Anything wrong with going 0.040" over?

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

Have a very bad feeling...and I'm probably pullin the engine out of the truck.
Tuning has not been stellar as of late, and bouncing off the rev limiter has left the engine with a "miss".
Trying to think of what it could be, but most everything is new...

-new Bulletproof 6 phase FICM, set to 58 volts.
-new hybrid injectors, ran smooth until bouncing revs caused a miss.
-new Schaffers oil, as per Jesse's instructions for his injectors....with two bottles of Rev-X added.

Anyone have anything bad to say about going 0.040" over? Since I'm already 0.020" over, I thought of maybe ordering Pistons now....

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

Thought maybe a pushrod jumped out, and causing the miss, but damn it's gonna be a lot of work tearing into it to find out.
Maybe a cracked rocker arm....

Zmann · Apr 25, 2016

you really only want to go over as far as you really need so you may have another turn later down the road
but if your looking for every ounce of power then 6.26 is a 40 over 6.0

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

Got another stock block here too, but thought about unshrouding the valves a bit more...
The block in the truck has already been re-honed once after being bored 0.020" over...thought I'd skip the 0.030" and straighten everything out.

Zmann · Apr 25, 2016

Interesting

I guess if the pistons for 40 over are readily available it would be the way to go for you

78f100 · Apr 25, 2016

I didn't think 40 over pistons were available unless they are custom. I'm sure you have but all the push rods look good and straight? Did you compression test it yet?
edit: i was wrong they are available just found lots online.

Zmann · Apr 25, 2016

I thought 40 was available then it was custom ?
google ;-)

Zmann · Apr 25, 2016

forty over on Amazon for reference only but I would buy from a sponsor on here

http://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Pistons-Powerstroke-Clevite-Coated/dp/B00V966LAC

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

78f100 said:
I didn't think 40 over pistons were available unless they are custom. I'm sure you have but all the push rods look good and straight? Did you compression test it yet?
edit: i was wrong they are available just found lots online.

Haven't even pulled a cover off yet.
Still pissed off about it, and I go back to work again tomorrow.
Getting tunes through emails suck.:fustrate:

Hoping it would be something like a broken rocker arm, as the push rods are chromoly, and the springs have plenty of pressure to keep it from floating any valves.

The bitch still rips the tires off, but really...even down a hundred or so in horse power...it should...its just not idling smooth, and I can't take it on the highway, cuz when it locks up, the whole truck shakes BAD.

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

Zmann said:
forty over on Amazon for reference only but I would buy from a sponsor on here

http://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Pistons-Powerstroke-Clevite-Coated/dp/B00V966LAC

Yeah, I found those already...I want a set that are de-lipped this time.
The local shop I called this afternoon asking what they would charge to de-lip a set of pistons didn't even know what the heck I was talking about.:fustrate:

I obviously live in the wrong country for anything diesel related.

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

And I hate taking my truck to a dealership...
To be charged $150.00/hour to be told..."Nothing showed up on the scan tool...so we would have to tear into it until we found what the issue is"....is pretty much what I would do myself....tear into it.

nighthawk285 · Apr 25, 2016

Lol you must live close to me. Anytime I go into a local parts house and machine shop needing anything performance related I get a full on deer in the headlights look.

Bustedknuckles · Apr 25, 2016

Take it to a shop and get a compression test done via a graphing lab scope and amp clamp. It will only take about 20 minutes and will tell you whether its mechanical or not and if so which cylinder.

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

Bustedknuckles said:
Take it to a shop and get a compression test done via a graphing lab scope and amp clamp. It will only take about 20 minutes and will tell you whether its mechanical or not and if so which cylinder.

Do they need access to the glow plugs?
How do they do a compression test without actually measuring the compression?

Not trying to be a smart a$$, just would like to know, thanks.

Bustedknuckles · Apr 25, 2016

Extended Power said:
Do they need access to the glow plugs?
How do they do a compression test without actually measuring the compression?

Not trying to be a smart a$$, just would like to know, thanks.

It works by graphing the amperage draw of the starter. The lower compression cylinder takes less amperage to go past TDC on the compression stroke so you have a low spot on your graph. Pull the easiest to access glow plug which will cause a severe low spot on your graph and use your firing order to figure out which hole is the low one. Works like a charm!

Cutting-Edge Diesel · Apr 25, 2016

Crank it over with out starting it and see how it sounds. Unplug the starter wire on the passanger side fender and jump it to the positive on the battery. But if I remember right you have compounds so your battery is probably on the driver side. Have to jump the wire or pull your FICM relay and crank it with the key. But that's the eaiest way to test the condition of the motor. Nice smooth crank means healthy. Hard spot is normaly bent push rod or really messed up bore. Fast spot is compression leak.

KCTurbos · Apr 25, 2016

I have run .040 on multiple trucks. There is plenty of meat. I have heard if you wanted to you could go .120 over and end up with a 6.4. There is the same amount of meat in both blocks.

I am running .040 mahle pistons that we delipped and cut custom valve reliefs on. Truck runs awesome.

Pull the oil fill cap and see if any of the cylinders are "poofing" more than the rest.

The other way like matt said is to pull the starter wire over by the passenger batter and touch it to the positive battery terminal. While turning it over listen to hear if any of the cylinders "sound" faster than the rest.

06f250powerstroke · Apr 25, 2016

I'm in the same boat went to do an oil change and found a chunk of my oil ring try dfc for pistons there not far from you pm me your number we can chat via text if you want

Extended Power · Apr 25, 2016

One of the changes I did this last winter is installed a new starter....a 6.4L starter.
Boy do they even wheel the engines over quick!

I might take it in next set off, but I can't even drive it on the highway, as it shakes too much in overdrive. Don't really wanna phuk it up any worse than it already is.

Injectors are all new as well, so I can't see that being the issue.....and again...it ran fine up until the last time it bounced off the rev limiter a couple times.

Strokethis04 · Apr 26, 2016

Use a temp gun and check the manifold on each cylinder to see what ones not as hot that one is missing and pull the valve cover off

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk