what luck

powerstrokenstang

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My granddads "99" is a 2/98 build date.

I personally love stage 2 injectors (160/100's). Great all around performance. I put down 420 in a dd program in my sd w stock fuel, oil and air and that file barely hazes wot. Tow great too.
 
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A 98? Hm...
E99 motors where built in 98.. my E99 truck was built in 3/98 and has a 1/98 built motor.

OP
if you plan to go bigger down the road.. get a good set of hybrids with a T-4 turbo mount now..it will make life so much better down the road ...200% nozles seem to be the best for tuning as well...
 
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under pressure

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238/200s

gated S366

-uses less oil = more oil up top
-ease of tuning to meet goal
-ease of upgrading chargers down the road and setting new goal.
 

under pressure

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Thanks for all the input and choices. The budget is to throw 600 $ per month at the motor till its in the truck.
 

bad12jr

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Check out the ford rebuild kit that riff Raff offers. Seems like a good deal to me and has all ford gaskets.

Sent from my x2 somewhere
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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I would just say go with 160/80s' and stay with your original goal. You went from just being happy to not have PMR's anymore, to "238/200" in a few pages. Totally different ballgame there
 

under pressure

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After all the input, I did make my punch list.
These guys make very convincing arguments, and cause dreams of hp as they type, however I have reverted closer to my orig. Plan.

riffraff rebuild kit, .020 over
Stage 1 gear head cam
Hand polished heads
Comp 910s
Push rods
ARP Head studs
ARP Main studs
ARP rod bolts
Cryo the rods
Farmers 160/100s
S366
Irate RR

This keeps with my orig. goal somewhat, should still make 450ish +/-
along with some boost juice and beat up on my buddies VE Cummins and 6 leaker.
I won't be at the bottom if the Dyno list and should be able to make a decent pull on the local sled.
 
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under pressure

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Those ? you'd be referring to someones opinion on farmers Diesel whom builds big boy pulling injectors and his price is unbeatable. All my opinion.......
I'm just not one to buy into a name though I'm sure there good, but performance parts fail, its the way it is.
I like rosewoods too, I've even helped build a set that have been running strong for 2 years when he was doing DIY kits. Its not rocket science, more like a cool puzzle with an attention to detail.
A reman performance injector is just that.
I'm sending my 03 splits in to have done. So we will see how it goes.
 

TRUBBS

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Those ? you'd be referring to someones opinion on farmers Diesel whom builds big boy pulling injectors and his price is unbeatable. All my opinion.......
I'm just not one to buy into a name though I'm sure there good, but performance parts fail, its the way it is.
I like rosewoods too, I've even helped build a set that have been running strong for 2 years when he was doing DIY kits. Its not rocket science, more like a cool puzzle with an attention to detail.
A reman performance injector is just that.
I'm sending my 03 splits in to have done. So we will see how it goes.

I think I seen a few threads of them being garbage injectors tho.

And honestly, just go 238/200 you will not regret it!
Have them de-tuned to something a stg 2 160 will do In all setting other then 1 hot tune for dyno/pulling...
 

under pressure

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There is/was a certain set that has issues, they had a weird name, no size associated.
Just me, detuning to something smaller is a waste of $$. As is, I don't see my needs any more than 400 to 480 hp. down here. If I lived up north probably be a different story.

Do appreciate the input.
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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You dont need the rod bolts, nor the main studs. Save the "hand polishing" of the heads, and if you do anything just do some light porting on the bowls of the ports around the valve stem and the beginning of the runners. I spent some time matching the mis-matched casting lip to the edge of the valve seats. some of them were relatively pretty far off
 

under pressure

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You dont need the rod bolts, nor the main studs. Save the "hand polishing" of the heads, and if you do anything just do some light porting on the bowls of the ports around the valve stem and the beginning of the runners. I spent some time matching the mis-matched casting lip to the edge of the valve seats. some of them were relatively pretty far off


I was generally speaking, but ya, I haven't seen what they look like yet,
probably a mild port & clean up, just nice clean and even all the way around.
As far as all the bolts go, I'm replacing them no matter, might as well get good stuff.
 

CSIPSD

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You dont need the rod bolts, nor the main studs. Save the "hand polishing" of the heads, and if you do anything just do some light porting on the bowls of the ports around the valve stem and the beginning of the runners. I spent some time matching the mis-matched casting lip to the edge of the valve seats. some of them were relatively pretty far off

Agreed...

I was generally speaking, but ya, I haven't seen what they look like yet,
probably a mild port & clean up, just nice clean and even all the way around.
As far as all the bolts go, I'm replacing them no matter, might as well get good stuff.

Its your money to do with as you want, but your pissing your money away.

Honestly, look at what guys are recommending to you, then look at there sig's and past history...

Most of the guys telling you to stick with 160's, stock rebuild and some headstuds have been there done that.

You dont have to listen to me, lord knows I have been wrong a few times and paid for it, but the reason why I suggest what I do is I have been wrong, I have paid for it, and I have learned what works and doesn't.
 

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