Anyone wanna take bets?

Jhaddox

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Jesus Christ Corb....I would have had a superduty bonfire by now if I were in your shoes...I couldn't imagine footing the bill on all the transmissions youve went through in the past few weeks

I'm no help on the issue but...good luck buddy
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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Yeah at the tcm
Cool. Ill def be snooping around in there then...
Jesus Christ Corb....I would have had a superduty bonfire by now if I were in your shoes...I couldn't imagine footing the bill on all the transmissions youve went through in the past few weeks

I'm no help on the issue but...good luck buddy

Yeah, I am clse to getting there... But, in other news, my bike is running GREAT! LOL So, of my 4 vehicles, I can at least count on one of them...
 

Dzchey21

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I just remembered on my black truck I had issues with the Trans not shifting when I had issues with the two plugs that you take apart to lift the cab right under the brake master cylinder.

The Damn things have to be connected all the way or they don't work right. Luckily on mine since the cab had been off 30 times the plug was completely trashed I had to actually zip tie it tight at the lake to fix it.

It did other odd stuff like make the fan run, a/c compressor wouldn't cycle, dashdaq would loose communication.

Look into that pull the left inner fender check the pins and plugs and make sure nothing is pushed back. I also had the 5v reference wire for the egt.sensors pushed out that would cause a no start situation sometimes
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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I just remembered on my black truck I had issues with the Trans not shifting when I had issues with the two plugs that you take apart to lift the cab right under the brake master cylinder.

The Damn things have to be connected all the way or they don't work right. Luckily on mine since the cab had been off 30 times the plug was completely trashed I had to actually zip tie it tight at the lake to fix it.

It did other odd stuff like make the fan run, a/c compressor wouldn't cycle, dashdaq would loose communication.

Look into that pull the left inner fender check the pins and plugs and make sure nothing is pushed back. I also had the 5v reference wire for the egt.sensors pushed out that would cause a no start situation sometimes

Cool. I am making a list of **** to check. Thanks guys!
 

WoodBoy

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I would definately check any and all grounds good. Thats the most important for DC
 

Dzchey21

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Yep check the ground under the right front cab mount under the feet of the passenger.

Also check the ground on the right fender near the battery
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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new development... I am getting shocked everytime i open my door... not like drag your feet on the carpet, static type of shock. but more of a painful episode kind of shock... FML
 

Zmann

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You don't have a GEM module

they did away with those o3 or before ? and now relays dedicated Modules and the actual dash cluster take the place of them

My frigging Tahoe shocks Me as did My o5 GMC I always hated that

I figured it was the fabric seats ? I learned how to close the door without using my Hand LOL
 

TurboM700

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FYI on battery voltage. Normal driving down the road with lights,ac and heater on high you should be seeing 14.5 and with no load you want 14.7 .

This is for all vehicles except VW, Audi they only charge there battery to 14.2 and by doing this they shorten the life of there batterys.

A typical automotive battery is fully charge at 12.7 and 12.5 volts if 50% charge and 12.2 its 25% charge.

If this was my truck I would take a really close look at the alternator and make sure its not putting out AC voltage and screwing with the computers in the truck. I have seen pletny of superdutys that will loose a diode or 2 in the rectifier and cause weird issues.

Just my 2 cents.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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FYI on battery voltage. Normal driving down the road with lights,ac and heater on high you should be seeing 14.5 and with no load you want 14.7 .

This is for all vehicles except VW, Audi they only charge there battery to 14.2 and by doing this they shorten the life of there batterys.

A typical automotive battery is fully charge at 12.7 and 12.5 volts if 50% charge and 12.2 its 25% charge.

If this was my truck I would take a really close look at the alternator and make sure its not putting out AC voltage and screwing with the computers in the truck. I have seen pletny of superdutys that will loose a diode or 2 in the rectifier and cause weird issues.

Just my 2 cents.
I have not heard that yet... I now have something else to look into... thanks man.

Off to Rudy's.
 

Zmann

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FYI on battery voltage. Normal driving down the road with lights,ac and heater on high you should be seeing 14.5 and with no load you want 14.7 .

I disagree completely lower voltages than what you posted doesn't reflect an issue

The charging system in most vehicles will generally produce a voltage between 13.5 and 14.4 volts while the engine is running. It has to generate more voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. This may seem strange, but the current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage was the same as the battery voltage. A greater difference of potential (voltage) between the battery's voltage and the alternator's output voltage will provide a faster charging rate.
 
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TurboM700

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I disagree completely lower voltages than what you posted doesn't reflect an issue

It does when the system is designed to be run at 14.5 or better and your only charging to less.

This may not be the problem with Chris truck I just thought he should check it out.

I have been in the auto industry for almost 15yrs. 99% of the vehicles I see that are charging less then 14.5 volts have some kind of either alt. issue or battery issue or those that are computer controlled alt. have a computer problem.

I cant speak for the 08 or newer trucks but I know the later ones the alt. has the regulator built it. (two wire hook up)
 

Zmann

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If we took a poll I bet very few would see voltages that High and most of us have that as a PID we monitor

even those of us with High amp High idle output aftermarket alternators don't see voltages that high as a normal output

and unless it's a dual alt truck the PCM has no interaction with the alt and even then it doesn't dictate the output
 
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