Would you buy a 6.4 again?

[NY_Mott]

192k on my 08 F350 and I would trust it to go anywhere

Good to hear, I picked mine up at 98k in december. I now have 107,700. I have replaced the water pump and radiatior in this time, which is understandable. I hope I get many more years out of her.

Remember the selection bias you are getting from this forum (or others). Pretty much no one on PSA drives a stock truck. Many on here at least dyno their trucks if not sled pull and/or take it to the track, plus forums typically are a place where problems are posted. All makes and models have flaws...some more than others. All of them have horror stories (one problem after another) and ones that seem to be built like a brick sh#house). Some are cheaper to work on or fix than others. In my way of looking at, if you can't do without it (i.e. don't have a back up vehicle) or you can't afford to fix it if there is a catastrophic failure, you should probably own a cheaper vehicle or one with a warranty.

That is some good points to remember, I understand all modified things break and I am able to handle 90% of them just not 10K at a time lol.
Guess I will just need to build a chuck just for the o-**** chance it happens.
fingers crossed.

honestly daily driving it helps with reliability....and to be honest the trucks are reliable....many many many many, companies run 6.4's for landscaping and construction and many guys run them to plow with and tow their 5th wheel campers across the country with their wife and kids, and put a lot of miles on them 100% stock with little to no issues. most common i'd say is the radiator, maybe belt tensioner, a water pump...minor issues for the most part.

Some of these recent comments make me a little at ease, the trucks got all the job 1 corrections done and new water pump and radiator so hopefully I can just continue to keep up on maintenance and reliability mods and she will stay happy. next up is 100% going to be gearhead tunes, the shift points on the H&S hot suck IMO.

 

[RSK]

Good to hear, I picked mine up at 98k in december. I now have 107,700. I have replaced the water pump and radiatior in this time, which is understandable. I hope I get many more years out of her.



That is some good points to remember, I understand all modified things break and I am able to handle 90% of them just not 10K at a time lol.
Guess I will just need to build a chuck just for the o-**** chance it happens.
fingers crossed.



Some of these recent comments make me a little at ease, the trucks got all the job 1 corrections done and new water pump and radiator so hopefully I can just continue to keep up on maintenance and reliability mods and she will stay happy. next up is 100% going to be gearhead tunes, the shift points on the H&S hot suck IMO.

you will like gear head tuning, I run hot street everyday. when i bought my tuner, i ordered gear head tunes and never even ran sct tuning. I'm at 104k haven't done a water pump and haven't done a radiator yet. hopefully mine don't start leaking until 110k or later even.

 

[powerstrokin15]

honestly daily driving it helps with reliability....and to be honest the trucks are reliable....

mine was my daily driver, I put over 50k on it in a little over a year. lost a motor. got it back running, this time built all but rods, put 10k on it in like 3 months. lost another motor.

if you actually watch the amount of trucks that go in and out of our shop that are 6.4s, as well as if you know a ford tech, and ask him how many they recieve. 6.4s are seen more often that anything for major issues.

now yes 6.0s for injectors or head gaskets are a higher rate. but big deal. 3-4k and good for life. 10k+ at a time for a 6.4. no thanks. yes it's not every one, but if I could pick any truck, regardless of brand that was the least reliable and most cost expensive it'll be a 6.4. and a lot will agree


Eric@HoldersDiesel

 

[01PSD]

mine was my daily driver, I put over 50k on it in a little over a year. lost a motor. got it back running, this time built all but rods, put 10k on it in like 3 months. lost another motor.

if you actually watch the amount of trucks that go in and out of our shop that are 6.4s, as well as if you know a ford tech, and ask him how many they recieve. 6.4s are seen more often that anything for major issues.

now yes 6.0s for injectors or head gaskets are a higher rate. but big deal. 3-4k and good for life. 10k+ at a time for a 6.4. no thanks. yes it's not every one, but if I could pick any truck, regardless of brand that was the least reliable and most cost expensive it'll be a 6.4. and a lot will agree


Eric@HoldersDiesel

Yep.. I've seen multiple Ford techs say the same thing

 

[wiseguy]

Remember the selection bias you are getting from this forum (or others). Pretty much no one on PSA drives a stock truck. Many on here at least dyno their trucks if not sled pull and/or take it to the track, plus forums typically are a place where problems are posted. All makes and models have flaws...some more than others. All of them have horror stories (one problem after another) and ones that seem to be built like a brick sh#thouse). Some are cheaper to work on or fix than others. In my way of looking at, if you can't do without it (i.e. don't have a back up vehicle) or you can't afford to fix it if there is a catastrophic failure, you should probably own a cheaper vehicle or one with a warranty.

