2good2Btru
Member
Trying to get some of ideas from guys that have built their engines. What did you do to break your engine in? Do burnouts like Bigrpowr, LoL. Not but serious, u guys just drive it normal for a couple days, weeks so on.
Break in of built engine
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6.4 Stroker
Member
I usually let it idol until it reaches full temp, then shut it off and let it cool completely. I would drive easy for 500 miles, do an oil change. Then drive it normal.
White_monster
Active member
Vary rpms and load. Don't hold wide open for the first 60-100miles. Loading the engine seats the rings which you want.
4.0l sahara
New member
Beat it just try any vary the load and do it in burst to set the rings.
tbsimmons
New member
This.
Let the engine torque brake that is how I have always done engines.
blk350on20s
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Add on to this question....what do you guys do for first fire up? Key off jump starter to build oil pressure or just fire it up normal since it will probably take a while to fire?
SEABEE08FX4
New member
Use a good quality break in oil like Joe Gibbs, just something high in zinc content. This is a very important step for the longevity of any fresh motor. After 500 miles of break in oil change the filter and oil and run what ever you normally run.
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tbsimmons
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Never built a diesel but on gas engines when I dont prime the engines yes I get oil pressure before the first fire. Either starter button or disconnect the ignition.
drunk on diesel
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idle briefly, verify no leaks, run it around the block a time or two, verify no leaks, drive as you normally would on a cold engine... probably not more than 1/3 throttle or so until you're at full operating temp
once engine is at full operating temp, stop, engage 4wd, and "release the fury, Mitch"
If it blows up under full load with 15 minutes of run time, it would have blown up with 15 days of run time as soon as you gave it full load.
drive it at varying load, but don't be afraid to give it the coals. I would change the oil at 500 miles, then at 1000, then at your regular interval. Honestly you could just change it at regular interval, but the early oil changes on a fresh engine are a rain dance that I can't let go of
once engine is at full operating temp, stop, engage 4wd, and "release the fury, Mitch"
If it blows up under full load with 15 minutes of run time, it would have blown up with 15 days of run time as soon as you gave it full load.
drive it at varying load, but don't be afraid to give it the coals. I would change the oil at 500 miles, then at 1000, then at your regular interval. Honestly you could just change it at regular interval, but the early oil changes on a fresh engine are a rain dance that I can't let go of
Luke@MillerPerformance
Member
I do the starter jump when the truck has multiple turbos to make sure they get plenty of oil before start up, doesn't hurt to do it even with everything stock. As far as break in, run it hard. I just got an LBZ going a few weeks ago, took 500 miles to get the rings seated, and that was driving it hard the whole time.
Fordtrucks
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Wasn't the Zink additive only needed for cam break ins back when engines had flat tappet cams and lifters? Ive never used zink on roller motors because theres really no friction on the cam with a roller lifter. Ide think a normal oil would be fine.
powerstroke22
New member
What brand and weight of oil would you guys recommend using for break in.
SEABEE08FX4
New member
Actually you do.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/roller-cams-need-break-in-too/
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/br-break-in-oilhtml/
This is what we use, I'm sure there are others out there that work just as good but just stating what we use.
you guys are wimps!!! pin it to win it!!
Generally the only thing i do is let it idle for a few minutes and check for leaks, let it get up to temp under a light load, check for leaks again... and then beat the *** out of it LOL
The engine thats in my reg cab got built, and put on a dyno less than 30 min after it ran.
Same thing we do with truck engines here, they get on the FULL load dyno right after they are rebuilt. Rings will seat no matter what.
Generally the only thing i do is let it idle for a few minutes and check for leaks, let it get up to temp under a light load, check for leaks again... and then beat the *** out of it LOL
The engine thats in my reg cab got built, and put on a dyno less than 30 min after it ran.
Same thing we do with truck engines here, they get on the FULL load dyno right after they are rebuilt. Rings will seat no matter what.
duddy
New member
Agreed, standard practice for any engine I had rebuilt while I worked at cummins.
Prelube engine, with a remote lube or cranking over.
get up to temp while backing in the dyno and chaining down.
Some engines when 1/2 load ten minutes, then 3/4 for 5, then bring it to its know several times. cool down at 1/2 load. call her good and send it.
2good2Btru
Member
So just get on it huh Dustin, dont be scared. I'll keep that in mind.
outacntrl
Member
All the reman Kubota's I've replaced all had a tag on them that said do not idle engine so it idled long enough for me to check for leaks then went wide open while I set the steering and messed with the hydraulics.
:whs:....and seats the valves.
