what luck

Buffalo444

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I still say go with hybrids (unless Farmers' 160's are hybrids) even if they are small 200/30, 200/80, 200/100's. Less oil required will save you money on a new HPOP in the end.
 

CSIPSD

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I still say go with hybrids (unless Farmers' 160's are hybrids) even if they are small 200/30, 200/80, 200/100's. Less oil required will save you money on a new HPOP in the end.

Dont see the need...

I've run stage 1's... Stage 2's... 238/80 and 238/100... 250/200 all with a stock HPOP...

The 160/100 injector would not tax the HPO system anymore then a set of 200cc hybrids.
 

Buffalo444

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Dont see the need...

I've run stage 1's... Stage 2's... 238/80 and 238/100... 250/200 all with a stock HPOP...

The 160/100 injector would not tax the HPO system anymore then a set of 200cc hybrids.

That's different than I've been told by the builders (Jim Rose, Bean, etc), but I guess they were also trying to make the biggest sale. lol
 

Nodge

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I highly doubt 160's will get you to 450 HP.
If you only want to run a 160, forget the polish, the cryo rods, rod bolts, and cam.
I wouldn't be surprised if my sig truck makes less than 450 horse with 238/100's.
 

under pressure

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Idk, will see, Tuning is key.
160s have made anywhere from 400 to 480 on Beans dyno I've read, the 480 was considered a freak of nature.

As injectors are pretty much the last item to go in, they could get bigger, if I find a good deal on here as I see quite often. Will see.

I don't get the opinion that overbuilding is a waste of time and money. I'll keep looking around at what guys have or don't have and go from there.
Thanks all !
 

CSIPSD

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Idk, will see, Tuning is key.
160s have made anywhere from 400 to 480 on Beans dyno I've read, the 480 was considered a freak of nature.

As injectors are pretty much the last item to go in, they could get bigger, if I find a good deal on here as I see quite often. Will see.

I don't get the opinion that overbuilding is a waste of time and money. I'll keep looking around at what guys have or don't have and go from there.
Thanks all !

Because it is...

Unless you have a complete crap tuner (which there are not many of them left) you dont need any of that crap.

Hell I have my wifes Excursion with 160's and a 38R on PMR's...

Not worried in the slightest. Not even a little bit.
 

under pressure

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Excursion with 160's and a 38R on PMR's... (lightly tuned & driven ?

That thought crossed my mind.... but I drive the snot out of my truck, I don't care to take the risk.
I spend a lot of time off road in the desert, so a busted rod is something I cant deal with 30 miles from no where.
Will just see what happends, if I end up going bigger because of a good deal, then its all good.
I'd rather build and have room for growth. Just me I guess
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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Joe, there's no "need", youre right. But, adding more oil volume makes the truck so much snappier and fun to drive. I thought my 250/80's were fine on the stock pump but damn did the second pump really wake the truck up!

On edit- the truck my engine went into (with the dual pumps still) is running 160cc a codes on stock nozzles, and there is a definite improvement in off-boost torque and also top-end pull with the dual oil pump setup
 
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lincolnlocker

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as stated already, none of that bottom build or cam or porting is needed on hp goals as little as your wanting.... its your money and your gonna do what you want anyway. i understand trying to bullet proof your motor also... im one of the guys who has the "freak" trucks as mine did 492.6 hp on beans dyno with a 38r, 170/100s, adrenaline, and a walbro pump... no thats not gonna happen on most trucks. the 38r has been proven and is a tough little turbo that has taken a ton of abuse and keeps rocking on many trucks even with larger injectors... stock bottom forged motors have been proven time and time again at under 600 hp and daily driven and towed with... like i said do what you want but theres many guys on here with way more knowledge then me about this.... just trying to save you money.... now if your goal was a 600+hp dd or competition truck then by all means build it...
 

CSIPSD

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Excursion with 160's and a 38R on PMR's... (lightly tuned & driven ?

That thought crossed my mind.... but I drive the snot out of my truck, I don't care to take the risk.
I spend a lot of time off road in the desert, so a busted rod is something I cant deal with 30 miles from no where.
Will just see what happends, if I end up going bigger because of a good deal, then its all good.
I'd rather build and have room for growth. Just me I guess

LOL...

