How to make power in a 7.3

Jbenso127 · Dec 6, 2012

Ok so i have a friend with a 2000 CCSB 7.3 auto. He wants power and loves ford but does not think a 7.3 can make power... So he is talking about a cummins swap..

:lame::badidea::shrug: I am trying to convince him to not go that route because 7.3s are capable of making power.. I just dont really know my stuff to well on them to tell him a good setup..

Long story short.. if i can find him a good setup that makes some good power.. i can keep him from becoming another one of those fummins guys..

Can yall help me out?

Magnum PD · Dec 6, 2012

How much power is he wanting? What kind of money is he wanting to spend?

Lang · Dec 6, 2012

^ whs need a lot more info than provided

Jbenso127 · Dec 7, 2012

Well he is willing to do a newer 5.9 common rail swap.. so if that gives you an idea of the money that is willing to be spent.. i would say, a reliable 600-650ish number. Trans will be first on the list.

Slate · Dec 7, 2012

Reliable 600-650. That's pricey. It is hit or miss going the easy route.

I'm looking to do the same thing, but I don't know what all i'm doing.

This is my list:
Push rods
Comp cam valve springs
H11 head studs
250/200s
S467
Irate turbo mount kit
Fuel system (DIY)
Hpop (SRP1.1, Terminator, adrenaline)
Plus like you said, transmission.

To be reliable, probably Crower billet rods and a girdle (both run about 2500-3000).

Jbenso127 · Dec 7, 2012

Do you think rods and girdle would be necessary at 600ish? I know ive seen them in trucks upwards of 800-1000.. i just dont know the limits of the stock forged rods in the 2000s.'

Also how would you recommend doing a fuel system on that truck?

Black 02 · Dec 7, 2012

Jbenso127 said:
Do you think rods and girdle would be necessary at 600ish? I know ive seen them in trucks upwards of 800-1000.. i just dont know the limits of the stock forged rods in the 2000s.'

Also how would you recommend doing a fuel system on that truck?

Stock forged rods I've seen handle anywhere from stock to 750hp. It's just a matter of when they go.

If you want that kind of horsepower to last, go with rods and a girdle.

The girdle is not $3k. A gridle is under $1k.

Slate · Dec 7, 2012

Black 02 said:
Stock forged rods I've seen handle anywhere from stock to 750hp. It's just a matter of when they go.

If you want that kind of horsepower to last, go with rods and a girdle.

The girdle is not $3k. A gridle is under $1k.

Can you link the girdle? I'd like to pick it up lol.

Jbenso127 · Dec 7, 2012

Slate said:
Reliable 600-650. That's pricey. It is hit or miss going the easy route.

I'm looking to do the same thing, but I don't know what all i'm doing.

This is my list:
Push rods
Comp cam valve springs
H11 head studs
250/200s
S467
Irate turbo mount kit
Fuel system (DIY)
Hpop (SRP1.1, Terminator, adrenaline)
Plus like you said, transmission.

To be reliable, probably Crower billet rods and a girdle (both run about 2500-3000).

What are we talkin total price wise with this setup, and going with 300/200s instead of 250/200s?

Black 02 said:
Stock forged rods I've seen handle anywhere from stock to 750hp. It's just a matter of when they go.

If you want that kind of horsepower to last, go with rods and a girdle.

The girdle is not $3k. A gridle is under $1k.

do they make anything like a bed plate that you see in 6.0/6.4s? Or just the girdles? or are they essentially the same?

Powerstroked162 · Dec 7, 2012

Slate said:
Can you link the girdle? I'd like to pick it up lol.

Here ya go:

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23477

.

Slate · Dec 7, 2012

Jbenso127 said:
Do you think rods and girdle would be necessary at 600ish? I know ive seen them in trucks upwards of 800-1000.. i just dont know the limits of the stock forged rods in the 2000s.'

Also how would you recommend doing a fuel system on that truck?

You can buy fuel system kits. I just bought a Aeromotive A1000 pump, Fuel labs regulator, 2 filter bases, Pre and post pump filters, bigger fuel lines, and a sump kit. You don't need a sump, you could just do a 5/8" pickup tube.

Codydiesel · Dec 7, 2012

Would main studs and a half filled block be a cheap way to get out of a girdle without losing daily driver status and what about delipped pistons at that level?

JDub · Dec 7, 2012

Codydiesel said:
Would main studs and a half filled block be a cheap way to get out of a girdle without losing daily driver status and what about delipped pistons at that level?

I'd do the girdle before block fill. Gotta keep those mains from moving

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

Codydiesel · Dec 7, 2012

I taught that they still had issues with girdles with main walking since it was just tieing the mains together and not tieing the mains and the block together like a bed plate but I maybe wrong

Slate · Dec 7, 2012

Codydiesel said:
Would main studs and a half filled block be a cheap way to get out of a girdle without losing daily driver status and what about delipped pistons at that level?

You could half fill the block, but you have to be careful to watch temps.

Slate · Dec 7, 2012

Russeliyoo said:
Inventory created facilitates I've seen handle anywhere from stock to 750hp. It's just a problem of when they go.

If you want that kind of energy to last, go with facilitates and a girdle.

The girdle is not $2.5k. A gridle is undoubteldy under $1k.

Link?