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Power Strokes
7.3 Tech
ZF6 -650 rebuild and other things I've done on my early 99 7.3 F350
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[QUOTE="Dave_Nevada, post: 1498587, member: 29749"] [b]O'Tooles Law: Murphy was an 'Optomist'.[/b] Okay, one problem with the size of the Heim joint I used to mod my pedal tree, the )(!*@$#_()!&*$()*$ POS will not fit in the end of the clutch switch. "It's toooooo big, it won't fit there". What? You've never heard that before? Bummer dude. Seriously, that's too bad. Anyway- since I have always HATED that dang clutch BS, kill the switch!!!! Sooo, it's Clutch Switch elimination time, but retaining the Cruise control ‘break’ switch. Again, some folks like myself absolutely HATE the fact that you MUST depress the clutch to start the engine. :bs: What the hell? Are we morons to these people? :morons: Who starts their truck in gear? LOL Nonetheless, I happen to use the cruise control on long road trips and I do not want to lose the ‘break cruise’ function of the clutch when I decide to down shift. That’s pretty handy. Therefore, the associated circuits are as follows with my 99 F350 clutch pedal safety switch: Pins 1 & 2 Starter Relay Control Normally/Open (N/O) Pins 3 & 4 Cruise Control ‘Break’ circuit- Normally/Closed (N/C) Pins 5 & 6 No Connection* on Diesels *If there are wires present on wiring loom in pins 5 & 6, those are only used for a PCM signal on gas engines. How the OEM switch works for Diesel applications Clutch pedal in home position A. Cruise control circuit portion feeds +12 volts dc to the PCM and breaks the +12vdc when the pedal is moved 1/2” down. B. The starter circuit control is inactive at home position, active when clutch pedal is depressed (sufficiently). The problem- these switches are really cheaply made. In layman’s terms: they suck and they’re expensive. $48 is an average price. Yeezussss!!! :cursing: If they break (and they will, see O'Toole's law), you are stuck until you wire pins 1 & 2 together to start the engine. That means cranking your head up into the dash area, trying to get your mitts up in that tight area, aching back, lots of cussing, etc. Not to mention how late you are for work, appointments, wife yelling hurry up, blah blah blah. Who needs that crap? To remove this troublesome switch, shunt the wires that feed pins 1 & 2. REMOVE YOUR BATTERY CONNECTIONS and simply cut the plug off, solder and insulate the wires that fed pins 1 & 2. Look at the switch pins; you will see the pin numbers inside the connector receptacle. BTW- those of you that want to install a manual anti-theft switch, use these two leads to feed a hidden toggle switch. If you don’t have a Clutch switch to look at- here’s the line up: Switch number: F57B-11A152-AA Plug key notch is located at 6 o’clock (for reference); pins are numbered starting from left to right. 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 +12 vdc - Starter Relay control circuit 2 Output to the Starter Relay control circuit 3 +12 vdc- Cruise Control circuit 4 Output to the Cruise Control circuit 5 Not used 6 Not used This means when you start your truck- be in neutral (you should already do this) because the clutch will no longer prevent you from starting it in gear. I know that’s obvious to most, but trust me, there are some that just don’t get it. I call them ‘special’. So did Sir Francis Galton, but that’s another topic hours long in scope. I own a Deuce and a half, and that's exactly how I start it- as well as the dozens of other manual trans trucks I have owned over the years. No biggie. To restore your cruise control, install a fabricated brake bracket on the pedal tree with a Normally/Closed (N/C) switch on the bracket that is always activated from the clutch pedal home position. Use the two torex screws on the pedal tree to mount the bracket. Easy peasey. Same idea as how an old style brake switch is designed, except the opposite switch logic; brake light switches are Normally/Open and when active, closed when the pedal is depressed to operate the brake lights. Cruise control on the Diesel truck is always active until the clutch pedal is depressed. Therefore, install a Normally/Closed (N/C) switch. Lastly, adjust the switch plunger to disengage the circuit at 1/2” of clutch pedal travel. Film at 11. [/QUOTE]
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ZF6 -650 rebuild and other things I've done on my early 99 7.3 F350
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