bud, never thought of doing that.
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That sensor is on the drivers side of the intake, right behind the fuel bowl. Gray connector, looks the same as the eot sensor and the ect sensor plugs.Thanks Zeb and 6.0 Tech I will look for that MAT on the driver side, as much as I have been over it I don't know how I missed it.
Thank you for the input Zeb and gohouston. I have got those numbers backaswards there for sure, sorry about that. I have suspected that it might have something to do with the ICP, but I was not getting my head around it as the lower value at around 27ish would be running the IPR pretty near closed,(as I was thinking that would still be open a bit) and I could see that would lead to the higher pressure but now as you point out and I am finally remember it if you unplug the ICP it defaults to closing alright, and 27 is closed not just kind of close. Thank you I will get right at looking at that connection etc. I am not getting any codes. I wouldn't think it is anything in the injectors as when it first starts up it will run fine for almost 10 seconds. When I changed the HPOP I pulled the HP oil rails and flushed and blew them out real well. Also blew out the HP oil tube supply lines from the pump through the braided hoses into containers so nothing would get back into the head/block. I tried to suck out the injectors with a turkey baster also but don't think it did much. Did find some things that looked like bunkey balls (repolymerized HPOP screen) in the initial draining of the driver side HP oil rail (the first I pulled), but didn't find any thing more in the drain, cleaning and rinse cycles of the other, nor in the lines. My gut feeling has always been that it was something electrical and I think you have confirmed that, and I know where to go now. I would be surprised if there isn't any oil on that plug. Thanks again.
I replaced the FICM once on this truck about 4 years ago after the truck started behaving inconsistently in that it would run as if some injectors were missing and sometimes hard start. I was trouble shooting bad injectors by using my non-contact thermal gun and had good luck using that method up until that point. Had a shop with a good scanner look at it and they initially said they thought it was a wiring issue and then did a quick FICM swap that did fix the problem. It was one of the few times in the last 20+ years that have had a shop work on one of our vehicles and I felt like I really should have known better and swore not to fall for that again. I could have bought a scanner for myself for the charge and I had to go back and have them put bolts in the degass bottle as it was just floating on top of the motor with no bolts holding it.
The way this starts up cold and runs fine for a short while and then starts romping at a high idle sometimes falling back to 900 then back to 1100 or so just reminds me of how flaky the FICM effected the injectors and the engine performance. Just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences with a PCM and if there are any fixes. I have heard that FICMs can be repaired by re-soldering the components and I am wondering if anyone has experience with the PCMs. I am seriously thinking I need to tear into mine and see what I find. I got a new ICP Original 03-04 style but haven't replaced it yet as I have a 05 style coming and since it is not the easiest to get to I thought I would just do the new style. I really don't have a lot faith that the ICP is going to do much more than the IAT#2 (MAT) sensor. The common denominator looks to me to be the PCM as they (IPR, MAT and ICP) all report to the PCM. I see a used 06 PCM for a reasonable price and am wondering if that would even work or have there been some change like the pin out or configuration, operational voltage, communication protocol to the FICM or something else I am not thinking about.
Thanks Zeb. That is encouraging. It may be a while until I can get to it as we just got news that the expected granddaughter is arriving and we are going to have to head there to meet her. It's only 700 or so miles so everything should be here when we get back. Thanks again.