gwunter
Active member
I may not have caught it, but are you milling the t4 flange flat for a good seal?? Also this is a very nice looking OBS!!
7.3 OBS Build: Gloria
- Thread starter Krause
- Start date
Krause
New member
Unfortunately, no I dont have any milling capabilities. For the mating surface of the T4 flange, I pretty much ran a DA sander gently on the surface until smooth, then came back and did it another day as well. It's not perfect, but I think it will seal up fine.
gwunter
Active member
If you were closer by a few hundo miles I'd true it up for free for ya.
01pwrstkr
New member
Nice work! And great looking truck!
"3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead"
"3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead"
Arisley
Moderator
Just keep laying a straight edge across it. Keep working it until the straight edge is within .001 at the worst spot. A gasket will seal with a .001 gap.
Krause
New member
Ah, thats good info, thank you! I'll have to go out and check where its at.
Krause
New member
1/2 plate? Yea these were tigged, but I was/am worried it warped it.
bucklee00
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THANK YOU for documenting this! I have been looking for diy s366 pedestals for a while now, and there aren't many documented. Could you post a link to 'bills' thread where he builds one also?
fordman67
New member
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1270170-big-reds-build-thread.html
we may have cut up a bit but there is more there for your viewing pleasure.
we may have cut up a bit but there is more there for your viewing pleasure.
jwlandry
Active member
Very nice write up so far.
Obsledpuller
New member
It can be done in the truck I did mine that way but it's quite a PITA you have to lift the radiator and everything to get the puller in there. If it were mine to do again I would've waited until I pulled the engine to do it.
Beautiful truck btw I like the build so far!
Krause
New member
Alright,
Had a good weekend of work, doesn't seem like I accomplished a lot, but did get some things sorted out.
I'll start with the up pipes, they were primered and painted with VHT flame proof paint. I wanted to do ceramic coating, but they are getting wrapped, and seeing as though they are stainless I'm really not that worried about it.
Once they were painted and baked, I was going to take a DA sander to the mating face of the turbo mount, and try to get it as smooth as possible. Well I hadn't realized it before, but right off the bat, I had a big high spot. I guess some of the heat we laid into the angle iron pulled/pushed it around a bit, and a straight edge across felt like a teeter-totter. Magnum mentioned this a little while back, didnt realize it was this bad initially, my mistake
.
So I didn't really know what to do short of taking it to a machine shop. Pretty much resorted to the good old file.
You can see the high spot here ^ on the top of the plate roughly above the web space/divider. Spent a good couple hours carefully hand filling everything down.
Then they got the exhaust wrap, which is why I was never too worried about the appearance of these thing, I think they look sweet now!
Then I went after the oil rail end plugs on the back. Got them removed, the NEED a bit of heat. I didn't know this at first, and was legitimately bouncing my entire weight on the end of a breaker bar, and they would not break loose. A bit of heat from a propane torch, and they came free. Here is the plug with seal removed.
And the new seal from Guzzle. The original is black.
Then you put loctite 277 on the threads, and they go back in to 60Ft/LBS.
Then, time to put the intake plenums on for real. Clay's have this nifty o-ring seal, which is ultimately the reason I went with these at a bit more cost than other options. Have read one too many stories of guys checking for boost leaks and finding they didn't quite get a good seal in one corner of their plenum with ford grey, and had to do it all over again. No thanks..
Bolted down, can't recall the torque spec here.
And finally, the big wait was over, and I got this sweet little unit from Clay as well. This is the injector cup too set, on the left is the remover, and the right is the installer.
Both of them bolt down onto the injector hold down bolt-holes.
With the arrow facing the springs..
One tip I will mention, I just saw this on a youtube vid, is that to insure no shavings from the injector cups end up in the cylinder as the removal tool bites into it, you can throw a penny down in the injector cup. Pretty much a perfect fit, and if there was going to be anything fall down there, it'll come up with the injector cup.
So once you thread the removal tool in, and then thread it up, the old one pops right out.
The new once gets prepped, clean the bore with a circular wire brush on a drill or something,
And stick em in.
-Andrew
Had a good weekend of work, doesn't seem like I accomplished a lot, but did get some things sorted out.
I'll start with the up pipes, they were primered and painted with VHT flame proof paint. I wanted to do ceramic coating, but they are getting wrapped, and seeing as though they are stainless I'm really not that worried about it.
Once they were painted and baked, I was going to take a DA sander to the mating face of the turbo mount, and try to get it as smooth as possible. Well I hadn't realized it before, but right off the bat, I had a big high spot. I guess some of the heat we laid into the angle iron pulled/pushed it around a bit, and a straight edge across felt like a teeter-totter. Magnum mentioned this a little while back, didnt realize it was this bad initially, my mistake
.So I didn't really know what to do short of taking it to a machine shop. Pretty much resorted to the good old file.
You can see the high spot here ^ on the top of the plate roughly above the web space/divider. Spent a good couple hours carefully hand filling everything down.
Then they got the exhaust wrap, which is why I was never too worried about the appearance of these thing, I think they look sweet now!
Then I went after the oil rail end plugs on the back. Got them removed, the NEED a bit of heat. I didn't know this at first, and was legitimately bouncing my entire weight on the end of a breaker bar, and they would not break loose. A bit of heat from a propane torch, and they came free. Here is the plug with seal removed.
And the new seal from Guzzle. The original is black.
Then you put loctite 277 on the threads, and they go back in to 60Ft/LBS.
