Installing GTP-38R and new pedestal

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You know..i was thinking that after I bought it. Would have saved some money to. But i was pretty happy no one knocked me for it until the 2nd page. Lol. EBPV is just used during warm up right?
Thanks for mentioning the Waste gate that was one thing i forgot to ask about that I wanted to. Truck is oretty stock aceept for i take, stock injectors. I should tight it as far as it will go?
Yeah, stock to smaller upgraded injectors should not overspeed the 38r, it's actually a really stout little turbo.
 

aceltx

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I just keep it, i just figured everyone was deleteing them and was gonna say I should have. I just finished removing everything went pretty smooth, I replaced the fuel line on passenger rail, goin to put back together 2morow.
1 of main reasons I am doing this is had an oil leak comin from valley. All the searching i did i could not find anything. From all the reading on here i figured it had to be turbo pedestal. I was eventually going to upgrade new turbo and didnt want to do all this work 2 times i figured i replace em both. After removing it, I am not confident the leak was the pedestal, everyrhing has oil on it but figured i would see some more sign of coming from pedestal than I do, Not a daily drive truck, sits in garage most of time and it is a very small leak. Im worried now, put it back together and still have a leak. Def comin from valley, leaking down back of motor and goin on starter, fly wheel cover. The 2 middle gullys of the valley have oil in them. Any other ideas were it could be coming from while I have all this apart? Since i am putting back together in a.m. I might make a post to get some quick responses tonight, appreciate all the replys very helpful im sure i will refrence in a.m. To make sure i get everything.
 

aceltx

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Just ran out checked them, i dont think its them, pretty dry, i will keep an eye on them when i get it back together and start it though
 

psduser1

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As in your other thread, clean the piss out of everything. I'd guess a roll of rags, and about 4 cans of brakekleen, lol. Then run it, and see what you've got.
 

aceltx

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I will thanks for the tip...gotta love that brake cleen i buy it by the box, that super clean degreaser works really good to.
 

powerlifter405

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The HPOP has several locations that can drip. I had the same exact decent drip coming of the bell housing. Made me think it might have been rear main, due to my older gasser days. I found the oil filled valley and in the end several of the HPOP orings were leaking.
 

lincolnlocker

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I will thanks for the tip...gotta love that brake cleen i buy it by the box, that super clean degreaser works really good to.
might even be able to get everything clean and burp the throttle a few times or even just let it idle to get a idea of where its leaking.. if not then drive it down the road a couple hundred yards then get out and check it.. if still cant find it, do a wot run then get out and check it.. if you just go drive it fir miles without checking, it could be messy again and you wont find it. have to start over..

live life full throttle
 

lincolnlocker

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The HPOP has several locations that can drip. I had the same exact decent drip coming of the bell housing. Made me think it might have been rear main, due to my older gasser days. I found the oil filled valley and in the end several of the HPOP orings were leaking.
it can definitely come from that!! i believe golfer said that there are 22 or 23 different spots on top of the motor that can leak oil from a bad oring..

live life full throttle
 

78f100

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Look closely at the ebpv actuator. Where the rod comes out of the housing. Thay are bad about leaking when cold then stopping as it warms up. If you have any oil at the rod hole I would just do the delete. Worst part is putting the freeze plugs in the housing.
 

lincolnlocker

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Look closely at the ebpv actuator. Where the rod comes out of the housing. Thay are bad about leaking when cold then stopping as it warms up. If you have any oil at the rod hole I would just do the delete. Worst part is putting the freeze pigs in the housing.
he has all new parts.. should be good for a 100k miles or so..

live life full throttle
 

Arisley

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Look closely at the ebpv actuator. Where the rod comes out of the housing. Thay are bad about leaking when cold then stopping as it warms up. If you have any oil at the rod hole I would just do the delete. Worst part is putting the freeze plugs in the housing.

He is replacing the pedestal.
 

aceltx

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I will check the piece coming out of old pedestal closely in the morning, after that i will recheck the hpop lines, clean everything and start putting it back together.....wtf...22 or 23 spots that are known for leaking into the valley???? I guess I better get used to this because i plan on keeping this truck forever! Lol I just hope i put this all back together with no new leaks..
 

lincolnlocker

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I will check the piece coming out of old pedestal closely in the morning, after that i will recheck the hpop lines, clean everything and start putting it back together.....wtf...22 or 23 spots that are known for leaking into the valley???? I guess I better get used to this because i plan on keeping this truck forever! Lol I just hope i put this all back together with no new leaks..
not known to but possibly can!

live life full throttle
 

psduser1

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Hpop lines can leak at the oring connection.
The other problem, usually as the hose begins to fail-somewhere above 200k miles-is the crimp connection. It'll look "wet" all the time. If you actually clean the line, and it gets oily right away, change them. If you dont, you will end up with hpo everywhere, lol.
 

powerlifter405

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it can definitely come from that!! i believe golfer said that there are 22 or 23 different spots on top of the motor that can leak oil from a bad oring..

live life full throttle

Golfer is The 7.3 God IMHO and his shop is still working away on the 7.3 whereas other places have moved on to bigger and better things.

I want to say dieselorings carries orings in a higher grade than OEM. I was also doing some oring research and the hardness, durability, etc.. can vary significantly depending on the material/type. From what I found the difference in cost can be significant for just a single oring. With the pressures that the oil system uses I'd almost be for spending the $$ should the need arise to prevent future leaks down the road.
 

lincolnlocker

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Golfer is The 7.3 God IMHO and his shop is still working away on the 7.3 whereas other places have moved on to bigger and better things.

I want to say dieselorings carries orings in a higher grade than OEM. I was also doing some oring research and the hardness, durability, etc.. can vary significantly depending on the material/type. From what I found the difference in cost can be significant for just a single oring. With the pressures that the oil system uses I'd almost be for spending the $$ should the need arise to prevent future leaks down the road.
agreed!

live life full throttle
 

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