2004 6.0 shut off when warm and I have a scangauge2

[Cgrigson1]

So I got back on it yesterday. Did pretty serious harness inspection and plugged all the sensor back in and started it up and built pressure fairly quickly and was running good. So I backed it out and went three blocks away to ck on my guys and ran and shifted and had usuall power. It warmed up. Went for a highway test which is less than a mile from where I live and it shut off conveniently again right to where I could coast into a parking lot. Using my scan gauge saw 3000 psi while hammering on it and when I tried to restart was slow to build pressure and IPR was up. Leak? Did pressure test when I got home thru ICP and saw vapors coming out of oil fill tube and could hear air from my turbo for I had taken off the tubes from the air filter. Retested once I realized I should pull oil filter out and listen and heard bubbles there. pulled valve cover off where I heard on drivers side and sounds like air was coming out of the back injector 8 which I had just had out to replace the connector.
My plan tomorrow is to pull oil rail off and inspect that side and insure injector is seated properly and o ring is in tack. Dummy plug o rings were fine and I'll inspect stand pipe rings as well. Then retest

 

[Cgrigson1]

ICP and IPR were just replaced please Jesus not a cracked head!

 

[Cgrigson1]

The codes I pulled today were eot sensor low voltage which I'm stil not sure is plugged right, it seats but doesn't click, fuel volume reg control valve 0001, MAF low voltage, low voltage inj 8 which I just replaced internal pigtail a month ago and intend to inspect, inj 3 low circuit, cyl 2 low circuit, inj 2 open circuit. What a mess!!!

 

[Cgrigson1]

0197, 0001, 0102, 0282, 0267, 0264, 0202
Appreciate any advice you could offer. I've had a refv issue at ICP and still do but feel like it's a bad harness at this point and have seen some frayed pigs and taped but will likely just spring for the new one once I get this leak fixed

 

[Cgrigson1]

And I have an older thread " what the heck is going on". This super nice member and I have been working on it off and on for a while which is cool and helps a ton.

 

[6.0 Tech]

The leak you hear at number 8 could be either a failed upper o ring, failed aoil rail nipple o ring, or simply a stand pipe leaking. Id say pull the stand pipe out and check it. Typically a failed upper injector o ring will cause the truck to quit, like you dscribed, and it may or may not restart cold.

 

[Cgrigson1]

I'm appreciating the the help for sure! I'll post what I take from all of it and get to work on tomorrow.

 

[Cgrigson1]

So what I did today is with driver side valve cover off redid the air test and still fealt like I was hearing something from #8 maybe from the HPOP area to be sure pulled oil rail off inspected piped plugs and reseated injector 8 and no change when I put it back on still sounds like air coming from below. Where HPOP is. Thinking next move is to pull the turbonamd HPOP cover and give her the air again but I have also heard there is a natural leak at the back of the pump. Stil hearing some air from oil fill tube and that side hasn't been touched since professional rebuild 2 years or 35k miles ago so thinking I'm hearing a little air out of there because I either have a failed stc fitting on my pump or something in there. I looked and there is no option to program scangauge2 to command IPR. Is this what I should do tomorrow?

 

[crcrawford87]

Your pump still has a STC fitting on it? How are you pressuring up the system?

 

[6.0 Tech]

When you pull the pump cover use a rubber tipped air nozzle on the discharge tube on top of the pump, you should be able to find the leak there. You may want to pull the passenger valve cover off while you do this, just in case it has a large leak that is dumping enough air into tye crankcase to make it sound like its on both sides.

 

[Cgrigson1]

Good advice, not sure on the stc, motor was rebuilt a couple years ago and not sure what he did. Going after it today when I get home after lunch

 

[Cgrigson1]

Will the Ford parts house have the fitting that replaces the STC fitting
Or do I get it from some diesel bulletproof site online?

 

[03_PSD]

Your truck being an 04 wouldn't have STC issues I thought, but still could have dummy plug issues and such?

 

[Cgrigson1]

Dummy plugs are fine. Im deffinatlry hearing air coming from the area of the pump.

 

[Cgrigson1]

Ok. I'm in it deep now. My goal is to get this truck to where a pump or a leak is not an issue by the end of the weekend. I pulled turbo and pump cover. My IPR is brand new as well as ICP. Initially I put shop air with a rubber end into the hole on top and saw a little air coming out of the bottom of that piece that I was sticking the air hose into where it sets on the pump. I did hear oil gurgelling down inside the pump case and a little from where the oil filter goes which I took out. I do have driver side valve cover off because I recently replaced an injector pig tail from the injector to the valve cover because it was broken so I wanted to be sure I i didn't mess something up. Oil rail is reinstalled. Just had this motor rebuilt 2 years ago and the mechanic said they replaced everything and it appears he did upgrade/replace snap to connect. It looks totally different from what I've been seeing.
How should I proceed in your opinion to ensure its solid and slap it back together and assume it's an electrical issue why she shuts off when warm and hard to restart. I was seeing low refv to ICP and possible other shorts
Thanks, Clay

 

[Cgrigson1]

My pump

Looks new ?

 

[Cgrigson1]

I didn't see a little bit of glitter on the outside of the IPR screen. Read somewhere that's perfectly indicative of a bad pump and note. It's been taking a few seconds to build pressure to start even cold. It's a $750 part guys. I wanna make damn sure I need one!

 

[Cgrigson1]

This doesn't look right

Some of that rubber fell down in there when I pulled the cover off,I'll get it out.
Question. If I were to need to go to ford tomorrow to buy a new pump kit will the tool to disconnect the fitting be included? I'm on the cusp and she's been broken for over a month. I have another truck but I'm over not having my big boy running the roads. It's a hinderence I plan to eliminate this weekend!
Thanks
Clay
Dallas, TX
Don't be J, playoffs coming soon and we shall see what we are made of then

 

[Cgrigson1]

Would plugging my block heater in help right now for my leak test/make sure it isn't the pump testing?

 

[6.0 Tech]

Ok, you got a bunch of questions to answer here, lemme see if i can get em all.

First, your pump does not have an stc fitting that likes to blow out, hence why it looks different from all the ones people take pictures of. The later pumps are known for blowing the fitting out, but otherwise are pretty damn bullet proof. The early ones, such as yours have known issues of grenading, chitting the ball out the side (should be one on the base of the pump on the drivers side, if there is just a hole, you need a pump), and also blowing the seals out of them(kinda hard to see installed, as it is behind the gear).

Next, no the pump will not come with the tool, but the tool is not needed. I typically just rotate the j tube out of the way. If you feel the need to remove it, the wrenches that come with die grinders work as a tool for removing. As far as the gasket material falling in, id change your oil at this point anyways, to get any chit that may have fallen in there out.

Finally, no the block heater will not help any. If you cant find the leak, take your pump off and check the seal visually. Also try turning it over by hand, you can typically feel if they are internally ***ked.

Hope that helps some.