01 tow rig and dd injectors

[Jacob 76]

My 97 powerstroke has spiraled out of control and become a complete toy with a back half and 4 links so I had to buy another pickup. Its an 01 cclb has a mildly built trans (I installed it so I know what was done; billet converter, etc) I completely rebuilt the front end, ball joint, brakes, unit bearings, etc, and at this point have a basically roadworthy pickup that gets from A to B. I have a few questions about the reliability to power ratio.

I need injectors but don't want to buy them more than once. So whats the biggest injector that, A - could be supplied by the factory oil system (until I can afford to upgrade to a t-500 or similar). B - still tow upwards of 15,000 lbs (with the correct turbo's) but still be able to be de-tuned enough to make the stock turbo live for a while.

I know some other things will go along with this but specifically what, I don't know. So what other things do I need to start saving for like valve springs, push rods, I already have all the stuff to do a regulated return, etc.

I searched and found a few threads about the biggest injectors you could tow with and biggest turbo and things like that but I know what I'm looking for is pretty specific.

 

[mattman347]

Biggest on a stock or drop in pump would be 250/100. Biggest you can yow with depends on the tuning. I tow with my 340/200's and 468 turbo all the time.

 

[mustube]

With it being an 01 I would check what rods you have before you decide. If you have pmrs and don't want to swap forged rods in, I have pis 175/100s tuned down a bit with a stock turbo/ww2. I think it's a good combo but would be better with a bigger turbo to make full use of all of the fuel available and my icp is rock solid with a stock hpop.

 

[Enslow]

There's a couple guys on here running 238's on the stock pump and can get around 500hp with supporting mods. But if you plan on going bigger the 250's might be what your looking for.

 

[Jacob 76]

Wow, thanks guys, that was fast. 500hp would be way more than enough. I just need something that can tow but still enough to pass on 2 lanes and stuff like that. I'm no stranger to building engines, but I don't want to have to tear into the bottom end of this one so whatever rods it has are going to stay in it. I'm sure its on here somewhere but I'm already typing so, how do I tell what rods are in it?

 

[ja_cain]

5/16 pipe plug on driver side under right side of oil filter mount pad. Nuts/studs indicate forged. Bolts indicate pmr.

 

[bruce]

PIS 160/30

 

[Dan V]

PIS 160/30

/\...what he said.

 

[psduser1]

Wrong thread! Mispost

 

[CSIPSD]

PIS 160/30

Agreed for a great 400-450hp Daily driver that wont break everything...

I made 570hp on a wore out 17* hpop with 250/200's years ago... You dont NEED a hpop for normal injectors

 

[Jacob 76]

Good deal, thanks guys. Looks like I'll be going with 160/100s.

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

Good deal, thanks guys. Looks like I'll be going with 160/100s.

Just a quick question for you.

Why run a 160/100 when our 160/30's will flow the same 160cc until you reach a PW less than 3ms?? @ less than 3.0 we begin to lower out put slightly. And show me a tuner that asks less than a max of 3.0 in any kind of street truck. Many still push up to 4ms+

So eccentrically you are putting a 100% up against a 30% for the aspect of atomization. Which do you think atomizes fuel better??

We posted visual proof and explained this until we are blue in the face. But people just think they have to have a 100% nozzle :shrug:.

We have had more people happier with our 160/30's than anything close to it "size wise" on the market. For that point we have actually seen our 160/30's outflow some 160/100's on the bench before. Depends on what you buy and from whom you buy it.

Some people/builders still only believe there is nothing more to injectors than cut pistons and different sized nozzles....................:doh:

 

[jwlandry]

Fwiw, I have 175/80s from PIS and a s366 and its a towing monster. Even without a trailer it runs cool and gets great milage.

 

[Freightshaker]

Just a quick question for you.

Why run a 160/100 when our 160/30's will flow the same 160cc until you reach a PW less than 3ms?? @ less than 3.0 we begin to lower out put slightly. And show me a tuner that asks less than a max of 3.0 in any kind of street truck. Many still push up to 4ms+

So eccentrically you are putting a 100% up against a 30% for the aspect of atomization. Which do you think atomizes fuel better??

We posted visual proof and explained this until we are blue in the face. But people just think they have to have a 100% nozzle :shrug:.

