Ok, working on my Dad's 02 7.3. Guy he sold it to said it needed a motor, so dad bought it back half price. Ended up being 2.5 gallons low on oil, so no ICP. After we got it running it never would start right even after a 300-400 miles. Still started like crap. Does have blowby, but still ran ok. Then last week, it had no power, missing, and died. Now i hooked AE up, and buzz seems to be ok, but then says: Cylinder 7 high to low side open, as well as 3,5,6,8. Also says Injector high side open Bank 2. Is this looking like the IDM took a crap?
Bad IDM?
- Thread starter dthompson
- Start date
Baker42
New member
Id start at the ipr. Unhook the idm and look for signs of electrolysis on the connector
David N
Active member
Just swap the IDM with a known good one.
It does have high pressure oil while cranking. I know that the motor needs changed, but ol' dad will drive it till it gives up. Think I might have an IDM that i could swap it out with. Guess I will give that a shot for now.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
swap idm and if that works.
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PSDEng
New member
I've seen those high/low side open codes be fixed with new UVCH
If it passes buzz test it's probably fine. Sounds more like uvch unplugged. I'd pull valve covers first.
While VCs are off pull compression then you'll know if that's why it was losing oil or injector oring problems.
While VCs are off pull compression then you'll know if that's why it was losing oil or injector oring problems.
Last edited:
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Arisley
Moderator
Explain to me how it could pass a buzz test with the UVCH unplugged?
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Blowby? enough to blow the oil fill cap off the inlet?
Those high to low opens take in both banks so I can understand looking at the IDM. To me if you have a IDM handy or can borrow one its quicker and easier to swap the IDM than to pull both VC. Not to mention with the IDM connector pulled you can OHM out the entire circuit going from the IDM to each injector and each banks ground. Of course check the outside plug top each VC. Making sure its secure. Here is a link to the procedure ( you need a mulitmeter) http://www.gbreman.com/techbulletin_103.html Takes me about 30 min to get into the wheel well unhook test and close it up but I have done this a few times. It should OHM out ideally 2.8-3.0 but spec is supposedly up to 3.6 ohm. They should be fairly consistent from one injector circuit to the next.
If it does need UVCH harnesses only use Ford or IH.
Also look at the harness where it crossed the driverside VC. It can rub and wear thru and short.
Personally I would pull the IDM connector anyways and test and leave it open after. If it shows you have shorts etc once you have changed out the UVCHs you can then retest and be sure that all the injector circuits are good from inj to idm meaning no wiring issues. Then you can plug it in and rerun the tests and see. If its still got IDM code issues you can swap the IDM to see. Do all of this with closing up the VC either to be sure. That way if its injectors themselves you already have it open.
I hate repeating things over and over again if I do not have to so once something is opened up I try to do all I can before buttoning things up to ensure as best I can that I do not have break it open again for the same issue.
Those high to low opens take in both banks so I can understand looking at the IDM. To me if you have a IDM handy or can borrow one its quicker and easier to swap the IDM than to pull both VC. Not to mention with the IDM connector pulled you can OHM out the entire circuit going from the IDM to each injector and each banks ground. Of course check the outside plug top each VC. Making sure its secure. Here is a link to the procedure ( you need a mulitmeter) http://www.gbreman.com/techbulletin_103.html Takes me about 30 min to get into the wheel well unhook test and close it up but I have done this a few times. It should OHM out ideally 2.8-3.0 but spec is supposedly up to 3.6 ohm. They should be fairly consistent from one injector circuit to the next.
If it does need UVCH harnesses only use Ford or IH.
Also look at the harness where it crossed the driverside VC. It can rub and wear thru and short.
Personally I would pull the IDM connector anyways and test and leave it open after. If it shows you have shorts etc once you have changed out the UVCHs you can then retest and be sure that all the injector circuits are good from inj to idm meaning no wiring issues. Then you can plug it in and rerun the tests and see. If its still got IDM code issues you can swap the IDM to see. Do all of this with closing up the VC either to be sure. That way if its injectors themselves you already have it open.
I hate repeating things over and over again if I do not have to so once something is opened up I try to do all I can before buttoning things up to ensure as best I can that I do not have break it open again for the same issue.
buschpoweredstroker
New member
You don't have to worry about your motor being junk from running it low on oil... within seconds of losing low pressure oil the engine won't run because you won't have any High pressure oil either to fire the injectors. Kind of like a safety shut off. I have to mention it because no one else has, have you tried a new cam sensor?
Old idm still shows same codes after the test. New one is clean. Buzz is good on all injectors. What am I missing? Motor give up finally? Had enough blow by to bounce the cap and started hard then idled rough before this.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Whats icp and ipr dc while cranking?
live life full throttle
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