Batteries keep dying!!!!!

birdco85

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Quick back story, truck is overall in good condition. About 6-8 months ago I went on a camping trip with my camper. Came home and flipped the switch to activate my electric corner jacks, did my thing, and forgot to turn the switch off. The switch activates a control box (relays), so I left the relays activated for about 2 weeks. The whole time the camper was still connected to the truck. Went out to the camper and noticed that the switch was still on, turned it off, and realized that the two truck batteries and the camper battery were dead. I have the camper wired to the truck the truck batteries without a solenoid due to having a 60 watt solar panel on the roof of the camper. So in theory, the solar panel will recharge all 3 batteries.

Well it couldn't keep up apparently and the batteries were more dead than Hostess. Jumped the truck and thought all was good. Well about another few weeks pass (I don't drive the truck much) and the batteries were dead again. Jumped again and drove it a good while to charge them. All was good for the next couple weeks probably because I drove it every couple days. About a month ago, I replaced the batteries ( I love Costco) after doing my injectors and efuel and all the fun stuff. Went out today, and they are so dead I'm getting about 4 volts and the battery.

So I did the usual, disconnected the batteries, connected my multimeter in line, and did an amp check. Im pulling about .05-.06 amps. I pulled every fuse one by one and the only thing that made it change was the dome and stereo fuse. I have a had a small Harbor Freight charger connected to it for the last couple weeks to maintain them. I did go out to the truck yesterday, didn't start it, but fixed the explorer overhead console, and my keyless entry worked fine. The voltmeter did look a little bit lower than normal when I turned the key on to check the OHC.

So, in the research I've done, it looks like there a couple things that can do it, such as the battery cables and alternator. Does anyone have any experience with this? My positive cable on the passenger side does have a small bit of corrosion on it (not much at all) and I do not get the battery light. Is there any other things that I should check, voltages of amps?

Thanks guys, this is definitely stumping me.
 

PsRumors

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I would have the alternator checked. My bet is the regulator in it is burned up.

Most alternators are not designed to charge a completely dead battery.
 

birdco85

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So if the regulator goes bad does it have a constant draw.

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bad12jr

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Never let the alternator do that much work. That is more then likely your problem. Take it to a good rebuilder and get a good charger for your batteries. 2 amp for 12 hours should do it. Charge them seprately. Then get them load tested. Also, put a solenoid on the camper feed that only has power with the engine running. That way you are still charging it while driving.

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birdco85

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Yeah I was thinking about a Perko style switch on the batteries in case the camper dies and I need to get the generator started. Then it will charge everything. But yeah, I'm pretty tech savvy, been doing car and boat electrical for over 10 years before my current job. Us there an all in one kit to rebuild the alternator? I have no problem doing it myself. And I won't get the batteries load tested, just exchange them, that's why I love Costco :D

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Redpower

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To start these trucks you need the full 12 volts. I've had the same problem with my F-350. Batterys would be weak after not driving for 3-4 weeks and I'd have to boost them to start. Finally I took the time to disconnect them, charge them and load test. Results were one battery 11.4V, the other 10.1. I put new batterys in and haven't had anymore problems.
 

birdco85

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I literally just replaced them about a month ago. They shouldn't have died that fast. I've done some more reading and found someone that had his voltage regulator go bad and it put a constant draw on the batteries.

Any one know if a way to test this?

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PsRumors

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I literally just replaced them about a month ago. They shouldn't have died that fast. I've done some more reading and found someone that had his voltage regulator go bad and it put a constant draw on the batteries.

Any one know if a way to test this?

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Take the alternator to advance, autozone Orielly's or some place like that. They should be able to check it.
 

Bugman

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Most autopart stores do not have the capability of testing a alternator when it is removed from a vehicle. Also if the batteries are brand new and will not hold a charge, take them back to where you bought them and have them tested.
 

birdco85

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I understand about the batteries, but something had to kill these things in less than a Month. I think I have a different issue. But I'll check the alternator and I will replace the batteries again, just want to fix the actual problem

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PsRumors

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Most autopart stores do not have the capability of testing a alternator when it is removed from a vehicle. Also if the batteries are brand new and will not hold a charge, take them back to where you bought them and have them tested.

