So hard to choose what turbo setup I want

[strokin6L]

Leave crank hub on. Just pull the rear cover off, pull hpop cover and pump off, pull branch tubes off....then you can get to the rear 4 lifters on each side. You only need to pull the crank hub if you wanna pull the cam out without removing the crank. But you're gonna hafta mark it so that the hub goes on exactly the same position it came off because the crank was balanced with the hub on it.

 

[ford rules]

Wow never knew the branch tubes had to come out. Good info!

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

Thanks! Heads are off now. I will gladly do this for peace of mind!

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

Leave crank hub on. Just pull the rear cover off, pull hpop cover and pump off, pull branch tubes off....then you can get to the rear 4 lifters on each side. You only need to pull the crank hub if you wanna pull the cam out without removing the crank. But you're gonna hafta mark it so that the hub goes on exactly the same position it came off because the crank was balanced with the hub on it.

One more quick question... When I first put engine on stand, before I knew better, I put impact on a few of the hub bolts but none would budge. Should I try to re torque them or just let them ride?

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

One more quick question... When I first put engine on stand, before I knew better, I put impact on a few of the hub bolts but none would budge. Should I try to re torque them or just let them ride?

What size impact? A healthy 1/2" gun will get them out no problem. If you're doing lifters, throw a Stage one cam in it. Totally worth it IMO.

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

What size impact? A healthy 1/2" gun will get them out no problem. If you're doing lifters, throw a Stage one cam in it. Totally worth it IMO.

Tried both my Blue Point 1/2" air impact and Dewalt 1/2" 18volt impact. Neither one would budge. I really don't want to tear down any further. Would I have to remove pan, bed plate, etc..., to install cam?

 

[strokin6L]

I was able to remove all the hub bolts with a battery powered 1/2" Snapon impact gun

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

I found it strange as well. So its ok to remove as long as it goes back in same position? Anybody know torque spec of bolts?

 

[bretferd]

Pretty sure those are tty bolts. So you would have to get new ones. Ford doesn't sell those because they are not suppose to be serviceable. They are the same bolts as the front crank bolts though. Not sure on the torque spec.

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

Pretty sure those are tty bolts. So you would have to get new ones. Ford doesn't sell those because they are not suppose to be serviceable. They are the same bolts as the front crank bolts though. Not sure on the torque spec.

Now that you say that, I think I remember hearing that. Most likely the cam dealer would supply those as part of the cam job, I'm assuming. If I don't have to remove pan and bed plate, I will most likely do the cam/lifters.

 

[strokin6L]

I will look later to see if I have torque specs for those hub bolts. I have tear down procedures and torque spec stuff.

 

[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

There isn't any specs because ford says you can't take it out they are TTY bolts so they need to be replaced. They are the same bolt as the front damper so you have to get 2 packs and torque to the same spec as the damper

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Tried both my Blue Point 1/2" air impact and Dewalt 1/2" 18volt impact. Neither one would budge. I really don't want to tear down any further. Would I have to remove pan, bed plate, etc..., to install cam?

Nope, pull the do not remove bolts, lifters, and slide the cam out. Swap gears and go back together. Get the ARP replacement bolts for the adapter from River City, they torque to 115 ft/lbs I think.

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

Sounds very doable. Is the gains from cam worth the effort? Im looking at 175's Barder stage 2, RR fuel system, possibly a ported intake and already have an Alradco intercooler on the way.

I should also say this will be my Daily Driver with an occasional 8k trailer. Wont see any Dyno's or Drag strip. I don't have a HP goal in mind, just want to do everything I can while the engine is out to make reliable power and not have to take engine back out for years to come.

 

[hawgdoctor]

They tell you it's non-servicable due to the fact that it is bolted to the crank and then machined. If you don't get it back in place right you'll never keep a rear main seal in it.

 

[strokin6L]

http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/inde...ategory_id=29&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
Here's the ARP crank shaft adapter/hub bolts from RCD.

 

[TBagAMouseTrap]

http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/inde...ategory_id=29&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
Here's the ARP crank shaft adapter/hub bolts from RCD.

I've never seen the factory bolts fail, even when reused.

 

[strokin6L]

No one ever said anything about them failing, but If they are TTY bolts...obviously they cant and are not suppose to be reused once removed.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Sounds very doable. Is the gains from cam worth the effort? Im looking at 175's Barder stage 2, RR fuel system, possibly a ported intake and already have an Alradco intercooler on the way.

I should also say this will be my Daily Driver with an occasional 8k trailer. Wont see any Dyno's or Drag strip. I don't have a HP goal in mind, just want to do everything I can while the engine is out to make reliable power and not have to take engine back out for years to come.

I think the cam is completely worth it. I saw a decent jump in MPGs, hand calculated 21 on the freeway. Spool up is way better and throttle is much more responsive.

 

[Inwayovermyhead]

I think the cam is completely worth it. I saw a decent jump in MPGs, hand calculated 21 on the freeway. Spool up is way better and throttle is much more responsive.

Can I ask which cam you used, and how is that AFe convertor performing?