I needed reliability so I bought a New truck with a warranty I paid 107k for new f550 wrecker in 2008 I never tuned it deleted it nothing. My NEW 6.4 wrecker sat in the shop more than it was on the road. I sold that turd just before it was out of warranty. I don't think I should have to replace engines more often than my tires whether i can afford it or not

 

[Stroked777]

its safe to say that the 6.4s are hit or miss, local guy near me babied his 6.4 and ended up eating a trans, then with mine i run the hottest tune 24/7 and hook it to a sled... a bunch, trans still shifts like it did when i first tuned it at 53kmi

 

[RSK]

mine was my daily driver, I put over 50k on it in a little over a year. lost a motor. got it back running, this time built all but rods, put 10k on it in like 3 months. lost another motor.

if you actually watch the amount of trucks that go in and out of our shop that are 6.4s, as well as if you know a ford tech, and ask him how many they recieve. 6.4s are seen more often that anything for major issues.

now yes 6.0s for injectors or head gaskets are a higher rate. but big deal. 3-4k and good for life. 10k+ at a time for a 6.4. no thanks. yes it's not every one, but if I could pick any truck, regardless of brand that was the least reliable and most cost expensive it'll be a 6.4. and a lot will agree


Eric@HoldersDiesel

what went wrong the first time around and what went wrong the 2nd time around? my theory is do it right the first time and there won't be a second time, and by that, I mean don't take any short cuts. At least in the few experiences i had taking any kind of short cuts didn't ever save me any time or any money always cost more....as a matter of fact in life in general taking any shortcuts never did anything good. Just like buying knock off's never had good luck with them, so I always spend the money and buy the real thing....

 

[ramonpowerstroker]

Well mine I did everything new on top and studs and everything. Put a brand new hpfp, hpfp harness and all new injectors. Within 10 thousand miles that hpfp seal went out and when it did it filled the motor with +60 quarts of oil and diesel. Now beware this was just going to a school and that's it. I couldn't even drive it home.. Put a new hpfp and all new injectors again and within. 900 miles same ****. It has a regulated return and I make sure it dosent build pressure for the pump to give out like that. Well this time I I stopped it and drained another +60 quarts of fuel and oil. I pulled out the motor and all cam bearings spun and tore up the cam and sent cam bearing material everywhere. And I mean EVERYWHERE!!! Pistons had printings of cam bearing on them and the connecting rod bearings Got torn to pieces as well as the main bearings. Turbo was destroyed as well. With all the money I was gonna throw on this 6.4 I went and pulled out my 6.7. And to be honest it's a way better setup and way better designed truck than the 6.4.


bTw the heads were the only thing that didn't get destroyed.

 

[ramonpowerstroker]

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[ramonpowerstroker]

Also ran the truck to see if I had a line leaking and I did not have a line leaking even holding 24.5k of fuel psi. This was front the hpfp to the fuel rail and from the fuel rail to all injectors

 

[powerstrokin15]

what went wrong the first time around and what went wrong the 2nd time around? my theory is do it right the first time and there won't be a second time, and by that, I mean don't take any short cuts. At least in the few experiences i had taking any kind of short cuts didn't ever save me any time or any money always cost more....as a matter of fact in life in general taking any shortcuts never did anything good. Just like buying knock off's never had good luck with them, so I always spend the money and buy the real thing....

well for starters we are a reputable shop, which I'm sure some can agree. no short cuts. cracked a piston first. the block was honed and checked along with the heads, the pistons we're replaced stock bore IH coated pistons by haller (another reputable shop), colt cam, barder chargers, 30% nozzles that are the same brand every shop uses besides elite, some no limit parts, international gaskets, ARPs, a-1000 built by Marty, 6.0 exhaust manifolds and strokers uppipes, precision wastegate, stock HPFP with 50k miles that maintained perfect. injectors were all flowed at swamps diesel. all new rod, mains, everything you could think of, new cylinder coolant jets, new oil cooler, new rad. innovative live tuning.


please tell me where you see an expense was spared?

there was not, and never will be a shortcut taken on my truck. the other parts broken I have already listed. there's a reason my block has at least $500 extra in charges at the machine shop, I wanted it perfect. I have the new block, rods, and pistons. everything was honed and checked. my trucks been down for a while, if we or I took shortcuts do you think it'd be done quicker? yes im my truck may be bad luck or something, but it does not deny the fact of what has happened to the almighty 6.4

also, I'll say I may be taking it wrong, but if you're cutting at me for buying a totron "knockoff" light instead of the rigids, like you commented on Instagram. that does not remotely apply in this situation...


on edit: maybe I took it out of context, and if I did I apologize in advance. but it comes off as a jab of our shop or myself taking shortcuts or not doing things correctly. and our reputation isn't something i take lightly.


