brakes dragging on all four corners after axle swap

lariat 7.3

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hey guys, just completed an 05 axle swap and am having some trouble. The axles i swapped in are dragging the brakes on all four corners. The rotors were pretty rusty and now most of that is gone. I bled them and lubed the slide pins before assembly. Brakes are super touchy. Hit the bleeder and nothing comes out so i dont think its under pressure. HELP
 

lariat 7.3

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All four at once...? I can move them with a c clamp

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lariat 7.3

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Getting new calipers in front, new hoses and going to see what happens, rear still seem to be dragging a bit if I use a pry bar between the lugs

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lariat 7.3

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Yeah that's what's making me think the calipers are trashed, open bleeder and have to beat it off the rotor cuz it's stuck so bad. No pressure release when I crack it

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04stroker

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Any axle swap we have done we had to install all new calipers. If they sit in a scrap yard or wherever long at all they tend to sieze up and stick from what I have seen as soon as they are used.
 

lariat 7.3

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Any axle swap we have done we had to install all new calipers. If they sit in a scrap yard or wherever long at all they tend to sieze up and stick from what I have seen as soon as they are used.
Yeah that's what it is, swapped new fronts on and they're good, headed to grab the rears now, pedal is spongy but no air is coming out

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Arisley

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When you get the rears on, gravity bleed. Put a piece of clear hose on the bleeders. Open the bleeders and put the end of the hoses in Coke bottles. Gatorade or beer bottles will also work. Take the top off the master cylinder and keep the reservoir full. Sit back and enjoy a beer or three while air bleeds out of the system. When nice clear clean brake fluid is coming out of the hoses you know it is clear. Make sure you have a couple quarts of brake fluid on hand. Do not let the reservoir go empty or you have to start over.
While this is the slowest way to bleed a brake system, it is also the best way.
 

lariat 7.3

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Yeah that's how I used to do my original axles, these won't gravity bleed for some reason.... Good news is it's actually not dragging anymore. Only took four calipers. Why wouldn't it gravity bleed now?

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sootie

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When you get the rears on, gravity bleed. Put a piece of clear hose on the bleeders. Open the bleeders and put the end of the hoses in Coke bottles. Gatorade or beer bottles will also work. Take the top off the master cylinder and keep the reservoir full. Sit back and enjoy a beer or three while air bleeds out of the system. When nice clear clean brake fluid is coming out of the hoses you know it is clear. Make sure you have a couple quarts of brake fluid on hand. Do not let the reservoir go empty or you have to start over.
While this is the slowest way to bleed a brake system, it is also the best way.

better yet-take long clear lines and run them up higher than the master cylinder (like over the box rails). fill the reservoir and watch the bubbles. you only lose the fluid that is in the clear lines once you are done bleeding, and you have no mess or have to babysit it while it gravity bleeds. typically i would fill the system enough to know that i could leave it overnight without draining the master cylinder. come in the next morning and tighten the bleeders and pump the pedal several times and do a quick bleed to be sure.
 

TyCorr

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better yet-take long clear lines and run them up higher than the master cylinder (like over the box rails). fill the reservoir and watch the bubbles. you only lose the fluid that is in the clear lines once you are done bleeding, and you have no mess or have to babysit it while it gravity bleeds. typically i would fill the system enough to know that i could leave it overnight without draining the master cylinder. come in the next morning and tighten the bleeders and pump the pedal several times and do a quick bleed to be sure.

How many times you done this? Im going to replace all my lines and brakes and its hard to get help when I have time to work on it. If its this easy, this is my new trick.
 

sootie

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How many times you done this? Im going to replace all my lines and brakes and its hard to get help when I have time to work on it. If its this easy, this is my new trick.

just did it last week on a 1970 C10. after i typed that i realized that i might be comparing apples to oranges tho. two biggest things are to make sure you dont get an air pocket in the master and have it airlock or your bubbles will never make it to the caliper(you will need to bleed at the master). The other thing is to make sure you have enough fluid in there that it wont empty the master when the air is displaced.
 

1BD9D7

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I had a problem for weeks with my old 2005 F250 brakes. They would drag and get hot after only 25-50 miles of driving. I replaced one front caliper, then the next time they got hot we took apart the rear end brakes and I had installed the stupid little clips incorrectly AND there was some paint that collected in the groove where the pads are supposed so slide. Take all four back apart and make sure there's not paint or any roughness in the part where the pads slide in and out.
 

ithumpwheniwalk

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I've just gone through this for the third (and final) time I hope. Once the calipers start sticking, I've been unable to ever make them function properly again. Take em apart, grease sliders, rinse repeat.. still sticky. I just replaced hoses, calipers, pads and hard lines. I plan on proactive maintenance, to disassemble everything 3 times a year and keep it greased. What a pita, but honestly, short of spending what, $4k for a set of Brembo's what is the alternative?
 
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