We have had more people happier with our 160/30's than anything close to it "size wise" on the market. For that point we have actually seen our 160/30's outflow some 160/100's on the bench before. Depends on what you buy and from whom you buy it.

Some people/builders still only believe there is nothing more to injectors than cut pistons and different sized nozzles....................:doh:

Would your 200/80 paired with an s366 be a great combo (with proper tuning) for something such as this?

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

The main difference between our recommendation of our 175/80 and 200/80 is the HPOP. If you have or wish to stay stock, go with the small hybrid 200's. We have seen customers with stock hpop and our 200's hold 3000+ ICP. If you have an upgraded or plan on upgrading the HPOP go with the 175's. They both produce very similar power #'s. The difference is the design, 175's are A codes and the 200's are hybrids. And there total power output is very similar.

I would not recommend them as a everyday (HEAVY) tow rig unless upgraded turbo(s) are in use.

The 160/30's are a perfect replacement in a stock hpop/turbo truck.

 

[Freightshaker]

The main difference between our recommendation of our 175/80 and 200/80 is the HPOP. If you have or wish to stay stock, go with the small hybrid 200's. We have seen customers with stock hpop and our 200's hold 3000+ ICP. If you have an upgraded or plan on upgrading the HPOP go with the 175's. They both produce very similar power #'s. The difference is the design, 175's are A codes and the 200's are hybrids. And there total power output is very similar.

I would not recommend them as a everyday (HEAVY) tow rig unless upgraded turbo(s) are in use.

The 160/30's are a perfect replacement in a stock hpop/turbo truck.

Op asked-
"So whats the biggest injector that, A - could be supplied by the factory oil system?"

If he planned on upgrading turbo wouldn't going with the 200/80's save him from upgrading oil and be the biggest useable injector? He said he planned on turbo upgrade, could it be detuned until a turbo upgrade? If he saved the money on oil since a stock pump is ok with your 200/80s that money would go a long way towards a turbo upgrade.

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

Op asked-
"So whats the biggest injector that, A - could be supplied by the factory oil system?"

If he planned on upgrading turbo wouldn't going with the 200/80's save him from upgrading oil and be the biggest useable injector? He said he planned on turbo upgrade, could it be detuned until a turbo upgrade? If he saved the money on oil since a stock pump is ok with your 200/80s that money would go a long way towards a turbo upgrade.

YES, the biggest factor after that is tuning.

I have seen tuning make and break a truck with nothing but a tuning change.

 

[PABowhunter]

The main difference between our recommendation of our 175/80 and 200/80 is the HPOP. If you have or wish to stay stock, go with the small hybrid 200's. We have seen customers with stock hpop and our 200's hold 3000+ ICP. If you have an upgraded or plan on upgrading the HPOP go with the 175's. They both produce very similar power #'s. The difference is the design, 175's are A codes and the 200's are hybrids. And there total power output is very similar.

I would not recommend them as a everyday (HEAVY) tow rig unless upgraded turbo(s) are in use.

The 160/30's are a perfect replacement in a stock hpop/turbo truck.

Tim, can you expound a little on when the 175/80 would be better than the 200/80. If the 200/80 hybrids require less oil and have more volume then when is the A-code 175/80 a better choice?

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

Tim, can you expound a little on when the 175/80 would be better than the 200/80. If the 200/80 hybrids require less oil and have more volume then when is the A-code 175/80 a better choice?

To put it an easy perspective, we will flow both 175 A code and 200 hybrid side by side both with 80% nozzle. If the PW is short enough not to allow the 175 to empty the 175 injector will always out put more fluid in the test. This translates into a higher injection pressure for the 175.

A higher injection pressure will always equal better atomization. This in turn equals better mileage, more HP and cleaner/more complete burn (less smoke).

We have been given dyno results by one tuner on one dyno of the 175's @ 490's and the 200's at 510's. Seems like a small increase for such a larger difference in fuel output. Hmmmm.

 

[Freightshaker]

Tim, can you expound a little on when the 175/80 would be better than the 200/80. If the 200/80 hybrids require less oil and have more volume then when is the A-code 175/80 a better choice?

I have also been wondering this also. Why you would choose a 1XX/(X)XX injector in a mild build over the 200/80 he offers. Another thought i have is with proper tuning is 200/80 a very wise choice on a PMR engine vs. 1XX/(X)XX?