Kc 1.5 or 2 (stock sticks)
- Thread starter slc6oh
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Inwayovermyhead
Member
Yes, it does sound high... so I checked ATI website. They said up to 50 degrees per second, potentially. Even 50 degrees is staggering. In either case, heat is the number one trans/converter killer. I probably wouldn't rely on the gauge for the true temp on the starting line because you are boiling fluid in the converter as well.
You definitely had something wrong with your trans. I can stand on the brake and apply throttle and boost it up pretty damn easy. Your converter being in rough shape would certainly cause what you were seeing. Shouldn't have to wait that long for it to light up man. I really should drive mine and get video of it spooling for you.
No way in hell.
50 degrees is huge no doubt, but I still find it very hard to believe. Maybe right at the source of the heat? A gauge would never show it I suppose. I've seen some trucks take a while to really spool up, their temp would be in the thousands based on that "rule of thumb."
ok, back to this...
kc. 1.5 on stock injectors.
what kind of ebp and boost press, also egts could one expect.... made like 19psi on ex street and stock turbo, and 15-1600deg easily on ex street....
from my understanding the 1.5 uses the stock turbine housing and wheel, knowing that's the bottleneck, would the 1.5 be any better?
kc. 1.5 on stock injectors.
what kind of ebp and boost press, also egts could one expect.... made like 19psi on ex street and stock turbo, and 15-1600deg easily on ex street....
from my understanding the 1.5 uses the stock turbine housing and wheel, knowing that's the bottleneck, would the 1.5 be any better?
There is a lot of misinformation out there... I plan to do a write up and hopefully provide a little education later on.
The turbine housing is not going to be the bottle neck on a vgt turbo unless you want it to. You can literally adjust EBP/BOOST with the vanes to achieve desired ebp/boost.
Maybe this will make more sense. I ran 285/75s with a stage 1.5 on a reduced fuel tune and it ran about 1:1 at WOT on some tunes and 2:1 on others. You can literally desire more boost/ebp when you want to.
When I run a reduced fuel tune with my 205/30s and s362 it runs much higher than 2:1 at WOT. Nothing you can do about it except change turbine housings. On a full fuel tune I can hit a 3:1 ebp to boost ratio.
The stock turbine wheel from the 2004 turbo is plenty big for the stage 1.5 on stock injectors. I hope that helps.
that makes sense completely, my current 362 is about dead nuts 1:1, I know that's ideal, but at what ratio do you need to start to pucker ?
what about the 05+ turbine? say I get joey @ sob performance here in slc to get a 05+ 1.5 comin from ya, or would I be better off getting one with an 04 turbine?
I bet your s362 is not 1:1 at WOT above 3000rpms. You are just maxing out your stock ebp gauge (39psi).
We don't build our stage 1.5 out of 2005 turbine wheels. It makes the turbo more likely to surge, and you have less turbine flow on the top end.
ohhhhhhh I understood the website wrong. my apologies.
and one last vague ass question . lol. what about boost levels out of that 1.5?
Ideal and start to pucker is all a matter of preference.
There are "diminishing returns" when you start adding more ebp. But adding more ebp can bring in more boost which can bring in more power. But at some point you are going to be adding too much EBP and the extra boost will not NET any extra power.
A lot of guys get caught up in the boost/ebp thing. 90% of guys out there don't even need to worry about it. If you keep your EBP under 60psi then it really does not affect anything.
That is not to say that EBP has no affect. A 1:1 ratio at WOT can be better... but not always and also not gonna happen when running a smaller turbo without a wastegate.
40psi of boost with 50psi of ebp will make more power than 30psi boost with 30psi of ebp
There are "diminishing returns" when you start adding more ebp. But adding more ebp can bring in more boost which can bring in more power. But at some point you are going to be adding too much EBP and the extra boost will not NET any extra power.
A lot of guys get caught up in the boost/ebp thing. 90% of guys out there don't even need to worry about it. If you keep your EBP under 60psi then it really does not affect anything.
That is not to say that EBP has no affect. A 1:1 ratio at WOT can be better... but not always and also not gonna happen when running a smaller turbo without a wastegate.
40psi of boost with 50psi of ebp will make more power than 30psi boost with 30psi of ebp
Most standard tunes will run about 28-35psi
I have some race tunes that will squeeze 35-40psi out of them.
But if you are looking for more towing power... then you will only use about 20-28psi.
If you are seriously considering the switch... you need to realize that he stage 1.5 is going to come on a little sooner... but not make as much top end power as the s362. The s362 does AWESOME around 2400-2800rpms. Most torque I have seen out of any turbo so far in that range.
I agree with others that I would look into your torque converter/tranny issues before swapping turbos.
new converters restalled / fixed and all been installed for a going on two weeks now. its better off idle for sure, and I agree, truck has GOBS of power in that range.. but the hopes of being able to tow lower rpm, and with the winding hills, and my commute being at 55mph I feel like on stock injectors, I'm better off with a smaller vgt, in hopes of it "responding' better. I could be wrong, just trying to gather all info possible before dropping the coin ya know?
Have you tried a tune with a tow/haul OD lockout button? You can hold 5th indefinitely which should put you at 2100-2200rpms at 55mph.
Turbos don't like to be lugged. 55mph in OD is like 1600rpms. Most turbos don't like that range... but especially non-vgt turbos. Which is fine empty on flat ground. But I don't recommend anyone towing anything at that rpms with any turbo
Turbos don't like to be lugged. 55mph in OD is like 1600rpms. Most turbos don't like that range... but especially non-vgt turbos. Which is fine empty on flat ground. But I don't recommend anyone towing anything at that rpms with any turbo
oh I agree, flat ground, not towing, od and 55mph, maintain is about all it can do.
other part is id like as okay-ish fuel mileage when cruising like that as possible..
ill try the th button trick the next couple days, I'm pretty sure my srl+ drastically holds the d to od shift.
glass3222
New member
Charlie, what tunes are you seeing hit 35ish psi of boost on your 1.5 with stock sticks? I am only hitting 25-26 with mine with SRL+, SRLxx and Quick Trick Looney Wild (looney was made for stock turbo). The stage 1.5 definitely is flowing more air than stock, EGTs are much lower and mid range power is dramatically improved, but I think there should be more.
Last edited:
jeremiahmercier
Member
Not the same turbo, but I see just under 40 with my cast powermax, otherwise pretty stock other than tuning
06-6.0l, CCLB 4X4, studded, reworked heads, egr gone, cab reroute, blue spring mod, 6.4 banjos, updated dummy plugs, stand pipe, and stc fitting; New oil cooler, New ipr, New icp, atlas 40 FICM, powermax turbo, and Geerhead tunes, 325/65R18
06-6.0l, CCLB 4X4, studded, reworked heads, egr gone, cab reroute, blue spring mod, 6.4 banjos, updated dummy plugs, stand pipe, and stc fitting; New oil cooler, New ipr, New icp, atlas 40 FICM, powermax turbo, and Geerhead tunes, 325/65R18
Send me an email and I can get you set up with some new tunes.
[email protected]
More boost is "not always better" but 26psi is pretty low. You could also have something small wrong with the truck like a boost leak or exhaust leak.
glass3222
New member
Email sent, checked for boost and exhaust leaks, cannot find any
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