Eric@HoldersDiesel

 

[RSK]

well for starters we are a reputable shop, which I'm sure some can agree. no short cuts. cracked a piston first. the block was honed and checked along with the heads, the pistons we're replaced stock bore IH coated pistons by haller (another reputable shop), colt cam, barder chargers, 30% nozzles that are the same brand every shop uses besides elite, some no limit parts, international gaskets, ARPs, a-1000 built by Marty, 6.0 exhaust manifolds and strokers uppipes, precision wastegate, stock HPFP with 50k miles that maintained perfect. injectors were all flowed at swamps diesel. all new rod, mains, everything you could think of, new cylinder coolant jets, new oil cooler, new rad. innovative live tuning.


please tell me where you see an expense was spared?

there was not, and never will be a shortcut taken on my truck. the other parts broken I have already listed. there's a reason my block has at least $500 extra in charges at the machine shop, I wanted it perfect. I have the new block, rods, and pistons. everything was honed and checked. my trucks been down for a while, if we or I took shortcuts do you think it'd be done quicker? yes im my truck may be bad luck or something, but it does not deny the fact of what has happened to the almighty 6.4

also, I'll say I may be taking it wrong, but if you're cutting at me for buying a totron "knockoff" light instead of the rigids, like you commented on Instagram. that does not remotely apply in this situation...


on edit: maybe I took it out of context, and if I did I apologize in advance. but it comes off as a jab of our shop or myself taking shortcuts or not doing things correctly. and our reputation isn't something i take lightly.


Eric@HoldersDiesel

hmm not taking a jab at you or your shop. doesn't look like you took any short cuts or spared any expense. except not doing stronger rods. but i doubt a rod bent. or did it? so what broke? and totron light's vs rigid lights does not apply to this like you said. I would have done R&R rods the first time it was apart. Maybe you got a lemon? My mechanic was a top tech for the dealer around here and he's who i use for all my work. he's done Alot of 6.4 motors most are from construction company's that work the piss out of them and blow head gaskets and run them out of coolant and just keep driving them loaded at 10-12k everyday. some have injectors hang open and melt the motor, some have cracked pistons. Never has had any come back and need a second motor though. I'm buying a 12 or up 6.7 for my personal truck in a few years. but I'd buy another 6.4 for a work truck or toy.

 

[NY_Mott]

I have done a little looking and the jump from this 6.4 to a comparable 6.7 is way to much money right now so I will keep my fingers crossed with the intension of upgrading when funds permit down the road .

 

[RSK]

I have done a little looking and the jump from this 6.4 to a comparable 6.7 is way to much money right now so I will keep my fingers crossed with the intension of upgrading when funds permit down the road .

exactly wait a few years they will come down in price.

 

[sootie]

what went wrong the first time around and what went wrong the 2nd time around? my theory is do it right the first time and there won't be a second time, and by that, I mean don't take any short cuts. At least in the few experiences i had taking any kind of short cuts didn't ever save me any time or any money always cost more....as a matter of fact in life in general taking any shortcuts never did anything good. Just like buying knock off's never had good luck with them, so I always spend the money and buy the real thing....

you havent had a six four long enough...

 

[DEEZUZ]

Never owned one and never will LOL

I think Im right here with you... Although, quoting out a $17k engine job leaves some customers in disbelief... I feel I will have better luck with buying broken 6.4's than the 6.0's...

 

[B585Ford]

I needed reliability so I bought a New truck with a warranty I paid 107k for new f550 wrecker in 2008 I never tuned it deleted it nothing. My NEW 6.4 wrecker sat in the shop more than it was on the road. I sold that turd just before it was out of warranty. I don't think I should have to replace engines more often than my tires whether i can afford it or not

I don't disagree...the reason for my post was I don't want to see anyone get into financial trouble because they had a major engine failure. I have friends and family that have lost an engine or drivetrain with any brand (including Dmax and Cummins). These trucks are expensive to repair and that should be kept in mind when you buy it if it doesn't have a warranty. You and Eric (just to name a few) have had more than your fair share of problems with a 6.4 yet I have seen others be damn near bulletproof. In the end, 6.4s do have weak links...more than some other makes and models, but I do believe that in many instances if the weak links are addressed and you maintain it, it can be fairly reliable. I am not saying it will be more reliable than other makes and models.

 

[sootie]

it's a crapshoot.

 

[01pwrstkr]

Well I hope I get lucky and mine turns out ok. I can't really afford to replace the engine but I knew the risks when I bought it a few weeks ago. The only thing I've noticed so far is white smoke when raining or very humid. I've read and been told that its the stock intercooler getting moisture in it. If thats true could that be the cause of the pistons cracking in these engines? Just a thought. Soon as I save up enough im going to order a intercooler from Alradco and hopefully that'll fix it.

"3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead"

 

[Six_Sloww]

Well I hope I get lucky and mine turns out ok. I can't really afford to replace the engine but I knew the risks when I bought it a few weeks ago. The only thing I've noticed so far is white smoke when raining or very humid. I've read and been told that its the stock intercooler getting moisture in it. If thats true could that be the cause of the pistons cracking in these engines? Just a thought. Soon as I save up enough im going to order a intercooler from Alradco and hopefully that'll fix it.

"3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead"

If I'm not mistaken it's the boots, not the intercooler that causes that issue.

The pistons crack because they are flawed by design.