Must have been lost in translation. Was not trying to be condescending. My apologize for that.
38r to sxe
- Thread starter Bmcgarvie
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Must have been lost in translation. Was not trying to be condescending. My apologize for that.
ghohouston
Active member
I am not arguing the new sxe turbo's are not better than a 38r. I've seen all the great reviews on them. I will honestly probably end up buying one in the future. I am simply saying there is a reason people have been unhappy with the 38r, and the 38r itself is not the reason.
The Brad
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Everyone knows the 38r is a Russian designed turbo manufactured in North Korea.
lariat 7.3
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it starts building at about 1600 rpms and lights around 8ish PSI, its just hot when a trailer is hooked to it. I've checked everything on the dang thing, IH bellowed upipes, diesel site boots, resealed intakes, new o ring at spider etc. If i throw it in my race tune itll easily peg my 35 psi gauge and it absolutely rips. Just looking for better driveability when a trailer is hooked up so im not staring at the EGT gauge the entire trip when im on flat ground doing 65-70 with the rpms screaming to keep the egts under 1250.
mikeeg02
New member
My old truck had the same setup as I tried on this truck. Bellowed pipes, tight compressor side of turbo (no boost leaks, found all and fixed with a leak tester, one of which being the map sensor between the plastic and the brass) The difference between these two trucks was the difference between auto and manual transmission, and thats where I noticed the most difference between the two trucks with the same turbo. (Lack of converter slip) Where the turbo came to life on this truck was too late for my driving habits. And as I have admitted several times, the issue with the top end was likely the gate being too tight. It was stuck in my head that the old saying was 238-80s and a 38r with 6 turns on the gate got you 500hp.
So after all that I wanted something better (and Carson Stauffer agreed I would when I told him I picked up a 38r) and he steered me to what I have now.
Theres no dispute that a stock 38r took a lot of abuse, and work well for a lot of people, and some people made great power with them too. Hell I have bought two new ones myself in the last 8 years. But Im not 18, and not looking to make a smoke show. Dont want to have to change my driving habits to keep the turbo happy. I dont want to have to wash the soot off of my white trailer. I drive how I drive, and built the truck around that. If it was an auto trans truck, and I would have adjusted the gate, I probably wouldnt of needed to switch, especially when 3rd is a button away, without losing your built boost going up a mountain.
mikeeg02
New member
As interested as I am to see how well their new design works, there probably isnt enough incentive for someone like me to do that. Quite honestly I am hoping the results that come from the users will speak for itself. (Though I am naturally curious) And hoping for a few comparable videos showing boost/rpm/egts/tailpipe lol. Because if you could spend ~800 or so less, and have a very comparable turbo thats phenomenal for everyone who already has bellowed pipes, or needs it to "look stock" for cali emissions or stock class truck pulls. This is what we need to be able to compete there. We have always had a disadvantage at that point.
I heard they imported some Venezuelan engineers to help out.
psduser1
Active member
No worries. For me, it was a results vs time/money thing.
I just don't like hearing people speak in absolutes, without consideration for the variables.:ford:
With Mexican parts.
Definitely differences between auto and stick.
See above.
The newer SXE turbos definitely have a lot of new tech that helps them out... but something that I don't see mentioned much is turbo sizing is also a factor. The 64mm compressor wheel on the SXE is going to spool faster and like towing better down low when compared to the 366 or even gtp38r. That is why you see guys who want to tow being steered towards the 363 or 364.5... the same can be said with the drop in turbos. There is a lack of 63-64mm options out there.
On a side note... I know a few guys that went from a box garrett 38r to a 369 and then back down to a 366 and hated them. Said they never spooled well off the line. But that could have been a sizing issue again. I think it is crazy when guys are recommend an s369 for a guy with 238/100s
On a side note... I know a few guys that went from a box garrett 38r to a 369 and then back down to a 366 and hated them. Said they never spooled well off the line. But that could have been a sizing issue again. I think it is crazy when guys are recommend an s369 for a guy with 238/100s
CarportMechanic
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What wheel do you have in your 38R?
I had the stock cast wheel in and went with the billet wheel. I hated the billet wheel. Very slow to build boost and I did not notice much more top end boost compared to the cast wheel, no power difference up top was felt.
I threw the stock cast wheel back in and haven't looked back since. I can see the difference in the boost gauge and can even feel it in the lower RPM's.
lariat 7.3
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lariat 7.3
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What size would you recommend for 238/80 and all the associated crap to go with them
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Swaan
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A 364.5 sxe flows more air then a 38r.
238/ 80s and a 38r was such a hot set up back in the day.
I'm sure a 364.5 would dam near clean up those injectors.
I always lean on the smallish side rather then going to big when it comes to turbo sizing. Just to much to gain by going to small over too big.
I had a box s366 on my truck before the 364.5 and it was a absolute dog.
238/ 80s and a 38r was such a hot set up back in the day.
I'm sure a 364.5 would dam near clean up those injectors.
I always lean on the smallish side rather then going to big when it comes to turbo sizing. Just to much to gain by going to small over too big.
I had a box s366 on my truck before the 364.5 and it was a absolute dog.
mikeeg02
New member
I think a 366sxe goes well with my 238/100s, and manual trans. I cant imagine wanting anything better than I have now, though most times with anything less fuel I suggest the 364.5, and everyone with a 364.5, even with stock injectors seems super happy. I think I am perfectly sized for my fuel and driving habits. I have zero issues towing. And I mean zero. When I haul coal for winter I typically gross 24k (scale verified from the mine). And I have a manual transmission. I know the old box 366s were sluggish, and maybe my 366sxe was a wednesday turbo, but it comes up fast and hard, as my videos have shown.
I do agree with sizing a turbo properly, and thats why if anyone has less fuel then me, I generally suggest the 364.5 because I fear I am on the edge of where the 366sxe fits. But I have heard a few accounts of stock injectored trucks running a 364.5 and being happy. As they did the turbo before the fuel.
psduser1
Active member
I'll agree with this!
If the 38r had some more options, it would be so much more helpful.
Biggest downfall to a drop-in. Couple different compressor housings is all you get. None of the replacement wheels seemed to work, except in certain, limited applications.
So how did it do on the hard part of the cajon pass? What kind of speed did you maintain after the 138 to the top? I pull that one regularly and its rough. If I can prevent traffic from slowing me down, I can manage 50-60 - but she's screaming. LOL
The Brad
New member
Funny you should ask since I just drove that last week. I was pulling a toy hauler loaded to about 8-9k and wanted to see how it would do, but traffic wasn’t allowing it. Finally, at the steepest part, while doing 25mph, I had an opening. It accelerated from 25-75 and never broke 1150*. I still had plenty of pedal left in my tow tune and I only let out due to more traffic. I can maintain 35psi boost at 2k rpm in OD and still be under 1200*. I live at the bottom of Cajon Pass, so send me a PM if you want to see for yourself.
Plzstrokeme
Member
That's incredible. If I lived closer I would definitely take you up on that offer.
The Brad
New member
Lol, stay in ID. I’m sure it’s better there!
