6.0 Bullet Proof To Do?

N2GN2 · Mar 11, 2016

Just bought an 06 KR with 100k and I want to bullet proof it. I haven't found a good thread yet. I'll be pulling the engine. Here's what I want to do so far.

1. ARP head studs
2. BPD air to oil cooler
3. Sinister Diesel EGR ******
4. Head work
5. BPD water pump
6. HPOP STC oil fitting

There's oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Should I pull pan and replace all gaskets? Anything else I should look at? Dummy plugs, stand pipes?

fordboy11 · Mar 11, 2016

N2GN2 said:
Just bought an 06 KR with 100k and I want to bullet proof it. I haven't found a good thread yet. I'll be pulling the engine. Here's what I want to do so far.

1. ARP head studs
2. BPD air to oil cooler
3. Sinister Diesel EGR ******
4. Head work
5. BPD water pump
6. HPOP STC oil fitting

There's oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Should I pull pan and replace all gaskets? Anything else I should look at? Dummy plugs, stand pipes?

I would also update the LPOP gears and put on new Seal and the wear ring. Also I would install Updated stand pipe dummy plugs. also if the funds are there I would do a regulated return since the motors out.

N2GN2 · Mar 11, 2016

Could you provide more info on the LPOP gear update? Should I just get a new set and cyro them? I'll update the standpipes and dummy plugs. I already have a fuel system upgrade planned.

powerstrokinfirefighter · Mar 11, 2016

Lifters

N2GN2 · Mar 11, 2016

New cryo lifters?

Myerswelder · Mar 11, 2016

Depending how n what route you go maybe some hd up pipes. Much easier to do now than later

N2GN2 · Mar 11, 2016

Ok, thank you.

fordboy11 · Mar 12, 2016

I wouldn't spend the extra money on cryo'd LPOP gears I would just get new ones. But if your planning on doing a ton of playing with the truck I would buy Billet inner gears. Also lifters isn't a bad idea either that way you can change the rear main seal as well.

N2GN2 · Mar 12, 2016

I might have found a place online that would do all lifters for $40. Probably not much more to do LPOP gears.

N2GN2 · Mar 14, 2016

Today I bought (16) 6.4 pushrods (8C3Z6565B) and also sent them to cryo.

wiseguy · Mar 14, 2016

if your going to have truck for awhile most here wont agree with me but my .02
pull the motor not the cab. I recommend ford parts new main bearings, lpop stc, oil cooler, water pump, push rods, all new hoses, idler pulleys belt, turbo feed and drain ,ford head gaskets, thermostat, dummy plugs, blue spring kit, cam & crank sensors, oil switch blue connector and new degas bottle. If your spunky add new clevite rod bearings and ford rod bolts,I would also replace the rings i see quite a few stuck in the ring lands. Aftermarket parts felpro lower conversion set, felpro rocker cover gaskets, I normally run melling lifters my preference. I like the bpd water pumps but they are $$$$ ford ones last long time. I'm not a huge fan of oil to air coolers they have there issues too. I would save the $$ and use ford cooler good coolant and filter kit i would also $$ on egr i would just have yours welded shut cheaper and less likely to leak. I see more j tubes leak than factory coolers. as far as heads all new valves, steel guides, grind seats, pressure test mag and surface. Head studs pick your brand... When i went through shop dually last year i went with new garret turbo mine was fine but new one was 750 sold my old one for 300. yes its a lot of parts but truck is 10 years old spend more now and be done with it.

N2GN2 · Mar 14, 2016

I appreciate the info. I was going to be in my 7.3 forever until insurance totaled it for some large door/bed dents. This will be my new rig and I'm excited about it. I believe this truck was a pavement princess before I bought it. I'm definitely open to ideas on the build.

slc6oh · Mar 16, 2016

Jus had mine out and did all but the same thing. Push rods,lifters,water pump,rr, resealed all the injectors, stand pipes and dummy plugs (pipes and plugs were already the new ones but replaced anyways)

For another 400$(ish) on top of the 200$ish in machining em flat,
I would recommend having the heads o ringed just for a little extra piece of mind

slc6oh · Mar 16, 2016

X2 on just welding stock cooler

DEEZUZ · Mar 16, 2016

You guys are going to be mad, but I'm starting to believe it's the cam thats failing, which in turns takes out the lifters

wiseguy · Mar 17, 2016

CTC DEEZUL said:
You guys are going to be mad, but I'm starting to believe it's the cam thats failing, which in turns takes out the lifters

i used to think that too but i have a lifter i pulled from a truck we were doing hg on truck ran good just puking. We replace 100% of all lifters every time we pull one apart . the roller on the lifter is.... not sure how to describe it looks like concrete spalling cam lobe looked perfect and still rolls perfect... Actually looks like metal flaked off i couldn't believe how good the cam looked

DEEZUZ · Mar 17, 2016

I'm starting to believe the opposite, and the lobes are taking out the lifters. Lobes are only as hard as the very thin hardened surface. Anything below that is fair game and not very strong.

Here's my cam

With corresponding lifter

Of course it's likely the roller had started to chip away first, but look at how evenly flattened that lobe is... It's definitely a chicken and egg argument. But the roller was perfectly smooth and no needle bearings were lost yet...

IMO it's the lobes going first