Another Oil Cooler thread

Jeremyleggett07

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Ok I need to do an oil cooler replacement, 3rd one with 30k miles of last one. Never done it before but financially can't put it in the shop right now.
I am going to have some help but curious what all needs to be removed and done to correctly do it. I don't mind taking my time since it's not my daily driver. Thanks in advance fellas.
 

loboost

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Ok I need to do an oil cooler replacement, 3rd one with 30k miles of last one. Never done it before but financially can't put it in the shop right now.
I am going to have some help but curious what all needs to be removed and done to correctly do it. I don't mind taking my time since it's not my daily driver. Thanks in advance fellas.

Flush....then flush....then flush...then when its all running clear...flush again...

I'll bet it hasn't been properly flushed during the other 2 or 3 coolers...hence the clogging soon after.


Then either switch to an elc coolant or use ford gold...but either way adding a coolant filter doesn't hurt at all.

I run zerex zxed-1 and a filter
 

loboost

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It had ford gold...and was done by a reputable shop and site sponsor....

Chalk it up to bad luck if you want...but if you're getting only 30k miles out of a new OEM cooler...something else is up.

A properly flushed system, new cooler installed after said flush, will last more than 30k miles.
 

loboost

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10-12*delta city about 18-20* delta hwy....already replace t-stat because kept sticking open

I think he was asking about the actual temps...coolant temp and oil temp...

But regardless of temps, a oil cooler in working order would maintain an acceptable delta.

For example, if your trucks max operating temp was 165*, which would denote a possible bad t stat or other issue ...the oil temp should be no warmer than 180* with a good working oil cooler.


With that said, your deltas of 10-20* would incline me to believe you have a clogged oil cooler again.

Like I said before, if you want to tackle it yourself, its not hard at all, just a little time consuming if you've never done one yourself.

There are some good write ups here pertaining to just that. But be certain you flush well before you do the swap. There are also good write ups here on how to flush properly and what chemicals to use.
 

Jeremyleggett07

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I did several searchs and haven't found write ups on either one. I knew by watching the deltas my cooler is prob clogged again, but I've see. Oil temps up to 224 and coolant at 202...I knew my t stat was bad cause my oil may be around 110
Or so, for example, and coolant would suddenly drop to 180 or more.
 

suprdzlduty

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what kind of oil do you use? any additive to it? that can have an effect on your oil temps. also is your radiator plugged, externally? farm use, dusty conditions etc can cause issues with cooling. it seems as though coolant temps are a little high to start with even while going down the road. are you empty or loaded when these temps where checked? water pump ok? you have a coolant filter already by your sig, so your coolant shouldn't be full of crap to clog the cooler...30k and to be on your 3rd one, like said before, something else is going on. if you want to put one in heres a start,

drain coolant

remove air intake, coolant tank, ficm, turbo, intercooler pipes, etc. work your way down till your intake, wiring harness's etc.

make sure to clean between intake and rocker boxes in case of a loose net or bolt and general dirt, I use a air gun. something could fall in the intake ports...which would be very bad.

unbolt the intake, remove.

you now have access to the oil cooler. now would be the time to put on a stc fitting if not already there. if not pull the pump first, that will allow the oil cooler reservoir to drain. if you don't need the stc then lay some rags where the turbo mount was, when you unbolt the oil cooler some oil will be running out. have a pan ready to put oil cooler in.

the rebuild instructions are in the box with the ford oil coolers.

clean out the old oil from reservoir. cant tell you enough to be make sure things are clean. if you use shop towels to clean then use compressed air to blow out the lint. (out of the reservoir)

fill the reservoir with oil enough to cover the new oil screen and reinstall.

intake gaskets could probably be reused if they were replaced last time. they aren't expensive so it wouldn't hurt to put some new ones on.

then start putting it back the way you took it apart.

Im sure others will fill in a few details here and there but that should give you a general idea on how to get it done.
 

Snake

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Chalk it up to bad luck if you want...but if you're getting only 30k miles out of a new OEM cooler...something else is up.

A properly flushed system, new cooler installed after said flush, will last more than 30k miles.

Not true. There are countless people who flushed their system VERY aggressively, myself included, and have had their new oil cooler clog soon afterwards (less than 15k miles, actually).

Even hot tanking or replacing your radiator is no guarantee because you still have the entire rest of the system to contend with.

.
 
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Jeremyleggett07

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Pricey tho...may end up just takin it to dorian a PSE tho
7y4edaza.jpg
 

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