7.3 cut out while driving won't restart

TARM · Jun 18, 2014

The trickle charger may actually never recharge the batteries. I tried a few and when I checked they all told me once you get below a certain level that is it for the trickle chargers ability. The level threshold was well above what would allow them to turn over the engine so if they will not spin the engine over then they are too low for a trickle charger to help was what I came away from it understanding. They are made to maintain a full charge not to actually recharge and somewhat drained battery. Somewhat drained as I was told was below 80-85%.

To give you an idea I had them on separately each for over a week and never got them to charge. Put them on a proper charger and they were GTG in a few hours.

mustube · Jun 18, 2014

Well they are yellow tops and ive always been told to charge them as slow as possible. I did get a real charger last night though.

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trukdoc55 · Jun 18, 2014

I have the same issue on a truck I am working on. Waiting to hear the outcome. Good luck.

TyCorr · Jun 18, 2014

I have one of those $50 2a-10a-50a chargers and it will charge batteries that are down fairly far but ive never had em below 9v.

Maybe it would serve you well to take them and have them tested as tue tester would have to charge them first. Free charge and you'll find out if they are good or not.

littleredstroker · Jun 18, 2014

the top ring on the injector between the steel and the blue oring, that ring doesn't do any sealing tho its just to keep the space between the actual o ring and the steel ring right? so I guess im a tad confused as to how a cushion ring cut can cause this much hell

mustube · Jun 18, 2014

Definitely an injector o ring issue. I blocked off the passenger side HPOP line and it started right up on only the drivers bank. I guess I'll get some o rings and get ready to change them this weekend. I'll post pics of the offending oring(s) when I get it apart. My apartment complex is going to love me so much.

TyCorr · Jun 19, 2014

mustube said:
Definitely an injector o ring issue. I blocked off the passenger side HPOP line and it started right up on only the drivers bank. I guess I'll get some o rings and get ready to change them this weekend. I'll post pics of the offending oring(s) when I get it apart. My apartment complex is going to love me so much.

Not to be a derail dik, but how are those 175s treatin' ya? Beyond the oring issue anyway.

Im glad for your sanity that you have the injector issue figured out.

mustube · Jun 19, 2014

I love them. I think every 7.3 should have them. Great driveability, and power. Merging onto the highway is so much easier with them, it's like driving a totally different truck.

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TyCorr · Jun 19, 2014

mustube said:
I love them. I think every 7.3 should have them. Great driveability, and power. Merging onto the highway is so much easier with them, it's like driving a totally different truck.

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Are egts pretty cool? I had the same size but an 80 over nozzle from a different builder and wasnt impressed. In hindsight I think my stock hpop and lack of fuel system held them back. Im kinda looking in envy at some as I have 250/200s in a truck that isnt really ready for them, lol. In other words, given my lack of time and waning interest im wondering if Ill ever finish this truck. Im honestly more interested in reliability and replacing the interior, paint, and stereos. Lol.

mustube · Jun 19, 2014

EGTs never get out of hand but I only have a tow tune and a street tune. I'm waiting to get a turbo and regulated return before I get a bigger tune for it.

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TyCorr · Jun 19, 2014

mustube said:
EGTs never get out of hand but I only have a tow tune and a street tune. I'm waiting to get a turbo and regulated return before I get a bigger tune for it.

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Gotcha. I saw the ww2 and my mind instantly thought 38r.

TARM · Jun 20, 2014

You just put these injectors in roughly 6 months ago. Not that o-rings can not go bad quickly or have a defect that causes it but they tend to last if they are high quality a long time.

When you blocked the one HPOP outlet did you by chance record or see the ICP it was making?

If you can hook some compressed air up to the HPOP rail, once you pull the VC, you could tell which injector is leaking. It would prevent you from pulling them all as you can not be sure its only one even if you got lucky on the first one. Also if its more than one I would personally do the entire set of 8 along with copper washers as it would make me wonder about the condition of all of them. If its just one then it can be written off as sh!t happens.

Kind of surprised it leaks so bad it will not start or build ICP over 200 psi yet the HPOP res does not leak down.

You might want to crank it once you have the VC off and UVCH unplugged to make sure its not say a rail plug. (I think there are ones under the VC) Unlikely but could also be that an injector puking oil from a poppet seat issue. Again it would also just help to narrow down what injector/s has the issue.

IF it turns out to be an o-ring would it likley will be do take a pic of it. Interested to see its condition and how it was on the injector body.

Good luck.

mustube · Jun 20, 2014

I think I saw 2500 psi with the passenger side line blocked off but I didn't let it run for too long.

The hpop does leak down (post 40), it just took a couple of days to see it.

I was very careful during install and made sure everything was clean but I'm betting that I nicked an o ring on install or something. I do have an adapter to pressurize the oil rail so I will pull the vc tonight and see what's going on. With how suddenly it happened, I'm betting it's only one injector.

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mandkole · Jun 20, 2014

Injs are only 6 months old? hmmm. It ran good up to this point?

Ive been quiet on this one with the help you've been getting, but I think you should hold off on pulling injectors. Stranger things have happened but in a fresh injector set, orings dont just suddenly fail. If one was damaged on install, it would have shown running issues prior to now (not noted) and would need to be very torn up to cause total rail pressure loss. (You also do not show that you tried to start it on the other bank which would give support to a pass side issue. )

Suddenly dying and no start is more typical of a CPS issue (I think you fixed it), an HPO supply/ feedback/ control issue, or other electronic issue. Id stay focused on those issues for now.

mustube · Jun 20, 2014

Starts fine with passenger side plugged and only builds 200 MAX psi with everything hooked up. What else do you really think could be wrong?

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littleredstroker · Jun 20, 2014

im having this exact same problem.

If the IPR is stuck completely open wont it still build 300psi? I read a troubleshooting guide a while back that was saying cranking Psi<300psi that its a oil leak somewhere...
Cranking psi> 300, is a worn Hpop /IPR related
Cps doesn't have anything to do with oil pressure

mandkole · Jun 20, 2014

Its still very possible that you have a pump or other pressure feedback issue. You've confirmed significant drainback and you've confirmed that the pump is much happier when supplying one rail vs. two. To confirm rail pressure loss, each rail needs to be independently pressurized with a hand pump.

I think you're getting close, but I just keep coming back to the original failure. A bad oring would have been telling you things already (especially when hot). Unless an injector just somehow jammed open and locked up (bleeding all rail ICP thru the poppet) an individual injector isnt likely to cause this total shutdown. its something else...

I dont like to do needless work and injector R&Rs are a big deal (especially in an apartment parking lot). I'd be still looking, confirming and narrowing down the possibility.

mustube · Jun 20, 2014

I'm going to pop the valve cover and pressurize the rail with air to see if any bleed oil off the top. Also read that if you unplug the valve cover harness and crank it you can check that way too for oil leaks. As far as significant drain back, it was fine overnight right after it died but empty 2 days after that.

If the oil supply system was that big of an issue I would think it wouldn't build enough pressure to even start on one bank, if it only built 200 psi with both sides hooked up. I did not pull the rail plugs anywhere when I changed the injectors so I don't see those being loose under the valve covers.

I've changed the IPR and the CPS with zero change in symptoms with either change.

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littleredstroker · Jun 20, 2014

mustube said:
I'm going to pop the valve cover and pressurize the rail with air to see if any bleed oil off the top. Also read that if you unplug the valve cover harness and crank it you can check that way too for oil leaks. As far as significant drain back, it was fine overnight right after it died but empty 2 days after that.

If the oil supply system was that big of an issue I would think it wouldn't build enough pressure to even start on one bank, if it only built 200 psi with both sides hooked up. I did not pull the rail plugs anywhere when I changed the injectors so I don't see those being loose under the valve covers.

I've changed the IPR and the CPS with zero change in symptoms with either change.

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correct.. that's what I will be doing this weekend