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Badass buddy.

Looks awesome, and its unique too.

Long gone, sorry man.

This would not be for a street set up FYI, but your question has a lot of variables. Fuel and engine set up being the two main ones. For competition use the 1.10 would be the better choice for big fuel, where the .90 is better for drivability in a street truck application.

No works great for that, pointless if all you're trying to do is get it to lock third when driving. It only locks it in WOT runs.

1-2-3-4-5 is how it reads, and 3rd only locks in the position 6 ( IIRC ) setting. And it only locks 3rd under full throttle in the upper RPM's.

There has bee a few swaps where the floor and firewall were cut out and left on the frame. Then the older body having the firewall and floor cut out and then dropped onto the newer floor and chassis. Then you get the new interior and a lot less headaches with wiring. Just fill the gaps with some...

From what I understand they both do, but I haven't really heard much on the V2 leaking. I did my cab mounts, thermostats, complete drain and flush and coolant degas bottle at the same time. Even went with an expensive ELC coolant. But this issue is more the chassis than the radiator, like I said...

I don't think its so much the radiators fault as it is just trying to make one that will last in this flexing chassis. They all fail OEM included, but making one that can withstand the forces being opposed on to it will be the key. Its almost like it needs to be built more like a chassis brace...

My stock ones ( had two ) lasted about 100k miles each. But I do like the idea of added cooling capacity, hopefully this V2 will do the trick.

Nothing that would make it any faster or produce more power. You lost 2mm, nothing to change at all.

My V1 leaked after about 5 months of use. Mishimoto was not only easy to deal with they also got me a V2 replacement in just 4 days from CA to TX. That's pretty good customer service. These trucks are hard to keep a radiator in for some reason. I've gone through two stock ones and now one...

There's literally nothing in the tuning to change from that turbo swap.

I'll have to take some, that's really all the pictures I took of it. Below is a list though. FASS PN # FL-1001 ( 14' ) FASS PN # FL-1002 ( 14' ) FASS PN # STK-5500BO Fuelab PN # 083-71502 Earl's PN # 361-9919EFG Earl's PN # 361-921108 Vibrant PN # 22006 Vibrant PN # 16456 Vibrant PN #...

Very cool, good work guys.

Yeah, its a Vibrant Performance part.

A port on the Y block.

That's the fuel temp sensor. And I'd say some where around 5k miles. As long as you know you're not pumping more than 10psi it should be fine. I did it unregulated as an experiment just to see, and it never goes over 8psi so I left it that way.

Its run from the FASS to a Y block, then straight to the HPFP. The return from the heads and the HPFP are tied together and go straight to a bulkhead fittimng in the tank. I replaced all the factory lines from tank to motor and back to tank.

The HPFP doesn't like more than 10 PSI, seals will start leaking. Keep it below that. My FASS only puts out 7 psi right out of the box and that's plenty. I don't even have a regulator on it, just plumbed straight to the HPFP. You guys should look at the size of the hole your trying to shove all...