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Message: [QUOTE="SkySki Jason, post: 223509, member: 1118"] My 'while you are in there' list would include: - HPO o-rings everywhere (I think I replaced them one-by-one on my dually) - rebuild fuel bowl - new o-rings on water drain, remove or replace fuel bowl heater and all new vibra-loc sleeves - replace GP's - check torque on injector hold downs and rockers - Melling LPOP - prep and paint the oil pan (fwiw, the metal is not the problem - its the coating! POR15 or Line-X should be good for any climate, good prep and Rustoluem are adequate for the south/non-rustbelt areas) - fix leaky up-pipes with at least new doughnuts, but new bellowed pipes will last the longest (I heard Jake will have an inexpensive option for that soon? not sure about E99 though...) - upgrade CAC boots and add plenum inserts so you can use better clamps down there - rebuild oil cooler - put a valve on the heater core supply line. Closing this in summer makes AC colder! - rebuild the turbo (under $100) - ceramic coat exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housing w/Turbo X ([url]http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-exhaust-system-coatings.html[/url]) - I would paint, powder coat or polish everything I took off (its a sickness for me) Specifically VC's, accessory brackets, 5-way plenum, CAC tubes and the block. - replace high-pressure line on power steering pump ($30ish - both of my PSD's failed without warning) - upgrade HPOP. At least to a 17* pump. This extra HPO should help 'wake up' your truck a little and deliver better MPG's and lower EGT's. - If you are deleting fuel bowl heater, AIH, EBPV, WG, etc - modify the wire harness with resistors while harness is off the engine! - INJECTOR CUPS, so you can use ELC!!! - in-tank and pre-pump fuel mods (just don't use a 'primary' filter pre-pump - all ya need here is a strainer to protect the pump. The PSD pump doesn't really like to suck thru a filter) No need for reg-return on a stockish truck. If you are really concerned about what little air might get in the rails, the Frx is a cheap warm, fuzzy feeling. I wouldn't bother with any of it unless ya plan to make big HP. The stock plumbing is nearly bulletproof and causes very few problems. That said, if ya need new fuel lines or are deleting the fuel bowl anyway - ya might as well! I would not use rubber hoses myself (we've seen a number of failures, its not pretty). Use PTFE-lined, SS braided hoses with swivel JIC ends. You can DIY these yourself from [url]www.discounthydraulichose.com[/url] - or have hoses made at any hose shop. IIRC, a good FPR costs almost as much as your DIY budget - then ya need fittings and hoses, so it might be better to buy a kit from someone. (I still think thats a few $100 better spent elsewhere) I'm not sure I would invest in VC gaskets or UVCH's. I would do the $0.50 mod to make sure UVCH's don't come unplugged. The probability of these failing is low and they aren't really that hard to change in truck. [ATTACH=full]77488[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]77489[/ATTACH] Build a boost leak detector and make sure ya don't have any boost leaks when ya put it back together: [ATTACH=full]77490[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]77491[/ATTACH] I was out of time and this was all I could get done on the F350's engine: [ATTACH=full]77492[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]77493[/ATTACH] on edit: I would only remove oil pan if it was leaking. If ya do pull it, be sure to use the Motorcraft sealant for this application (TA-31??) [/QUOTE]