Most stores around here DO have the capability of testing the alternator when it is removed from the vehicle. About the only one that doesn't is Walmart.

Seems to be a very common machine.
 

bad12jr

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The batteries dying twice completely and being jumped could have killed some cells.

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birdco85

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Yeah i understand that, just wondering what made then die in the first place?

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PsRumors

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Yeah i understand that, just wondering what made then die in the first place?

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THE ALTERNATOR

My bet is your alternator is bad and is killing the batteries. Been here done that on another Ford. Never seen it happen on a Chevy or a Dodge but have on a Ford Ranger.

Have the alternator checked to see if it or the internal voltage regulator is bad.

If you don't want to take the alternator off and have it checked start the truck and put your volt meter on the battery, see how many volts with the truck running, should be 14v. THIS STILL DOESN'T MEAN THERE IS NO PROBLEM but if you only have 12 or so volts then you know it is.
 

birdco85

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Ok, that was the sort of answer i was looking for. I know you said alternator before but i had no idea that a bad alternator could kill batteries just sitting there. I will take it off and have it checked. If it checks bad could I just replace the regulator? Thank you for the answer

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PsRumors

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You would have to have someone that can rebuild the alternator to rebuild the regulator at which point you might as well have the whole thing rebuilt.
 

birdco85

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Any thoughts on an auto zone one? They are lifetime warranty. Its 160 plus its not remand, its 100% new. Got a couple quotes and they all were in 150 range. With like a6 month warranty. Hard to say no to a lifetime warranty

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POWER-STRUCK

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Quick back story, truck is overall in good condition. About 6-8 months ago I went on a camping trip with my camper. Came home and flipped the switch to activate my electric corner jacks, did my thing, and forgot to turn the switch off. The switch activates a control box (relays), so I left the relays activated for about 2 weeks. The whole time the camper was still connected to the truck. Went out to the camper and noticed that the switch was still on, turned it off, and realized that the two truck batteries and the camper battery were dead. I have the camper wired to the truck the truck batteries without a solenoid due to having a 60 watt solar panel on the roof of the camper. So in theory, the solar panel will recharge all 3 batteries.

Well it couldn't keep up apparently and the batteries were more dead than Hostess. Jumped the truck and thought all was good. Well about another few weeks pass (I don't drive the truck much) and the batteries were dead again. Jumped again and drove it a good while to charge them. All was good for the next couple weeks probably because I drove it every couple days. About a month ago, I replaced the batteries ( I love Costco) after doing my injectors and efuel and all the fun stuff. Went out today, and they are so dead I'm getting about 4 volts and the battery.

So I did the usual, disconnected the batteries, connected my multimeter in line, and did an amp check. Im pulling about .05-.06 amps. I pulled every fuse one by one and the only thing that made it change was the dome and stereo fuse. I have a had a small Harbor Freight charger connected to it for the last couple weeks to maintain them. I did go out to the truck yesterday, didn't start it, but fixed the explorer overhead console, and my keyless entry worked fine. The voltmeter did look a little bit lower than normal when I turned the key on to check the OHC.

So, in the research I've done, it looks like there a couple things that can do it, such as the battery cables and alternator. Does anyone have any experience with this? My positive cable on the passenger side does have a small bit of corrosion on it (not much at all) and I do not get the battery light. Is there any other things that I should check, voltages of amps?

Thanks guys, this is definitely stumping me.

did you do the drain test on the ground side?
 

PsRumors

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Any thoughts on an auto zone one? They are lifetime warranty. Its 160 plus its not remand, its 100% new. Got a couple quotes and they all were in 150 range. With like a6 month warranty. Hard to say no to a lifetime warranty

Sent from my Droid RAZR because I told it to...

There are better alternators out there but they will be significantly more. When Dad still had my truck he put an Advance Auto unit on it. That was in 2004 and it quit right before Christmas '12. Being short on cash (have 4 kids) took it to them and Dad had bought one with a lifetime warranty, it was no hassle exchange.
 

birdco85

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Yeah there are better ones but for twice as much, if love to do another Ford one but way too much money. The lifetime its what is selling me, can't beat that

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