Then, time to put the intake plenums on for real. Clay's have this nifty o-ring seal, which is ultimately the reason I went with these at a bit more cost than other options. Have read one too many stories of guys checking for boost leaks and finding they didn't quite get a good seal in one corner of their plenum with ford grey, and had to do it all over again. No thanks..
Bolted down, can't recall the torque spec here.
And finally, the big wait was over, and I got this sweet little unit from Clay as well. This is the injector cup too set, on the left is the remover, and the right is the installer.
Both of them bolt down onto the injector hold down bolt-holes.
With the arrow facing the springs..
One tip I will mention, I just saw this on a youtube vid, is that to insure no shavings from the injector cups end up in the cylinder as the removal tool bites into it, you can throw a penny down in the injector cup. Pretty much a perfect fit, and if there was going to be anything fall down there, it'll come up with the injector cup.
So once you thread the removal tool in, and then thread it up, the old one pops right out.
The new once gets prepped, clean the bore with a circular wire brush on a drill or something,
And stick em in.
-Andrew
Krause
New member
And next come valve springs. These are comp 910's, and a .0030 shim.
Bought this valve spring compressor tool off amazon for 17 bucks. Did the job fine. Cant use this in truck I guess, but of course thats not the case here so it got it done.
Once compressed, get a magnet and grab the keepers out. In most cases, I had to push the spring around a bit in order for them to let the keepers go.
After that, the spring comes right out. Take the top plate and put it on the new comp springs, and compress them for install. Coat the new valve seal in oil and the shim goes on first, then the valve seal.
Put the new compressed spring over the seal, and work the keepers back in (this is a task on some, depends if the spring compresses perfectly straight or not), And you are done. Repeat 16 times.
Once done, the valve train components can go back on and now dont take up space in garage, thats a win. I am using some Permatex assembly lube from amazon.
Cant remember the torque spec on the rocker arm hold down bolts, but I found them on google/FTE somewhere.
And looky what else showed up on friday! My injectors made it back,
And they are going in shiny new cups, which have had time to cure now.
Got them all in, the top down bolt is bottomed out on shoulder at 120 INCH/Lbs, and the lower hold down bolt is torqued to 120 INCH/Lbs (it will not bottom out).
Either my hands arnt manly enough, or the new orings were tight, but I needed to gently use a rubber mallet to fully seat the injectors.
Then the oil deflectors, they go to 106 Inch/Lbs
Next, I had some suspect looking exhaust manifold bolts, so I decided to risk it and try replacing them one at a time with good ones. Not all of them looked bad, only 5. I got really lucky and didn't have any break on me. So got them changed while the motor was out.
These are the ones that looked bad to me
There are the 5 I removed, the one on the far right had some chipping on the head.
Then it was oil cooler time.
I used vaseline
And a racket strap to compress it. Worked well
And it goes on, shop is slowly loosing clutter.
Look what else showed up!
Then tapped things off again..
Painty painty
And this is how she is looking
Hoping to get the TConverter this week and be able to put this back into the truck.
-Andrew[/QUOTE]
Bought this valve spring compressor tool off amazon for 17 bucks. Did the job fine. Cant use this in truck I guess, but of course thats not the case here so it got it done.
Once compressed, get a magnet and grab the keepers out. In most cases, I had to push the spring around a bit in order for them to let the keepers go.
After that, the spring comes right out. Take the top plate and put it on the new comp springs, and compress them for install. Coat the new valve seal in oil and the shim goes on first, then the valve seal.
Put the new compressed spring over the seal, and work the keepers back in (this is a task on some, depends if the spring compresses perfectly straight or not), And you are done. Repeat 16 times.
Once done, the valve train components can go back on and now dont take up space in garage, thats a win. I am using some Permatex assembly lube from amazon.
Cant remember the torque spec on the rocker arm hold down bolts, but I found them on google/FTE somewhere.
And looky what else showed up on friday! My injectors made it back,
And they are going in shiny new cups, which have had time to cure now.
Got them all in, the top down bolt is bottomed out on shoulder at 120 INCH/Lbs, and the lower hold down bolt is torqued to 120 INCH/Lbs (it will not bottom out).
Either my hands arnt manly enough, or the new orings were tight, but I needed to gently use a rubber mallet to fully seat the injectors.
Then the oil deflectors, they go to 106 Inch/Lbs
Next, I had some suspect looking exhaust manifold bolts, so I decided to risk it and try replacing them one at a time with good ones. Not all of them looked bad, only 5. I got really lucky and didn't have any break on me. So got them changed while the motor was out.
These are the ones that looked bad to me
There are the 5 I removed, the one on the far right had some chipping on the head.
Then it was oil cooler time.
I used vaseline
And a racket strap to compress it. Worked well
And it goes on, shop is slowly loosing clutter.
Look what else showed up!
Then tapped things off again..
Painty painty
And this is how she is looking
Hoping to get the TConverter this week and be able to put this back into the truck.
-Andrew[/QUOTE]
gwunter
Active member
This is looking really good. Its really unfortunate about that t4 mount warping so bad. I hope it doesn't cause any long term issues. You need to find a machining buddy nearby!!
jwlandry
Active member
Looking very good. I really like those plentums.
PABowhunter
Member
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- Sep 18, 2012
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Love the look of this build coming together. Are you doing all the work in PA or Canada? I know a few machine guys in PA.
Krause
New member
Truck is currently in Hershey PA. I after 3 hours working with the file, I think Ive got it flat, but if it leaks when I get to testing, I'll likely be at the end my patience. May have to take you up on a recommendation.
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