CAC boots and clamps

[CurtisF]

I'm going to be working on my boost leaks soon, found two leak spots at two of the boots, and one intake plenum leaking.

Looking for some input here on new boots and some different clamps. Boots at the spider and intake plenums are an older set from Dieselsite. Boots at the intercooler are silicone (I'm running a 6.0L I/C). Boot clamps are all stock Ford clamps.

I've always had issues with blowing off the boots at the spider. It's gotten to the point now that one of the boots is sliced and leaking. It's holding on for dear life.

So I'm open for suggestions on a set of new boots and some better clamps, or even if double clamping has worked out. When I rip this apart and fix the leaks, I don't want to go back and chase down any more boost leaks or blown boots. I'm thinking about replacing all of the boots, even at the I/C, since one of those is sliced but not yet leaking.

A full kit that I can just order in one swoop would be ideal. Or I can piece together. I know Clay at Riffraff has a full set I can get, and I've heard good things about it. Or if there are other setups out there, I'm all ears. I'm seeing 40+ psi of boost now, so I need something that can handle that kind of pressure. Thanks.

 

[Dieselboy.]

It must be the tuning LOL. oke:

I have clays boots with double clamps. 10k miles on them with dozens of runs well into the 45-50psi of boost range. (knocks on wood)

When I installed them just spray a bit of cheapo hair spray on the pipe, helps it slide together easily (which can reduce tears) And acts as a glue for a last defense.

 

[CSIPSD]

Curtis...

Clay at RiffRaff has some of the best boots I have seen. When the time comes that is what I will be getting, and after installing several sets they are great and fit perfect.

Get a set of his billet plentums or at least the incerts and then use T clamps there.

Also loose all the spring loaded T clamps.

The only place I have double clamped ( and holds up to 50psi) is at the turbo outlet, that has more to do with the angle I have it at and the fact its a standard outlet.

 

[SDstroker]

T-clamps is where its at. I use some simple green to clean everything and seems to hold up really well.

 

[CurtisF]

Get a set of his billet plentums or at least the incerts and then use T clamps there.

Yeah I've already got a set of billet plenums. I knew when I installed them that there would be a possibility of a leak because one corner smeared the sealant as I was assembling it together. I boost tested it after that and it held. But now that I'm seeing higher boost numbers than when I first installed those plenums, it worked a leak in that spot. So I'll have to take them off and re-install them correctly.

Are Clay's clamps those springless t-clamps you're talking about Joe?

 

[CSIPSD]

Yes they are...

 

[CurtisF]

Yes they are...

Well then.... sweet Jesus. :blitzed:

 

[hawgdoctor]

Nothing but good things to say here about clays stuff. That's all I use aftermarket wise.
sent from the shop making things fly....

 

[dietoremain]

Riffraff billet intake plenums FTW.

 

[slowstroke]

Clamps http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=B9224-0356&Category_Code=STCV

hoses http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CACH5

problem solved

 

[TARM]

If you want to save money on hose and still get tough hose go to NAPA and pick up some 3" OTR(big rig) truck rad hose. Its thick, rigid, and very strong. Allows you to make them whatever length you find ideal. Nothing to worry about. Easy to get more if you need it. I know they handle 60psi with no issues. I cut it with my band saw to get nice even and smooth ends. Have seen it used on a number of the old school pulling tractors as well. I know I can not be the only person that uses this stuff.

As for t-bolt clamps; if a person is serious about wanting the best, most even seal and clamping force, then Mikalor brand are the best. Nothing I have seen comes close to touching these for even and total clamping force in a T-bolt. Not to mention over all quality. They are literally 2-3x the tq force and likely more in actual sealing pressure which is like 400+ psi for those in the 3" range to give you an idea. Other wise just pick up some Clampco. That is the brand McMaster Carr carries and IIRC is NAPA as well although for some reason I am thinking I saw "5 Star" there last time I was in the back rummaging thru the parts bins but I could be wrong. (Nice living in small towns where they will let you do that stuff.)


I know many loath worm clamps but the ones you typical see from auto parts and hardware stores are nothing like the top end ones such as those by ABA. Very different animal IMO. Beveled edges, full sleeves, much higher tq level. Over all worms have been shown to have more even clamping and sealing force lb for lb of tension from what I have read. The issue has always been total clamping force.

Maybe consider quick release for the intake side of the turbo (filter and intake tube). Will keep things sealed fine as there is no-where near the pressures positive or vacuum and makes it much faster to get things off and on since those tend to come off more frequently to do any work.

For the intake pleniums unless yours are leaking around the head or inlets have just been mangled pick up the billet inserts. They are a friction fit; at least mine were, which was very nice. You can then apply all the force you want. They have a small ridge that helps create a better seal. Sometimes changing out plenums can turn into a PITA. Then for some reason you end up with a leak ........ Not to mention extra cost. If you really need them because of condition or huge boost levels great if not.........Just my opinion

 

[CurtisF]

That's some good info there.

I went ahead and ordered the kit from Clay yesterday. The fun part will be tearing it all apart.... again. Oh well, it'll be nice to finally make some boost again.

 

[TARM]

The worst part is always the Y to plenum boots IMO. Good luck

 

[CurtisF]

The worst part is always the Y to plenum boots IMO. Good luck

I've had lots of practice with that part already

 

[Big Bore]

The worst part is always the Y to plenum boots IMO. Good luck

Especially with Beans billet plenums. I can't imagine fighting a really stiff boot on, new silicone boots were bad enough. I considered taking my plenums off and machining a bevel or radius on the outside edge. A two piece intake seems like it might help also, I know it would make some work easier by allowing removal of the compressor outlet piping without removing the Y. I wish we could buy just the compressor outlet elbow, or that someone would make one.

 

[rat49f6]

I always had luck doing one boot on the y And one on the oppisite plenum ...not sure if thats how everyone does it or not

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

 

[SDstroker]

:whs:

Then I start with the top of the wye facing towards the front of the motor. Then I rotate it upwards while pushing down. Confusing but works well for me. Sucks balls just pushing it down on from the top.

 

[CurtisF]

Well after many delays, finally got my truck fixed and the new boots put on.

I had 3 boost leaks that I found. Two at the boots (one coming loose, another sliced and tearing). The third leak was at the passenger's side plenum. I could see traces of some of that oily residue coming out of the plenum base. Sure enough, when I pulled it off, there was an inch and a half strip that had popped loose some time ago, and it was covered in oily residue.

Also found an oil leak and a fuel leak, both fixed now. While everything was apart I decided to delete my CCV mod and returned it to stock. It was trapping some oil, but not all, so I figured it was a waste of time. I've always had oil coming out of the CCV since I first did that mod many years ago. Moved it to a trap to keep oil from dripping, now I'm back to stock. Just got tired of messing with it.

New boots holding well so far. Took it out for a test drive and ripped it. Much snappier response, boost comes up quicker, lower EGT's, and less smoke. Fair to say my job here is done...... for now.