5r110 help!

[06/6.0]

hey guys so i have a 5r110 with a suncoast SUN COAST IRON-0305-3 IRON PAC 3 ALTO REBUILD KIT i think i used the alto kit but anyway i also have the 2200 stall converter from sun coast and a river city input shaft and the empire direct clutch solenoid and running ams oil atf but the trans ran great for the break in peiod then the for pump wend so we put a new pump in made sure everything was clean and put it all back togeather with a new cooler ******d the cooler in the rad and installed a bd extruder cooler instead yes we blew the lines out also but the trans was running at anywhere between 175 and 186 but now it wont run any cooler than 190 and ive seen temps up to 225 im kinda baffled and am hoping some one might have a idea whats going on here o i cant run in stop and go or it just keeps getting hotter and im running warren diesel tunes at the moment thanks for the help :fustrate:

 

[Zmann]

your not supposed to blow the lines out with the filter head installed

did you disconnect it ? it has a one way check valve in it that can get damaged

you do have the Toilet paper filter in place correct ?

you have an OEM air to oil and a BD air to Oil and no coolant to oil cooler correct ?

 

[06/6.0]

forgot to add that in there we removed that because suncoast told us they cause alot of issues

 

[Zmann]

what did you remove the tp filter? or the whole filter manifold?

or something else LOL

 

[06/6.0]

the whole thing ran lines right past the whole thing

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

******d the cooler in the rad

I think that means you don't use the cooler in the radiator. That will cause the trans to run hotter, it needs all of that cooling. Taking a great cooler out and still expecting it to cool doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Zmann]

I get it however i wouldn't bypass it either

he didn't want to buy a new radiator and his old cooler was likely contaminated

I was asking about the TP filter because if you just remove the element the coolers get bypassed . sounds like you did it correctly

what are you using for filtration the 08 in pan ?

what

 

[06/6.0]

right now using the in pan filter but going to install a bypass filter kit for a cummins my buddy did the same and it works great also yes the rad cooler was clogged up so we took it out of the system and installed the bd extruder cooler instead so i have the stock air to oil cooler and the extruder cooler with the fan on it that has a 185 degree t stat on it

 

[06/6.0]

and when the coolant temp is running at 198-200 its not going to help cool the trans much thats why we took it out of the loop

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

The coolant isn't that hot where the cooler is located. It's in the cool side of the radiator. Take it from someone who has actually measured these temperatures, the radiator cooler does most of the transmission cooling.

 

[KCTurbos]

The coolant isn't that hot where the cooler is located. It's in the cool side of the radiator. Take it from someone who has actually measured these temperatures, the radiator cooler does most of the transmission cooling.

Interesting info. I have always understood it a different way. I thought the radiator part of the tranny cooling system was actually there the help WARM UP the tranny fluid.

I have been running my system with the radiator portion ******d for years. Only byproduct I saw was that my tranny takes FOREVER to warm up in the winter time. Sometimes in the winter time after driving for 15-20 min my tranny temps are still barely hitting 100 degrees.

I tow about 12k up big grades, race on the dyno, drive in rush hour traffic from bumper to bumper. I usually see around 160-175 degrees.

The hottest I have seen was when towing with a bigger non-vgt turbo and the only tune that kept the egts cool would leave the converter UNLOCKED the whole time. I hit around 180-190 degrees.


So... I am not sure how much cooling the radiator does. But on my truck the only thing it affects is the warm up times.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

The coolant isn't that hot where the cooler is located. It's in the cool side of the radiator. Take it from someone who has actually measured these temperatures, the radiator cooler does most of the transmission cooling.

It helps warm the fluid when cold but it also is the primary heat removal for the trans.

I never remove the radiator cooler from the system. For the $300 a new radiator costs it's not worth it. New radiator and factory air cooler with '10 pan and filter and we never have temp problems unless the converter is bad.

OP, when you changed the pump did you send the converter out to be cut open and cleaned?

I had a LBZ dmax come in with a built trans that would not run under 225. Owner had tried everything, BD double stacked cooler, PPE cooler, Fleece lines, but had never checked the radiator cooler. I back flushed it and got a solid hand full of black death and burned up clutches out of it. New radiator and filters and it stayed at 190.

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

Interesting info. I have always understood it a different way. I thought the radiator part of the tranny cooling system was actually there the help WARM UP the tranny fluid.

I have been running my system with the radiator portion ******d for years. Only byproduct I saw was that my tranny takes FOREVER to warm up in the winter time. Sometimes in the winter time after driving for 15-20 min my tranny temps are still barely hitting 100 degrees.

So... I am not sure how much cooling the radiator does. But on my truck the only thing it affects is the warm up times.

It helps warm the fluid when cold but it also is the primary heat removal for the trans.

I've measured trans fluid temps into and out of the radiator. At the same time I've measured the coolant inside the radiator around the trans cooler. I can state that the radiator cooler NEVER warms the trans fluid. Ever. In any operating condition that I could find, going down as far as -40° ambient temperatures.

