Bad ipr or hpop?

Brad.S.19

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Sorry for posting so many threads I am trying to learn on the fly with everything and all I tried searching could not find exactly what I was looking for. I have minor oil collection in the valley by the turbo I cleaned by the lines and any connections is where I started. Life got in the way have not finished it but lately new oil has been showing up by the rear cover of the hpo reservoir and lines near the fuel bowl. Lately when I come of the throttle it hesitates to go back to idle then is a very harsh rompy idle the tick has been more noticeable when I am going up grades or after the rompy idle has happened. This has been about 150 miles or so I was averaging 16.5 hand calculated now it is 12.7 on a 40 mile stretch at 45-55 mph same fuel station. Power seems to have dropped from before throttle hesitation and lack of pull when the turbo lights it feels as it has run out of fuel before air.
 

golfer

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obfuscate a question much?

seriously though...

clean the engine valley with brake cleaner and compressed air...bone dry/spotless...then try to determine the source.

there are (literally) ~ 22 o-ring seals on the HPOil system...if any one of those are weeping the slightest amount..you'll have 'oil in the valley'.

you have to figure out which one(s) is the culprit...but first...start with a bone dry valley.

you may have to repeat this process a few times to hone in on the 'area'...to hopefully isolate 'the' source.
 

TARM

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Aren't all running 7.3 suppose to have oil in the valley? LOL
 

lincolnlocker

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obfuscate a question much?

seriously though...

clean the engine valley with brake cleaner and compressed air...bone dry/spotless...then try to determine the source.

there are (literally) ~ 22 o-ring seals on the HPOil system...if any one of those are weeping the slightest amount..you'll have 'oil in the valley'.

you have to figure out which one(s) is the culprit...but first...start with a bone dry valley.

you may have to repeat this process a few times to hone in on the 'area'...to hopefully isolate 'the' source.

Dam... guess I never paid that close of attention to know that there are 22 freaking o rings that could possibly leak oil into the valley.





Aren't all running 7.3 suppose to have oil in the valley? LOL
Lol







I get scared that I've run out of oil when mine doesn't.
Lmao! Thats a good one.


live life full throttle
 

TARM

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Dam... guess I never paid that close of attention to know that there are 22 freaking o rings that could possibly leak oil into the valley. LOL

live life full throttle



Now see how many you can name without looking it up online or on a diagram.

Not sure I would get everyone like I hope I would but its sort of like naming all 50 states. It seems easy and as if you would know them all from memory but you end up at 46 or 47 the first couple times thru. LOL
 

lincolnlocker

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Now see how many you can name without looking it up online or on a diagram.

Not sure I would get everyone like I hope I would but its sort of like naming all 50 states. It seems easy and as if you would know them all from memory but you end up at 46 or 47 the first couple times thru. LOL

Lol. Thate for sure..

Good to see you posting again sir!

live life full throttle
 

Brad.S.19

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Seems legit, Looked it over was going to begin the cleaning just noticed that ball of joy and pixie dust.

http://[URL=http://s62.photobucket.com/user/bradrs19/media/20140522_142920_zpsozczpkbo.jpg.html]
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http://[URL=http://s62.photobucket.com/user/bradrs19/media/20140522_142907_zpsuy16guzq.jpg.html]
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ToMang07

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Looks like typical CCV/CAC oil residue there to me. Very unlikely to be a source of pooled oil in the valley.
 

TARM

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I loath those cheap style worm clamps. Is it the oil you are pointing to or that the clamp is loose? It looks like there is a gap but pic make it hard to be sure.
 

Brad.S.19

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It is a typical Home Depot screw on clamp for the inter cooler pipes and the oil is more focused on the turbo pedestal area. But this stuff Is everywhere it Is thick and nasty hard to clean it is like sludge with its daily dose of crack.
 
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Just about every 7.3 that has never had the engine bay cleaned will have oily residue all around the Intercooler boots. The crank case vent is right before the turbo so oily mist gets to travel through every thing before it gets to where it's "intended" to burn off. So it ends up slowly weeping past the boots over so many miles. I wouldn't sweat it.


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mandkole

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that turbo outlet clamp is a vband that is worm gear driven on the clamp strap that is tacked to it. remove it and check to see what condition the oring is within the joint. It shouldnt really allow leakage.
 

TARM

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I am strict on that. I get diesels especially HUEI get dirty but for me its sure easier to work on and diagnose issues on a clean engine and engine bay.

I still recall the mess I got all over me pulling the a IC when I turned it up on end from a truck with the factory CCV to intake still in place. It had a moderate amount of blow by. I swear it dumped what seemed like a quart of sludge on me. LOL
 

Brad.S.19

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Yeah it is fixed now loose fitting with mild damage to the o-ring runs better but the tick is pissing me off I can not figure it out had scan performed by a family friend and nothing. He thinks it is the injector wiring harness has some issues and the gremlins of a prepubescent child wiring job in the engine bay and dash region. I bet there is two rolls of electrical tape and half a dozen spade clip splices that are works of fubar art. The oily sludge crap is all blow by I think I may reroute it to the exhaust or under the truck with a catch can. The ebpv is being difficult I think not sure how it works fully but the truck lights very late 1900-2100 then goes full bore boost then the waste gate kicks in when it shifts or I just spin the tires when it is wet and go sideways. Granted I do not drive like a tool 90% of the time but is annoying when just driving along at stop lights then start spinning when it lights.
 
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TARM

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You should be getting a code if it's in the wiring harness between the IDM and injectors. If your friend had a scanner for the ford's and 7.3 he should have been able to do a contribution testx what about a buzz test to check the soleniods?

You almost never see those come out without a issue if there is something a miss. Did he not get any errors, codes, or failures?
 

Brad.S.19

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You should be getting a code if it's in the wiring harness between the IDM and injectors. If your friend had a scanner for the ford's and 7.3 he should have been able to do a contribution testx what about a buzz test to check the soleniods?

You almost never see those come out without a issue if there is something a miss. Did he not get any errors, codes, or failures?

When he did the scan I had bad batteries and a few other issues that may have contributed to the odd results. I got new batteries since then all I notice is cold knock and the ticking is much quieter and less noticable I tried making a video but it is much to quiet. It has a 2002 275/525 manual flash upgrade package/1.0 a/r thingy that was done by the dealer early in its life much creditabilty not sure as this was from a dealers computer search. +200 tc larger trans cooler and the recalls I say bs until it hits some rollers or more credible evidence that comes my way the engine is a oct 2000 build sticker but the truck is a early 2001 may iirc.

It has undersized tires on it with the 3:73s is kinda annoying I do not know if that contributes to the issues. The engine bay looks stock but the turbo is not internally it has a aftermarket wheel of some sort. I am guessing the previous owner was not the best on oil changes or used crap oil because since I have been using rotella 15w-40 it has made a huge difference in the quality of the engines operation I may need a set of injectors before this winter.

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