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No need for replacing the shifter handle. I stripped a network cable and simply replaced the wires. I reinforced the wires where they enter. Did that about 3 years ago and haven't had another problem. Cost was nothing but about an hour of my time.

Sump and pre-pump filter

I would guess injectors are getting tired. Also, just because you are manually controlling the gpr (silly idea) that doesn't mean it's working properly. My gpr was working like a champ, but the contacts were so burnt that no power was going to the gp's. Hook an LED up to the gp side of the...

Just a guess. I know "open"contacts are prone to build up, and since his chip was working for so long, it makes a little sense. They're not prone to wear, but a little oxidation goes a long way

Put the chip back in, try again. Could be a little corrosion on the contacts. If putting the chip back in works, I suggest pulling the PCM and taking care of the corrosion before it becomes problematic.

EBPV - Exhaust Back Pressure Valve It's on the turbo pedestal. A buzz test will take more than an auto store scan tool. Auto Enginuity is the popular choice, but any "shop grade" diagnostic tool should do it. It sends electrical signals to your injectors to make sure the electronics are...

I'll keep that in mind. It hasn't occurred since. Maybe I started the truck right when the computer was thinking about something else. She got mad, and let me know it. :shrug: At least, at this time, it's not a ghost issue.

Anti-freeze doesn't eat bearing material. The amount of oil being replaced with coolant eats the bearings. Water is a poor lubricant, and that will tear up bearings mighty quick. Personally, I say pull the motor and replace the bearings. But, you may have done no damage. Fix the leak...

What's the loss of power? Is it sluggish all around or at certain RPM's / times? Is it chipped? Is loss of power noticed on all settings? Have you tried removing it? Are your up-pipes leaking? Any change in boost? Have you checked for a dragging caliper? Are any codes being thrown? How...

First, this was a temp problem that hasn't yet repeated itself. Hop in the truck last night, stop off at the convenience store. Got back in my truck, backed out of the parking spot, and tried to drive off. Nothing happened when I hit the throttle. Flipped switch to different positions, same...

For an inconspicuous push button, I've seen plenty of old school guys remove the latching mechanism from the old floor "brights" switch and wire it in to the starter. Works great, last long time. You'll just have to modify your floor board to accommodate it. The rest of the "key on" wires...

Have you checked the relays yet? After finding no bad fuses, testing the switch as good, testing the motor, and finally breaking into the manual, i found the relays, and sure enough, one was bad. Worked like a champ one day, next day nothing.

I soldered some wire to a 9v and used that to test my motor. Won't lock the t-case, but the motor will move back and forth some, proving it's not burnt.

The truck can run on 4. Not good, and you will think something is horribly wrong, but it can run. There are way too many other things to cause a no start to jump to bad injectors. Simple check list: Is the oil within full tolerance? Is there smoke when you crank? Is the HPOP level w/in 1"...

If not, there are two relays under the hood, drivers side, close to the firewall. They're under the lid closest to the master cylinder. One relay is for engage, the other for disengage. Swap them around, see if that fixes it. If so, replace both.

No need to watch it intently, but it's important to have handy if you're towing heavy, towing in the hills, or playing around with power tunes. Towing is the biggest thing, as you're constantly putting heavy load on the engine. It's real easy to creep up into bad EGT territory when towing...

Yep, both Siberian. We got Ares while stationed in Turkey, and Jade joined us here in GA.

Pups working out: Ares' first camel encounter: