Best options for longevity (engine build)

Wicked

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Well I am getting my engine rebuilt and am about to order parts. Everything checked out with the heads and block... does need .010 over.

I am running 250cc/100, 1.15 38r, arp studs, srp1, 910 springs, p-rods, walboro pump, rr, 5" exhaust, bts converter/pump mod/vb, and intake.

Made 545rwhp 1,243rwtq on Bean's dyno live tuned

I am not looking to make any more power. In fact I am sending my chip back to Johnathan to burn me an awesome 450 hp daily tune that has everything I want but won't kill my engine. I don't really race and don't ever tow anything really. Never going to go to the 1/4 mile or anything.

I am about to order the engine parts and have a few questions. I am looking to make this thing live for a long long long time and want to do it right.

I am really thinking about the Ford complete overhaul kit + Melling LPOP ($1,200). I would have the rods cryo'd ($not sure) as well as get the oil guard kit/fs2500 ($350-$450).

I have had mixed people tell me different things:

-Coat the pistons ($50 a piston x 8 = $400)
-ARP main studs ($300)
-Total Seal Rings ($550)
-Radius the bowls on the pistons ($not sure)
-Stud Girdle ($1,100)

Do I really need this other ****? Coating? Main Studs? Girdle? Etc?

What do I REALLY need to make this work and live a long time for me?

I am not looking to just go wasting money on building a race truck that will never be raced. I just want to build a 450rwhp engine that can take occasional bursts with the 550 tune.
 

thuglike

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Sup bud....long time no see. Hard to imagine that rig wet the bed for you. It ran great at my place.

My internals are coated but I do not have any fill or a girdle.

I am running h-11's with stock h/g's.
DI push rods.
crowers
bottom is balanced.

I have been running at my current level for 6 years now. Tuning is your key and your tuner is a real good one.
 

Wicked

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Sup bud....long time no see. Hard to imagine that rig wet the bed for you. It ran great at my place.

My internals are coated but I do not have any fill or a girdle.

I am running h-11's with stock h/g's.
DI push rods.
crowers
bottom is balanced.

I have been running at my current level for 6 years now. Tuning is your key and your tuner is a real good one.

Yea it was wierd. It started getting cold out and my truck would smoke like all hell in the morning. Took it to three different shops and the last one ran a compression test on it. Got 290-305 on 6 cylinders, 325 on one, and 360 on the last one. I talked to Johnathan about it and was going to contact you until I got those compression numbers. The engine has been out for a month now and is up at J&E Performance. I am just wondering if all that stuff is needed or just overkill.
 

Wicked

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Okay so I ordered:

-Ford Complete rebuild kit .010 over
-Having the pistons' bowls machined
-Welded piston squirters w/ new bolts
-Ford water pump and thermostat
-Valve cover gaskets and harnesses
-Rods are getting Cryo'd


Any other suggestions?
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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You probably wont need cryo treating on the rods, coating on the pistons wont give you performance, however it will cut down on heat cycle stresses. The coating wont stay on the pistons forever however. I would do total seal rings. Put them in my built engine, I don't think they are quite that expensive, I just bought hastings rings, and the total seal kit is only installed on the second ring land
 

SkySki Jason

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Big Bore

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Since you already ordered the rebuild kit, it's a little late in the game but...after a conversation with David Lott I'm completely convinced that having the block sleeved is the right way to begin a build. It's the only way you can know that your cylinder walls have not been compromised by cavitation in the coolant.
 

Wicked

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Just got all the parts in
.. how does the quality of machine work on these pistons?

20120216_162813.jpg


aopshop
 
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TyCorr

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Since you already ordered the rebuild kit, it's a little late in the game but...after a conversation with David Lott I'm completely convinced that having the block sleeved is the right way to begin a build. It's the only way you can know that your cylinder walls have not been compromised by cavitation in the coolant.

Would hardblok help if there was liner cavitation? Or is that like putting a bandaid on the problem?
 

Wicked

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RiffRaff... I did not know if I should have trusted them to do it but the price was only $200 so I figured I would give it a shot. Looks like it paid off that's good to know.
 

jkidd_39

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Pistons look great. I hope the build goes well for you. Clay does great work.

I do agree with Big Bore about sleeving the cylinders. I have seen quite a few 7.3's that had pin holes in the cylinders..

However for what you are planning the price of machining and sleeving just seems excessive..
 

weekendwarriorfsw32

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Machine work looks good to me, and better than some I have seen by far. Usually I see tool marks on them and they don't take the time to radius the corners, which is just half assed. If you only paid $200 you must have got a heck of a deal because when I have talked to some companies they want close to $600.
 

Wicked

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Yea 600 was what I was getting quoted. When Clay told me 200 I was shocked. I thought it was to good to be true but I am glad everyone says they look good.
 

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