"lightly driven..."

Someone needs to come take a ride in the passanger seat with my wife. She will outdrive about 80% of the guys on this site.

As I said, its your money, just telling you what you "need" vs what you think you need.

Joe, there's no "need", youre right. But, adding more oil volume makes the truck so much snappier and fun to drive. I thought my 250/80's were fine on the stock pump but damn did the second pump really wake the truck up!

On edit- the truck my engine went into (with the dual pumps still) is running 160cc a codes on stock nozzles, and there is a definite improvement in off-boost torque and also top-end pull with the dual oil pump setup

I'm sorry but no dual pump set up is worth the cost IMHO vs the HP gain.

Just a fact.

If 160's are not enough for you then step up to a set of 250's...250/200 with a stock 17* will still out HP a truck with a set of 160/100 with dual HPOP's.
 

under pressure

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So what I gather, which is hard to swallow....a bone stock rebuild with studs will reliably stay together at 550 ?????
 

CSIPSD

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So what I gather, which is hard to swallow....a bone stock rebuild with studs will reliably stay together at 550 ?????



Who said that?

I will say this...

I have over 60k on a 100% stock 170k USED motor... With 250/200, Modded H2e and water injection, with ARP studs...

I drive it hard every day, from one end of the country to the other...

This is not 2007... DP tuner is not tuning your motor...

There is NO reason to do a build like you are talking about for 160's... Or 238's... OR even 250's.
 

moose99psd

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Who said that?

I will say this...

I have over 60k on a 100% stock 170k USED motor... With 250/200, Modded H2e and water injection, with ARP studs...

I drive it hard every day, from one end of the country to the other...

This is not 2007... DP tuner is not tuning your motor...

There is NO reason to do a build like you are talking about for 160's... Or 238's... OR even 250's.

ive ridden with him, ive seen how he drives it and i know how he tells me to drive it... TUNING IS KEY. that truck takes a beating and comes back for more time and time again. he dyno'd at just shy of 500
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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I know you're set with your opinion and not normally open to hearing new ideas, however i didnt do it for the peak HP gain (although i did pick up over 60hp)

It was night and day difference driving on the street 99% of the time when i wasnt making the peak HP, just driving it on the street having a good time like 99% of us do.
 

indyF-350psd

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I know you're set with your opinion and not normally open to hearing new ideas, however i didnt do it for the peak HP gain (although i did pick up over 60hp)

It was night and day difference driving on the street 99% of the time when i wasnt making the peak HP, just driving it on the street having a good time like 99% of us do.

couldnt agree more.....totally makes a difference....
 

lincolnlocker

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Who said that?

I will say this...

I have over 60k on a 100% stock 170k USED motor... With 250/200, Modded H2e and water injection, with ARP studs...

I drive it hard every day, from one end of the country to the other...

This is not 2007... DP tuner is not tuning your motor...

There is NO reason to do a build like you are talking about for 160's... Or 238's... OR even 250's.

even valve springs joe?

reason i ask is im sure i drive my truck just as hard and drive it hard even with my 10k lb fifth wheel on the back and mine is 100% bone stock but ive bent 7 pushrods and think im on my 8th now.... which is why its going under the knife and the heads are gonna get freshened up and valve springs added....
 

CSIPSD

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even valve springs joe?

reason i ask is im sure i drive my truck just as hard and drive it hard even with my 10k lb fifth wheel on the back and mine is 100% bone stock but ive bent 7 pushrods and think im on my 8th now.... which is why its going under the knife and the heads are gonna get freshened up and valve springs added....

I have 910's, but no shims...
 

CSIPSD

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I know you're set with your opinion and not normally open to hearing new ideas, however i didnt do it for the peak HP gain (although i did pick up over 60hp)

It was night and day difference driving on the street 99% of the time when i wasnt making the peak HP, just driving it on the street having a good time like 99% of us do.

couldnt agree more.....totally makes a difference....

I don't think I have ever said it doesn't make a difference, however it does NOT make a $1500 difference.

I drive my truck 500-700 a week, I have no use for an oil system. If I were to blow a pump up I would install a SRP, simply because its a good upgrade, great warranty, otherwise the stock pump will stay there.
 

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