Colt cams stage 1 or 2?

sonic blue l

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Had a lifter fail so I need a cam. I would go with a stage one, but there is an extra charge due to core damage. Stage 2 requires no core and is a new cam vs a reground stock cam.
Colt claims the ford cam design leads to lifter failure, so I'm thinking a cam is a good idea for that reason alone.
I don't plan on fly cutting pistons, on the fence about ih pistons. Heads and block have never been touched.
Will get Hamilton valve springs.

Anyway truck is for the most part a daily driver, will never see a track, but will be pulling 13g lbs in the summer. Might add a 71,72 or 73 atmo.

Looking for opinions on my cam choices and even pistons.
Thanks.
 

ncollins64

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Imo I think fly cutting Pistons is always a good idea if your that far into it anyways. And for what it's worth I'll be doing the colt billet stage 2 with the sideaction diesel lifters. Just my .02
 

2wd-fire

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How many miles on truck when lifter failed?


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sootie

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do pistons for sure-they are a major weak spot on these trucks. i recommend fly cutting and delipping the pistons for insurance if you are adding a cam of any sort.
 

B585Ford

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What everyone else said. Since you are in this deep, do it once and do it right...especially as ncollins said being so far away from home. Stock pistons are just too damn unpredictable.
 

Jbird

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When all this was explained to me i was told that if your block was not decked to far and you check your piston protrusion before going back together then you will know if you need fly cut or not. But i still have them going in mine anyways. Like everyone said "insurance" lol
 

Black AOD

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Imo I think fly cutting Pistons is always a good idea if your that far into it anyways. And for what it's worth I'll be doing the colt billet stage 2 with the sideaction diesel lifters. Just my .02

Yes. Machined, fly cut, and coated

:whs:

I'm doing this exact setup as well on my 6.4. Go stage 2 for your situation good sir.
 

sonic blue l

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How many miles on truck when lifter failed?


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Its actually from a spare engine that I bought to repair another engine that had a bad fuel system. This engine had around 230,000 km (143,000 miles).

It does show that maintenance does not play a role in lifter failure. As the lifter failure engine had no wear to rocker arms, but bad lifter. Other engine with fuel system issue, had worn off rocker arms, yet lifters were fine. The fuel system engine was around 100,000 miles, with very low hours. Just not maintained.

Now what I have found that kills lifters is over revving the engine. aka programming that likes 4,000 rpm shift points. This is only an opinion, but I feel at high rpm the lifter is bouncing, thus causing the needles in the roller to be pounded on until they fracture. They still fail stock, but much more so on high rpm tunes. Thus I'm thinking either stronger springs, or springs and a cam to prevent the issue. (hopefully).
 

sonic blue l

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So those who have installed a cam, i'm guessing the old cam gear is pressed onto the original cam (as I don't see a retainment bolt for the gear.) So do you press it off and press it on the new cam? I've also seen places weld the cam gear on to the after market cam. Just curious on the cam gear install aspect.

Thanks.

my heads and block have never been machined, still on the fence about pistons, ive had many a 6.4 apart and have never seen a 6.4 piston cracked. (well unless its in pieces in the pan, but that doesn't count). Now ive seen 7.3's crack and a 6l. (don't really deal with highly modified vehicles though, just tuners that pop head gaskets) biggest killer ive seen of 6.4 is lifters (from tuners that over rev, a lot of edge racing once that like to rev at 4g on level 2 and up.)

Just debating if I should put a cam in and then check, but then it would be a pain to take it apart to put pistons if I did not have sufficient clearance.
 
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sonic blue l

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one more question. Anyone with gear head tuning tow? and tow in tow/haul?

Reason I ask, is if towing with h&s minimaxx on default tune, level " tow " with trans in tow/haul it likes to down shift and rev the **** out of the engine. (4,000 rpm), i'd have to quickly kick it out of tow haul then back in. It was in the mountains on stepper decent, but im not a fan of engine/trans breaking at 4,000 rpm. Just curious if gear head does that.
Thanks
 

sootie

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if my memory serves me correctly, H&S files don't change anything in the tow/haul strategy so i wouldn't use tow/haul at anything above stock power.

as far as gearhead goes, the tow/haul button locks out 5th and 5th TC lock so you are limited to what speed you can go.
 

B585Ford

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I run GH tunes including both his Tow tune and Race tune on my H&S and love both of them, but since I am the TCM and my tranny shifting is always flawless (not that I am bragging of course), I can't help you as to what RPM yours would shift at.
 

Kind

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I never fly cut my hd pistons and I have a colt stage 2. No issues... So far.

I understand the "insurance" reasons however.
 

DWhite

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I tow all the time with my GH tow setting. I tow anything from 12-18k.
The only time I really use the Tow/Haul button is if I'm going up a steep grade then I push it to downshift, to keep it in the higher RPMs and to keep my egts down. It also helps keep it within the powerband.

I agree it gets kind of aggressive on the downshifting so I rarely use tow/haul to slow the truck down. I did figure out if you play with it enough you can figure out what speeds you need to use the tow/haul so it isn't as hardcore on slowing the truck down.
 

NY_Mott

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So those who have installed a cam, i'm guessing the old cam gear is pressed onto the original cam (as I don't see a retainment bolt for the gear.) So do you press it off and press it on the new cam? I've also seen places weld the cam gear on to the after market cam. Just curious on the cam gear install aspect.

Thanks.

my heads and block have never been machined, still on the fence about pistons, ive had many a 6.4 apart and have never seen a 6.4 piston cracked. (well unless its in pieces in the pan, but that doesn't count). Now ive seen 7.3's crack and a 6l. (don't really deal with highly modified vehicles though, just tuners that pop head gaskets) biggest killer ive seen of 6.4 is lifters (from tuners that over rev, a lot of edge racing once that like to rev at 4g on level 2 and up.)

Just debating if I should put a cam in and then check, but then it would be a pain to take it apart to put pistons if I did not have sufficient clearance.

Shop just told me I have a dead (#8 IIRC) cylinder and my lifters and valve train are in good condition. all I was running is the canned h&S tunes. I have done a lot of reading about pistons and I really believe its a good idea. just my .02
 

sonic blue l

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Yeah pistons are probaly good if I'm that far into it.
I've seen a few pictures of different pistons. They don't all look the same.
For example I want these:
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/...250_international_threat_part_2/photo_01.html

Not these:
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/international-heavy-duty-ceramic-coated-6-4l-piston-set/

Yet they both claim to be maxforce7 pistons.
If I'm spending the money I want the ones that I want, lol.

Also, what's the opinion on ceramic coating?
Thanks
 

sonic blue l

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I never fly cut my hd pistons and I have a colt stage 2. No issues... So far.

I understand the "insurance" reasons however.

Stock pistons?
Did you measure clearance or just wing it?

I know colt says it should be ok, but they recommend to check.
Do u know how the cam gears are swaped?
 

Kind

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Stock pistons?

Did you measure clearance or just wing it?



I know colt says it should be ok, but they recommend to check.

Do u know how the cam gears are swaped?


HD pistons.

Yes the clearances were checked.

Motor has seen 4700rpm under load and no issue.

This is by no means my recommendation tho.
 
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