Another cold start issue

[Railroader_Joe]

I just created this account through tapatalk so if you need more info about the truck I'll be glad to tell. It's a 99.5 with 264k. I live in Colorado and this past winter it developed a good ol' no start when it's cold problem. Ive had the truck for ten years now so I've been here before. I started with the relay. I bought a new one and put it in, no change. I checked voltage across the relay with key on and off and everything was normal. Next I changed out the glow plugs with new ones and did an ohm test on all of them before I installed to make sure I didn't buy any duds. They were all good but no change to the issue. Not sure exactly when but at some point in here I did put in 2 new batteries. Next I checked all of the wiring related to the glow plugs and I am getting almost 12 volts at the glow plug caps so the wiring seems to be fine. I also changed out the oil temp sensor and got nothing. Now what is really confusing me is, the WTS light comes on and goes off like normal every time but I have power at the glow plugs as long as the key is on. It never cuts power off to the plugs. I am assuming that when functioning properly, when the WTS light goes off, it cuts power to the glow plugs as well. Please correct me if I'm wrong. So I have good plugs, and power to them, but still no start when it's cold. I will add as a side note that I am running 205/100's with irate's competition fuel system with tunes from Beans, so I'm getting plenty of fuel and plenty of white/gray smoke while cranking and its the same no matter which tune is selected. Now, once started, whether being plugged in or ether(I know I know), truck runs just fine, and restarts like normal as long as it has been run that same day.

Now that it is summer the truck starts just fine but I can tell that I have still have the issue. Is it possible that the IDM could have anything to do with this? I am hoping to get this figured out before winter hits again. I tried to search the forum before posting and I do apologize if this is a repeat. Please help! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lincolnlocker]

first of all, welcome to PSA!!! sounds like most everything checks out that you installed new.. but how is voltage while cranking? if it drops low enough, it wont spin the starter as fast and or wont fire the injectors as fast or glowplugs wont heat up as fast.. all that has to jive with one another for a smooth starting truck.. if the starter is original then it may just be giving up life too.. voltage means everything here.. need to monitor icp and ipr dc while cranking also..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Railroader_Joe]

Thanks for the welcome! The starter is original. I was hoping to solve a low voltage and cold cranking amps problem with new batteries but now that I think about it all of the battery cables are original as well and even with new batteries I was only getting 11.somthing volts at the gp relay.. I haven't looked up the specs but I would think it should be at least 12. Thank you for the help.. I will definitely check those while cranking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

Original injectors?
If so, may be time for new ones.

 

[Railroader_Joe]

The 205/100's are stage 3 injectors from Full Force Diesel... Have about 20k on them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

Ah sorry, misinterpreted that. How's compression?

 

[Railroader_Joe]

Haven't checked compression.. If I had to guess its probably fair to poor.. I used to have the ccv mod routed to the rear of the truck but it kept filling with oil and I got tired of the smell. I routed it back to the intake and I get a LOT of oil residue in the intake, IC pipes etc... I'm thinking I have excess crank pressure due to worn rings but that's just my guess. Or maybe valve stem seals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EasternOntarioPowerstroke]

I just created this account through tapatalk so if you need more info about the truck I'll be glad to tell. It's a 99.5 with 264k. I live in Colorado and this past winter it developed a good ol' no start when it's cold problem. Ive had the truck for ten years now so I've been here before. I started with the relay. I bought a new one and put it in, no change. I checked voltage across the relay with key on and off and everything was normal. Next I changed out the glow plugs with new ones and did an ohm test on all of them before I installed to make sure I didn't buy any duds. They were all good but no change to the issue. Not sure exactly when but at some point in here I did put in 2 new batteries. Next I checked all of the wiring related to the glow plugs and I am getting almost 12 volts at the glow plug caps so the wiring seems to be fine. I also changed out the oil temp sensor and got nothing. Now what is really confusing me is, the WTS light comes on and goes off like normal every time but I have power at the glow plugs as long as the key is on. It never cuts power off to the plugs. I am assuming that when functioning properly, when the WTS light goes off, it cuts power to the glow plugs as well. Please correct me if I'm wrong. So I have good plugs, and power to them, but still no start when it's cold. I will add as a side note that I am running 205/100's with irate's competition fuel system with tunes from Beans, so I'm getting plenty of fuel and plenty of white/gray smoke while cranking and its the same no matter which tune is selected. Now, once started, whether being plugged in or ether(I know I know), truck runs just fine, and restarts like normal as long as it has been run that same day.