 

[06/6.0]

welp it was running hotter befor that was taken out of the picture thats not what the issur i have is i have plenty of cooling thats been determined

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

I have nothing further to add. You seem to know more about transmission cooling than I do.

 

[jeremiahmercier]

welp it was running hotter befor that was taken out of the picture thats not what the issur i have is i have plenty of cooling thats been determined

But you also said it was contaminated and clogged, which would restrict flow too much and cause it to run hot, and your still complaining of it running hot. Just purchase new rad and put back in line with trans cooling as well, would probably solve your problem

06-6.0l, CCLB 4X4, studded, reworked heads, egr gone, cab reroute, blue spring mod, 6.4 banjos, updated dummy plugs, stand pipe, and stc fitting; New oil cooler, New ipr, New icp, atlas 40 FICM, powermax turbo, and Geerhead tunes, 325/65R18

 

[06/6.0]

Interesting info. I have always understood it a different way. I thought the radiator part of the tranny cooling system was actually there the help WARM UP the tranny fluid.

I have been running my system with the radiator portion ******d for years. Only byproduct I saw was that my tranny takes FOREVER to warm up in the winter time. Sometimes in the winter time after driving for 15-20 min my tranny temps are still barely hitting 100 degrees.

I tow about 12k up big grades, race on the dyno, drive in rush hour traffic from bumper to bumper. I usually see around 160-175 degrees.

The hottest I have seen was when towing with a bigger non-vgt turbo and the only tune that kept the egts cool would leave the converter UNLOCKED the whole time. I hit around 180-190 degrees.


So... I am not sure how much cooling the radiator does. But on my truck the only thing it affects is the warm up times.

:rockon: thats the kind of imformation i have been looking for! and thats also how i have allways understood it and everyone else i have talked to understands it

 

[06/6.0]

It helps warm the fluid when cold but it also is the primary heat removal for the trans.

I never remove the radiator cooler from the system. For the $300 a new radiator costs it's not worth it. New radiator and factory air cooler with '10 pan and filter and we never have temp problems unless the converter is bad.

OP, when you changed the pump did you send the converter out to be cut open and cleaned?

I had a LBZ dmax come in with a built trans that would not run under 225. Owner had tried everything, BD double stacked cooler, PPE cooler, Fleece lines, but had never checked the radiator cooler. I back flushed it and got a solid hand full of black death and burned up clutches out of it. New radiator and filters and it stayed at 190.

done everything but send the converter out think that might be all that could possibly be it at this point

 

[06/6.0]

I've measured trans fluid temps into and out of the radiator. At the same time I've measured the coolant inside the radiator around the trans cooler. I can state that the radiator cooler NEVER warms the trans fluid. Ever. In any operating condition that I could find, going down as far as -40° ambient temperatures.

so if thats the case what truck was this done on a 6.0? what was the air temp? was the truck warm? was that while driving or idling? what was the coolant temp? theres alot of variables in this and you might of checked but how did you check it what tool did you use to check these temps? i dont understand how what your saying would work the way you say it dose and im just trying to understand what you had going on because id be interested in seeing this for myself interesting concept

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

so if thats the case what truck was this done on a 6.0?

Yes, I did this on a 6.0L as well as many other vehicles. It was my job at Ford to do this.

what was the air temp?

I've tested in air temps from as cold as -40°F to as hot as +121°F

was the truck warm?

Depending on the test the truck started cold, or it started hot. I've done it both ways.

was that while driving or idling?

I've tested idling, city cycle driving, highway driving, and anything in between.

what was the coolant temp?

Depending on the test coolant temps were anywhere from -40°F to just below boilover.

theres alot of variables in this and you might of checked but how did you check it what tool did you use to check these temps?

That's why every test had hundreds of thermocouples to measure everything going on. I had thermocouples inside the radiator around the trans cooler. I had thermocouples measuring the ATF temp in and out of the radiator cooler and the air to oil cooler. I also measured air temperature in and out of the radiator, around the engine, and around the transmission.

i dont understand how what your saying would work the way you say it dose and im just trying to understand what you had going on because id be interested in seeing this for myself interesting concept

Before I started measuring this I didn't think this was how it worked, either. I was surprised that the radiator never warmed the trans fluid, but it does not. I have measured this on many different types of vehicles in many, many different conditions.

The only time it is even close is at startup when the coolant and the ATF are at the same temperature. Once the engine starts the ATF starts to flow. It warms slowly, but the coolant around the radiator trans cooler doesn't warm at all, because the thermostat is closed. When the thermostat finally opens it dumps 200°F (more or less) coolant into the radiator. It doesn't stay open for long because the engine sucks ambient temp coolant in through the lower hose, causing the thermostat to close quickly. By the time this hot coolant gets the transmission radiator cooler it's back to near ambient. Remember, I had thermocouples in the radiator to measure this, I'm not guessing.

If you want to see actual data you'll have to go to Ford. I didn't own that data and I only took my memory of it when I left Ford.