Now that it is summer the truck starts just fine but I can tell that I have still have the issue. Is it possible that the IDM could have anything to do with this? I am hoping to get this figured out before winter hits again. I tried to search the forum before posting and I do apologize if this is a repeat. Please help! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

K
Puuu


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Railroader_Joe]

K
Puuu


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm a little confused by that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EasternOntarioPowerstroke]

Sorry mustve been somehow posted by accident


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ToMang07]

Just wanted to add real quick....

The Glow Plugs stay on longer than the WTS light. IIRC 2-3 minutes if it's cold enough. If they are staying on longer than that, THEN it's an issue.

What oil are you using? Have you tried a quality synthetic? Made a huge difference on cold starts for me, combined with some 850CCA batteries.

If you have a scan tool, you should be able to see your RPMs (to determine if the starter is weak) when your cranking it, and check your IPR/ICP values.

Also, who's tunes you running? Any difference starting in different tunes?

 

[Railroader_Joe]

Just wanted to add real quick....



The Glow Plugs stay on longer than the WTS light. IIRC 2-3 minutes if it's cold enough. If they are staying on longer than that, THEN it's an issue.



What oil are you using? Have you tried a quality synthetic? Made a huge difference on cold starts for me, combined with some 850CCA batteries.



If you have a scan tool, you should be able to see your RPMs (to determine if the starter is weak) when your cranking it, and check your IPR/ICP values.



Also, who's tunes you running? Any difference starting in different tunes?

I have been running amsoil for many years so I don't think there's an issue there. I have tunes from Beans and it's the same in any tune. Since you mentioned the scan tool, I remember I had borrowed one and it showed that the glow plugs had 0 amps for 0 seconds before starting. What is causing this if I have power at the glow plug connectors?? The fact that I have power at the glow plugs lead me to believe that whatever controls the glow plugs on/off time is the problem... like the pcm. So that's why I replaced the oil temp sensor. The only other reading the pcm uses for glow plugs that I'm aware of is barometric pressure. I don't believe there is an actual sensor for that one though. What am I missing here? It doesn't make sense to me..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TyCorr]

Have you tried starting it WITHOUT the chip plugged in?

Perhaps their cranking icp, pw, and other values arent good for cold weather?

 

[Arisley]

Try plugging it in, see if that fixes the issue. Sometimes, that will narrow down what the real issue is.

 

[Railroader_Joe]

Have you tried starting it WITHOUT the chip plugged in?



Perhaps their cranking icp, pw, and other values arent good for cold weather?

Well I have had this setup with these tunes through a few winters with no problems and last winter was when it developed this issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TyCorr]

Well I have had this setup with these tunes through a few winters with no problems and last winter was when it developed this issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, if its not tuning, its probably your injectors. Glow plugs help but ive started my truck with NO gps in 15 degree weather. About 4 secondsof cranking and it was going.

If you swapped out, replaced the gp system whats left? It sounds like worn injectors to me.

 

[ToMang07]

Ok, if its not tuning, its probably your injectors. Glow plugs help but ive started my truck with NO gps in 15 degree weather. About 4 secondsof cranking and it was going.

If you swapped out, replaced the gp system whats left? It sounds like worn injectors to me.

Or bad compression.

Sent from the pocket porn device!

 

[Railroader_Joe]

Ok, if its not tuning, its probably your injectors. Glow plugs help but ive started my truck with NO gps in 15 degree weather. About 4 secondsof cranking and it was going.



If you swapped out, replaced the gp system whats left? It sounds like worn injectors to me.

Well as I stated a few posts ago, the scanner said glow plugs had 0 amps for 0 seconds before starting.. I just can't pinpoint why


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TyCorr]

Or bad compression.

Sent from the pocket porn device!

Gp's, especially all new stuff, should cover all that up. B7t i guess it depends on how bad we're talking.

 

[TyCorr]

Well as I stated a few posts ago, the scanner said glow plugs had 0 amps for 0 seconds before starting.. I just can't pinpoint why


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 amps for 0 amount of time doesnt indicate it wasnt receiving voltage when you were trying to start it, does it?